Steering box adjustment - tight bits

I'm trying to remove some of the slack on my steering wheel by adjusting the steering box. After a little effort and application of a 1m breaker bar I managed to free the main 3/4" nut. Trouble is the alien key bit is the middle now just moves along with the bolt. I'm hesitant to apply similar force to that for fear of rounding the torx splines. Any advise of how to free it up? It's currently have GT85 applied every few hours in the hope it'll work its way into the joint.

Ben

Clear off any crud, soak with PlusGas for a night or two...and use a little heat [MapGas], then it should crack. Note, GT85 is no good as a penetrant, it's a PTFE lube spray.

I know GT85 is far from ideal. Turns out I'm out of WD40 and can't just pop to the local hardware shop.
Not heard of PlusGas. Time for some Google-Foo.
Thanks.

Wd40 is not much better either.

Flossie said:

Wd40 is not much better either.

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Of no use whatsoever - the clue's in the name; Water Displacement [recipe#] 40

You will get some good guidance here, I did but only came to the site after I wrecked the hex!
By that time I had dropped the pump, drilled out the hex and inserted a self tapping screw with Araldite.
After replacing the o ring at the top of the pump, solving the leak that was the cause of my meddling, I adjusted the play on my bench before refitting.
It was then that I turned to Landyzone and received excellent advice and answers to my queries; most reassuring.
I would not rush into doing anything drastic other than seeking solutions from your fellow members.
Perhaps my only contribution is to say that if you do manage to wreck your hex, all is not lost!
Removing a steering pump is not that difficult, if I can do it anyone can, but not preferable to satisfactorily freeing the adjuster nut in situ but certainly better than forking out for a replacement unit without trying.
Hope all goes well.
Graham

Remove said bolt and locknut, hold bolt with you pinkies and tap locknut with a hammer many time (lightll!) then nut in vice and turn allen key head.

lynall said:

Remove said bolt and locknut, hold bolt with you pinkies and tap locknut with a hammer many time (lightll!) then nut in vice and turn allen key head.

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I'm not sure about the following cos it was years ago when I had a similar issue but on a 3 bolt box.
The adjuster bolt won't screw all the way out to remove because of 'something' on the inside preventing it.
Was years ago though...

I had a similar experience with mine. The adjuster bolt assembly was loosely, but securely held to the shaft. The only way I could access the interior was to wind the head of the box off the bolt's thread.

My 4 bolt box is the same Flossie,it would not come all the way out.

Flossie said:

I'm not sure about the following cos it was years ago when I had a similar issue but on a 3 bolt box.
The adjuster bolt won't screw all the way out to remove because of 'something' on the inside preventing it.
Was years ago though...

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the adjusting screw is fastened to the sector shaft on all the boxes

My memory is reasonably intact then

Flossie said:

I'm not sure about the following cos it was years ago when I had a similar issue but on a 3 bolt box.
The adjuster bolt won't screw all the way out to remove because of 'something' on the inside preventing it.
Was years ago though...

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Weirdly I adjust them all the time at work, yet have never removed the bolt as never seen a seized one, so was assuming it just carreid on winding out, incorrectly it seems.

if you wind it far enough out sector shaft will jam in the box top and nut unscrew,though if your using a breaker bar something might bust

I was kinda hoping the nut and hex bolt could be removed to a vise and coerced into divorce, but it seems like that's not an option. I'll wait for the plusgas to arrive and see if that helps. Thanks for the advice so far.

I think the torx splines will shear of first. Either way is not good.

Benny_Boy said:

I think the torx splines will shear of first. Either way is not good.

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wind the nut anti clockwise