Disco 2 Steering Play - Likely Fixes

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Intestinalworm said:
Okay, think I will definitely:

(1) Change the steering damper
(2) Adjust the steering box

Apart from the 4 x BJs (leave for someone else to fix when they eventually give up the ghost!), is there anything else that is likely to cause the problems (little bit of play and a pull when hitting a bump)?
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That's the way, to do it, leave it there in the morning and pickup in the after noon all done and it your lucky the vehicles been washed. :)
 
discool said:
Monroe are OEM for the factory fit damper along With Armstrong, the other three u mention are competition based although all damper manufactures catalogues now show a competition option.

17 years is certainly a good life considering the use they have.
I had to replace the unit after 5 years on my RR around 45000 miles the steering wheel 'shimmered' when crossing a bumps on the Tarmac, so much for genuine factory parts, the replacement was £12 back then from a main LR dealer parts dept.
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What you describe sounds exactly like what I have. Might replace with a Monroe then!
 
Intestinalworm said:
Remember my dad changing ball joints as a kid once - he was cursing and swearing! I did notice (what I now know after checking out YouTube just now) a pickle-fork still in his garage. Anyway, a bit too heavy duty for me for now I think with tools/press required! There's no knocking or clunking from the front end so I'm assuming the BJs are still okay! Are the BJs sealed or do they need occasional greasing?
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As I think you might be able to see from the pics in the link, not normally, if ever. No niplples.
The ones I have sitting here by my chair are not greasable. Only changing them cos the boots is fu cked. Mind you, might find they are fu cked when I get to the point of getting them off. I won't be using a pickle fork, I have got a press tool which should do the job, combined with litres of freeing off fluid and a fu ck off big hammer.
 
Okay, ordered a steering damper locally (Melbourne, Australia) and will pick-up on Monday and fit it - too expensive to buy from UK and pay for freight! It's a Britpart, but I was assured it is fine for road driving. The only other option was a Terrafirma at almost double the price. Hopefully this should fix the slight pull I feel to one side when I hit a small bump on the road.

Second issue is fixing the slight steering wheel play by adjusting the steering box (RHD - believe easier then to access than LHD). Now I checked RAVE (p.57-17) and it talks about using tool LRT-57-036 to break taper joint and release drag link? Is that necessary - I was lead to believe it's just a straight-forward adjustment from the top of the steering box?

I had a look down into the driver's side fender end of the engine bay and at first glance couldn't see the top of the steering box or steering column universal - do I need to remove the battery/tray or the coolant overflow tank?
 
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Intestinalworm said:
Okay, ordered a steering damper locally (Melbourne, Australia) and will pick-up on Monday and fit it - too expensive to buy from UK and pay for freight! It's a Britpart, but I was assured it is fine for road driving. The only other option was a Terrafirma at almost double the price. Hopefully this should fix the slight pull I feel to one side when I hit a small bump on the road.

Second issue is fixing the slight steering wheel play by adjusting the steering box (RHD - believe easier then to access than LHD). Now I checked RAVE (p.57-17) and it talks about using tool LRT-57-036 to break taper joint and release drag link? Is that necessary - I was lead to believe it's just a straight-forward adjustment from the top of the steering box?

I had a look down into the driver's side fender end of the engine bay and at first glance couldn't see the top of the steering box or steering column universal - do I need to remove the battery/tray or the coolant overflow tank?
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Only have right hand drive so don't know how much it affects all this but other posts I have read say it is easier if you jack the body up and let the axle fall away down.
If you still have the soundproffing protection on then take it off and throw it away, if you wish.
The Special tool mentioned seems to be just an ordinary ball joint splitter which you should be able to botaain cheaply
see
https://www.google.com/search?sourc...pAhUBaRUIHfENDhUQsAR6BAgKEAE&biw=1366&bih=657
Don't know if this is much help. But you ought to be able to obtaint he splitter at any car bits place. Don't know how close you are to Melbun or any other sizeable homestead!
Best of luck!
 
Intestinalworm said:
Okay, ordered a steering damper locally (Melbourne, Australia) and will pick-up on Monday and fit it - too expensive to buy from UK and pay for freight! It's a Britpart, but I was assured it is fine for road driving. The only other option was a Terrafirma at almost double the price. Hopefully this should fix the slight pull I feel to one side when I hit a small bump on the road.

Second issue is fixing the slight steering wheel play by adjusting the steering box (RHD - believe easier then to access than LHD). Now I checked RAVE (p.57-17) and it talks about using tool LRT-57-036 to break taper joint and release drag link? Is that necessary - I was lead to believe it's just a straight-forward adjustment from the top of the steering box?

I had a look down into the driver's side fender end of the engine bay and at first glance couldn't see the top of the steering box or steering column universal - do I need to remove the battery/tray or the coolant overflow tank?
Click to expand...
you dont need a ball joint splitters to adjust the box but you do need to ensure steering box isin its center position, theres a slot and hole on rear of the drop arm ,a suitable sized drill bit will do
then you slacken the lock nut and wind the allen screw clockwise whilst rocking the steering box input shaft till you can feel any free play just removed,box must be centered when adjusting as it has a center tight spot and increasing play as you travel to either lock,soo if you remove play not centered you would have great pressure on the shafts as box was moved through the center position
 
jamesmartin said:
you dont need a ball joint splitters to adjust the box but you do need to ensure steering box isin its center position, theres a slot and hole on rear of the drop arm ,a suitable sized drill bit will do
then you slacken the lock nut and wind the allen screw clockwise whilst rocking the steering box input shaft till you can feel any free play just removed,box must be centered when adjusting as it has a center tight spot and increasing play as you travel to either lock,soo if you remove play not centered you would have great pressure on the shafts as box was moved through the center position
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Looks like both Rave and Haynes don't really have a clue! I have just checked and they do both say remove the drag link. So OP and anyone else doesn't need to do that? This would make the job easier. Maybe they think amateur mechanics cannot sense for movement and freeplay. Have to confess I have never done mine as there has never been any free play.:)
 
Okay, removed the original (since late 2003) steering damper and replaced with the new Britpart one. Checked the original LR genuine steering damper once removed - has even resistance across its range (same as new Britpart unit) - perfect! Ah well, not a big loss (AUD 75), as a I now have a spare genuine part! The Britpart unit seems to be almost visually identical (and as far as weight is concerned) to the original LR genuine by the way - only obvious difference is a Britpart sticker and an embossed "062 22/F/P"; the Britpart box it came in mentioned "C of O - China".

The original LR Genuine steering damper had the following embossed on it:

QHH 100001
LAND ROVER
MADE IN SPAIN
61705 2KD

Checked underneath the front with the steering components and all appears okay - nothing loose and nothing that looks out of order with the steering.

Will look at adjusting the steering box now to remove that wee bit of play in the steering wheel. Must admit, I still can't see the steering box adjustment nut - suspect it is therefore hard to get to?!

Will rotate rear tyres from back to front later on and then check for any play on wheels when jacked up to see if wheel bearings are 100%? Might also look at getting a wheel alignment and/or wheel balance (maybe one of those wheel weights has been knocked off).

Is it worth going to a place like Pedders for an "independent" steering/suspension assessment (advertised No Obligation check for AUD28)? Anywhere else anyone can recommend in Melbourne (Aust)? Bit wary as some of these places are obviously very keen to condemn perfectly good parts in favour of selling new parts and charging for labour. Prefer an independent assessment and then attempting any work myself if possible (not keen on ball joints though from what I've heard - they seem to be quite difficult to replace).

Maybe I just put up with the little bit of play and pull to one side when the camber of the road changes?

Any thoughts?
 
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to check for play it helps to get someone to vigorously rock steering wheel whilst you hold the various arms ,rods play will be felt or seen
 
jamesmartin said:
to check for play it helps to get someone to vigorously rock steering wheel whilst you hold the various arms ,rods play will be felt or seen
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...and ball joints, as in an MOT test. Seems obvious, but to someone used to working on their own??? (one of the few times wifey helps me, she hates it!)
Also, if they are any good, then the person "at the wheel" may well be able to say when the steering freeplay is getting smaller. (Sadly wifey wouldn't be able to do that, above her pay grade!!!:(:(:(:rolleyes:)
 
Decided to get a wheel alignment - after a fair bit of reading I thought it might be that the caster is out of adjustment and causing my problem. Everything is fine on a straight road until I hit a bend with camber, and also when there are are right to left undulations across the road. Was reading this:

Excessive caster will cause the steer wheels to aggressively follow the road camber, even to the point of pulling the vehicle down into the depressions caused by traffic on the road. This will cause the vehicle to wander across the road making the driver work hard to control the vehicle.

This explains exactly what happens at the moment - "aggressively" follows road camber. Will get a 4-wheel alignment (will give "KMart/mycar" a go) and will take wheel alignment specs with me (will have to check RAVE) just to be sure!

Didn't go ahead with the "Pedders" $28 steering/suspension/brakes check - read so many horror stories about "Pedders" on "productreview.com" and the "Whirlpool Forums"!
 
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Intestinalworm said:
Decided to get a wheel alignment - after a fair bit of reading I thought it might be that the caster is out of adjustment and causing my problem. Everything is fine on a straight road until I hit a bend with camber, and also when there are are right to left undulations across the road. Was reading this:

Excessive caster will cause the steer wheels to aggressively follow the road camber, even to the point of pulling the vehicle down into the depressions caused by traffic on the road. This will cause the vehicle to wander across the road making the driver work hard to control the vehicle.

This explains exactly what happens at the moment - "aggressively" follows road camber. Will get a 4-wheel alignment (will give "KMart/mycar" a go) and will take wheel alignment specs with me (will have to check RAVE) just to be sure!

Didn't go ahead with the "Pedders" $28 steering/suspension/brakes check - read so many horror stories about "Pedders" on "productreview.com" and the "Whirlpool Forums"!
Click to expand...

As far as I know on a D2 you can only adjust toe at the front. If camber or castor is off then something is bent or worn and needs replacing. No adjustments can be made to the rear wheels. Let us know your findings.
 
Michalis Karatzis said:
As far as I know on a D2 you can only adjust toe at the front. If camber or castor is off then something is bent or worn and needs replacing. No adjustments can be made to the rear wheels. Let us know your findings.
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I think you're right - only toe in / toe out can be adjusted in a wheel alignment - read that after posting!

Interesting re the rear wheels, as I remember being told by a mechanic that if I had a 4WD it would need a four-wheel alignment?! Anyway, tyres all good (wheels balanced) - no uneven tyre wear! Adjusted steering box and fitted a new steering damper (the original old one seemed good as new when I took it off though!). Anyway, pulls right or left into undulations on the road or when there is a cambered road - quite noticeable; steering on flat, smooth roads is perfect with no pull either way; there is also no pull when braking.

Now I'm confused, if only toe in / toe out is adjusted during a wheel alignment, what do they do with the back wheels, and what could be causing this issue? Looked underneath and nothing stuck out - nothing bent, and bushes, as far as I could see, looked fine? Thought I was onto the problem when I read about caster (castor)!

I believe these are the RAVE specs for the D2:

Castor is: + 2deg 22' left
+ 2deg 41' right
Camber: + 0deg 53' left
- 0deg 05' right
Toe out: +0.8mm left
+0.9mm right

If only front wheel toe in/toe out is adjustable then not sure why there are specs in RAVE?

Read that tyre pressures can have an effect - will check front are 28psi and swap them around to see if that helps. Anything else a likely culprit - I only know the basics when it comes to steering/suspension and I really only have a standard socket set and axle stands.
 
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Okay, mechanic at mycar told me over the phone that with the Disco 2 all they can really do is adjust the toe in / toe out on the front - nothing else (fits with what I know now). He recommended as a first step to run 28psi all-round on tyres and see how that goes. Will try this first and then re-assess.
 
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