Steering shake

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damper should not make a noise and no the pads being tight is not the problem. If it was ok before fitting the damper why not fit the old one back on and try?
 
walter2004 said:
damper should not make a noise and no the pads being tight is not the problem. If it was ok before fitting the damper why not fit the old one back on and try?
Click to expand...

So you don't think the wheel being significantly tighter than the other, will have an impact in the problem?

Well i had already thought about that, and seeing as i'm the kind of bloke that doesn't chuck very much away, you would think that that would be possible.However on this occasion i decided to chuck it, but the most annoying thing is that i thought about keeping it. flaming typical!!!!
So the only other option is to get another 1, and if it's still the same i supose i'll be left with a spare damper!!!
 
Can't see that wheel bearings being too tight would cause a wobble, but why are they too tight, I'd set them up properly or you'll end up replacing them. If you haven't got the gear to do it properly, then tighten the first nut finger tight and tighten the locknut up. When you've got them done you should just be able to feel the end float when you push/pull the wheel hub.

I'd be surprised if you could hear the noise of the fluid going back and forth in the damper. If you take it off and try pushing the piston in and out it should take the same amount of pressure for each stroke.
 
That was how i did adjust the bearing, my only thought is, if it tightened up when i was tightening the locknut up. I'll have a look at that later then.

I'll whip the damper off, and check the resistance then, thanks again for your help, i'll keep you posted of my findings.
 
Well sorry to sound like moanin mertil!!!!

Had a look at the damper, and it definately isn't good, the resistance is anyhow.
So went out and got another, the resistance on this is alot lot better, but it still doesn't feel 100%, it feels like on either stroke that it slips now and again. If i pulled it really really slowly then i don't think it would slip. Will this be ok or should i take it back, or just try the dam thing and see what happens?
 
Cheers Grunt, seems alot lot better now, unfortunately the problem is still there.
I had a look at the steering column UJ's, and the one that is right at the back of the engine bay, that then goes up to the steering wheel, looks like it has got play in it. Should it move slightly or be rigid?
 
Well just done my radius arm bushes and it's still doing it.
I'm running out of ideas, can't feel any play in anything else.
A while ago my power steering pump gasket failed, so made a new one for it. It seems to be leaking again, so it will obviously be loosing pressure, doe's anyone know or think the pump could be causing the steering shake that i'm experiencing?
 
Hi JAC.

Had a few steering wobble woes myself.

Firstly tightening bearings is a short term fix usually. I have done this before, even completely cleaning and regreasing both bearings, and been most upset when a few months later they need doing again. I always found when the bearings were replaced they stayed fixed, except when you leave it too long on a loose bearing and the stub axle gets worn. What happens is the surface the hub seal runs on gets a groove on it and water gets in, along with grit and grime, turning the grease into a grinding paste which nackered the new bearings. It will also make the shoulder the bearings sit on longer by wearing away the lip the seal sits on, which means even new bearings wont take up the slack. DOH. New stub axles, bearings and seals fitted and regreased after every wet off-roading event. Havent had a problem since.

Is there any play in the steering box itself? There is an adjuster on top of the steering box, next to the bleed screw. Dont over tighten it or you may damage the box.

Also check all the bolts mounting the steering box to the chassis to see if they have come loose and check to see if the drop arm is still tight on the steering box.
 
stodd said:
New stub axles, bearings and seals fitted and regreased after every wet off-roading event. Havent had a problem since.

Is there any play in the steering box itself? There is an adjuster on top of the steering box, next to the bleed screw. Dont over tighten it or you may damage the box.

Also check all the bolts mounting the steering box to the chassis to see if they have come loose and check to see if the drop arm is still tight on the steering box.
Click to expand...

Are the stub axles a hard job to replace?
How do you know if there is play in the box? the way i checked it is by standing outside and watched the wheels as i turned the steering wheel, to see how long it took the wheels to react, is that the right way of doing it?

I'll check all the bolts you've suggested
Do you think the power steering pump leaking slightly could cause the problems?

Thanks
 
A leaking pump could cause tight spots in the steering due to air getting in, but probably not a wobble.

Changing stub axles is easy. Remove the hub as if you were changing the wheel bearings, then undo the six bolts holding the stub axle to the axle casting. Make sure you get new hub seals to put in, not worth fitting old ones back in it.

You're checking steering box in the right way, you dont want too much play before the wheels start moving. about an 1/8 turn on the steering wheel max i would say
 
There didn't feel to be any play on the box then.

That's what i thought about the pump, it does feel a little stiff but didn't think it would cause the wobble.

If i checked for play after tightening the wheel bearings, and there was still play in them does that mean the bearings are fooked?
Are the stub axles expensive?
 
If you get them from the right place you can pick stub axles up from about £60, although land rover want astronomical amounts for them.
 
Hi

Just to let you all know,

Had my swivels done new pins and new shims and set up. It seems to have sorted the initial problems, still feels abit weird, but i've noticed abit of play in steering box, so hopefully it's just down to that now.

Thanks for your help
 
Do the wheels still have a difference in effort to spin them? If so one or more of the pistons in the brake caliper are sticking. Over time this will 'polish' the brake pads and cause them to squeal.

regards

Dave
 
Not really sure, not had a look at them for a while.
I'll have another look when i get a chance.

Thanks
 
Did you ever sort this out? I had the same problem. incredible vibration when passing over a bump at 60 or over, but fine on a good road surface at 80. Did the steering damper like you, but no improvement, the steering box adjustment has put it right, even though I didnt think there was much play in the steering until I raised the front of the vehicle off the ground .and checked as told on this forum. Might work for you if your still having trouble.
 
No haven't had chance to look at it, but i'm sure theres play in it.
It's on the to do list!!!!:D
But your reply is definatley positive towards it, so thanks
 
How long did it take to do the steering box adjustment and was it easy?
did you have to put it on ramps or axle jacks? any special tools or requirements?
non mechanical person (me) will be doing the job if able.
 
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