Steering Help!?

Hi everyone, this is my first post on here and wonder if anyone here can help. I am working on my Freelander 2. The power steering pipes are leaking. I changed the main line but the bottom pipes that attach to the rack are leaking too, I have new ones and went to change but the torx screw that holds it in place is seized on! I can’t get it to move at all! I have tried to hit it a few times with a bar and hammer and had a t40 socket on it but no movement at all. Covered it all in WD40 and left for a day but still no joy! The head is now starting to round! is my best next step to drill the head off? I can’t get in with grips and don’t want to heat as it would damage the rack!
If anyone has had the same problem and can tell me what they did to rectify I would be most appreciative and would owe you a beer!

HI Aj.
I presume you are talking about the bolt that holds this below.
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I had the same problem the PAS pipe corrodes and pin hole appear which in turn starts to make the power steering whine, and go stiff which you have most likely found out, also when you do this job it is best to replace the power steering reservoir, the built in filter is not changeable.
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The torx bolt is a night mare due to corrosion also.
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Remove the bracket holding the two pipes together.
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Remove the factory clip from the rubber hose connected to the same bracket that the torx bolts is holding.
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Also i cut through the pipe which gave me that little bit of extra room to help remove the bolt.
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You can also unclip the rubber hoses so they can be pushed out of the way, it helps you to get a small chisel on the round part of the bolt to tap it round you can also tap the bracket it may loosen the rust, try knocking a socket onto the bolt as well anything to help get a better grip than that nasty torx.
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It will come loose eventually
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Once I got mine removed I cleaned all the area with a spray of carb cleaner, and rags, I used a proper bolt to refit the new pipe work, and a new jubilee clip for the rubber hose.
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Not a job I would like to do in an hurry again, treat the exposed new pipe with preventive rust treatment.
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hope the photo's help

Thanks for that, great idea and so good you have the pics. I gave up for the day as it’s our anniversary as supposedly working on the cars isn’t her idea of fun. Left it soaking in WD40 overnight and will get back on it tomorrow. First thing I’ll try is the chisel like you did. Like I said I have chapped it all over and had tension on the torx bit while hitting the bolt and bracket. No movement at all.
Do you know what thread the bolt is?
When you got it out did it look like it could have been drilled (in case the chisel doesn’t work)

Again thanks for the advise.

If I remember right it is a 6mm X 20mm in length so drilling may be very difficult, I am sure you will get it removed this time round, try a socket knocked onto the damaged bolt.

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link that may also be helpful
https://www.freel2.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=367200#367200

Thanks arctic, got it all done today. No joy with the chisel and so I knocked on a 12 point socket. Was still a nightmare until the head snapped off ‍
Managed to get the rest out with grips. So that’s new lower and upper pipes along with a new reservoir like you suggested. All cleaned up and taken out for a run and all great again.
Again thanks for the help and advise, now just got to finish bits on the rangie and I may eventually get a chance to start a project classic Subaru I bought months ago!

I’m definitely owe you a beer!

Hi Aj.
Great to hear you got an horrible job solved in the end, I am sure your FL will drive as it should using the PAS from now on, onwards and upwards as they say, good luck with the Subaru.

How do you get the pipe off rubber to metal section behind the wheel