Steering column locked

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Hanz

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Hi all, I have a 59 reg manual freelander 2 HSE TD4, the key fob has always been a bit sticky going in and out, but now the car won’t start 🤯. Keeps clicking under left hand glove box and message on the dash says steering column locked - even though it’s not!! AA came out and bypassed the immobiliser to start it, drove home and now dead! It did this before and the AA cleared a number of error codes and it was fine for 6 weeks, and a second time when I put the spare key in and it started, but now nothing! Can’t get the AA out again as they won’t touch it for 4 more weeks, it’s doing my head in 😔
 

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If the LCD is displaying steering column locked but it's not, then it's likely an issue with the column lock itself. This is pretty common, so common in fact that there's an emulator available to eliminate the issue. The emulator needs to be plugged into the column lock plug, and the problem should go away.
The alternative is to remove the lock assembly, and have it repaired or replaced, both of which will cost more than fitting the emulator.
 
If the LCD is displaying steering column locked but it's not, then it's likely an issue with the column lock itself. This is pretty common, so common in fact that there's an emulator available to eliminate the issue. The emulator needs to be plugged into the column lock plug, and the problem should go away.
The alternative is to remove the lock assembly, and have it repaired or replaced, both of which will cost more than fitting the emulator.
Thank you, is it one of these?
 

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Thank you, is it one of these?
Yes. You just plug it onto the steering lock wiring IIRC. However you have to be absolutely 100% sure the steering lock isn't going to activate accidentally while driving, or remove the lock altogether.
 
Yes. You just plug it onto the steering lock wiring IIRC. However you have to be absolutely 100% sure the steering lock isn't going to activate accidentally while driving, or remove the lock altogether.
Hi everyone,

I’m new here and have been researching this forum for help with an issue I’ve been experiencing with my 2009 Freelander 2. First, thank you for the information shared here—it’s been incredibly useful.

Based on advice I found here and on YouTube, I purchased an emulator and had my mechanic fit it. Initially, it worked well, but after about five dashboard warnings for “Steering Column Locked,” my key stopped working entirely.

I had to tow the car to another garage. After sharing my research with them, they hesitated to work on it, citing electrical issues. They ran a free diagnostics for their own investigations but I do not have that report. However, it showed an unknown fault related to the emulator.

Eventually, they referred me to a key car specialist who identified the problem. He replaced the emulator, explaining that an improperly fitted or loose emulator could cause the issues. After this, the car worked fine, until the warning returned, but only with my original key. Interestingly, when I use my spare key, there are no issues.

Here’s my main concern: I’ve read here that it’s essential to ensure the steering lock isn’t activated. My mechanic, who fitted the first emulator, insists the lock can’t activate with the bypass in place. However, I’m not entirely confident, as the key specialist (who replaced the emulator) advised me to consult with my mechanic for confirmation.

I feel like I’m going in circles. While the steering wheel no longer locks without a key in place (confirming the anti-theft lock is removed), I can’t shake the concern that the lock could still activate while driving. I’ve even called Land Rover UK, but I haven’t been able to speak directly to a mechanic for clarification.

If anyone here can confirm whether the emulator truly prevents the steering lock from activating or provide advice on how to explain this to my mechanic, I’d be grateful.

Thank you in advance!
 
The emulator plugs into the same harness connector that the factory lock is connected too. So with the emulator plugged in, there no way the lock can activate, and if it was faulty, there's no way it can return a faulty signal to the vehicle's electronic systems. I suspect the issue is with either the key dock or the emulator, however other modules in the system can't be completely excluded as the cause of the issue.

If it were me, I'd have the steering lock repaired (it's normally just a damaged solder connection inside, or dried up lubricant), or have a new one fitted and configured using the correct diagnostic equipment.
 
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