Hicap phill
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Sharp metal edge?
Steep learning curve
- Thread starter resto_d1
- Start date
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neilly
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Paper cut?
Cheers
Cheers
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
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Tiger?
Leopard but close!
Spot1
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Good effort!! How many stitches?!
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The first of many 
I too am complacent of the whizzy whirry things and often regret it!
I too am complacent of the whizzy whirry things and often regret it!
Would you recommend Phil? Now seems madness to not get some decent gloves but not sure which are worth going for? Don't mind buying decent ones if they'll give a second to act. Was far too complacentGet scrubbing.... get some
Mechanix gloves. Yep expensive but this don't happen
Hicap phill
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Gloves... go the local safety shop & try some on. You will need a few styles
Ones that don't burn when welding
Ones that don't burn when grinding
Ones that you can pick/hold the steel while fabrication takes place.
& don't forget decent safety glasses, it's not good having metal removed from your eye
Ones that don't burn when welding
Ones that don't burn when grinding
Ones that you can pick/hold the steel while fabrication takes place.
& don't forget decent safety glasses, it's not good having metal removed from your eye
thanks Phil. I can get all PPE from the tool man at work - he comes round and I can pick stuff out the catalogue which is handed. I'll ask him to bring in some sets. I needed welding gloves anyway. My welding helmet actually doubles up for grinding which Is good - has a grinding only switch on.
My sender cover was rotten through and I need a 27mm socket prior to doing anymore on car (never ever lend tools out!). So, I decided to practice fab and welding work. It's never going to be precision engineering but if it' fit for purpose I'm happy
Few more welds to do tomorrow then I'll sand off a bit and seal up.
Few more welds to do tomorrow then I'll sand off a bit and seal up.
Back on it for another eve today. Shock gaitor was full of what was like wet postcrete. Whipped out spring by removing little retaining bracket. Couldn't work out how to remove the dislocation cones? A wafer thin spanner? Also how do you remove bottom shock bolt as shock spins? Well happy with how easy things are to take apart - I think it's worth doing a axle overhaul whilst boot floor is out. Few bushes I've seen I'd like to change
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clamp shock tube with exhaust clamp and a bar.
neilly
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As above, or use an oil filter wrench to hold it.
Cheers
Cheers
So f*****g rusty!!!
I feel like this is going to be pretty much all replaced at the rear. Thanks for tip on filter wrench - got there in end with it.
Under the perch seems solid touch wood. Around the shock mount looks almost dented and needs a patch. Looks like I may need a patch under bump stop too. @dieseldog69 do you know how the crush tubes are held in place? I'd obviously want to cut a section which will involve more than one of them...
I feel like this is going to be pretty much all replaced at the rear. Thanks for tip on filter wrench - got there in end with it.
Under the perch seems solid touch wood. Around the shock mount looks almost dented and needs a patch. Looks like I may need a patch under bump stop too. @dieseldog69 do you know how the crush tubes are held in place? I'd obviously want to cut a section which will involve more than one of them...
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Not too bad but that pitting is deep!!!
Strap wrench on the shock body, the dislocation cones are a nut and bolt affair and I got mine on with a couple of ring spanners, you should have quite easy access from inside with the floor out
You really are going to have to cut that bit out around the top shock mounts, too thin for my liking, those end plates on the tubular cross member are gonna need a good bit of work too.
Strap wrench on the shock body, the dislocation cones are a nut and bolt affair and I got mine on with a couple of ring spanners, you should have quite easy access from inside with the floor out
You really are going to have to cut that bit out around the top shock mounts, too thin for my liking, those end plates on the tubular cross member are gonna need a good bit of work too.
Not too bad but that pitting is deep!!!
Strap wrench on the shock body, the dislocation cones are a nut and bolt affair and I got mine on with a couple of ring spanners, you should have quite easy access from inside with the floor out
You really are going to have to cut that bit out around the top shock mounts, too thin for my liking, those end plates on the tubular cross member are gonna need a good bit of work too.
Cheers. End plates are ****ed mate. How do I play it with the crush tubes?
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Bit of CAD (cardboard assisted design) will help here, take card big enough to cover all rot being cut out, cut as a template, wallop bolts through to mark holes and use a hole punch to make them oversize to accommodate the crush tubes, I like a 1 to 1.5mm gap all round the tube to ensure perfect welding in of the tubes, cut the rot out and grind round the tubes to clean them back or buy some new tube and fit new, it's up to you, geometry is not affected so you can be a half inch out without worry.
If you want I will try to explain with pics when I gets home tonight.
What is the chassis rail like under them caps? Bet its shot to bits too
