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change the prop and diff flange for a 200TDi one.
Steep learning curve
- Thread starter resto_d1
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You sure it's not just backlash in the rear diff? There will always be a little bit but if there were no very visible wear on the splines then I'd say the diff has backlash but so long as it's not excessively noisy it'll be fine.
300Tdi half shafts can use either or for sealing but I also used Hylomar on mine at the rear but paper on the fronts as they are the CVs and float in the drive member.
I did check the splines closely. They looked good so guess it could be just backlash. I actually think I asked JM on that before. I sealed diff with hylomar too as the gaskets looked crap. She’s really looking closer to the end than the beginning now which is great. I’m hoping there’s been some mechanical sympathy. Prop uj is a fairly new looking gkn with grease nipple which is a good sign! Need to order a boot floor payday as it’s ready for it 
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Always good to have a boot floor payday
Always good to have a boot floor payday
Maybe on a payday in the future I can buy shiny exciting bits rather than folded metal
here’s another question then. Transfer box leaks. Does one buy a seal kit and rebuild or is there a common gasket that dies? Looks like there’s fresh oil on the bolts
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Normal answer is a tray underneath, unless you fancy a box rebuild
Maybe on a payday in the future I can buy shiny exciting bits rather than folded metal
.JM would know more, depending on where it’s leaking.
Normal answer is a tray underneath, unless you fancy a box rebuild
JM would know more, depending on where it’s leaking.
I think the tray is the hope but I think it’s dripping from shaft onto bolt heads. Thanks, I’ll do some digging
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Make it a big hole and put the complete feckin thing in
Noooo! It’s not like I drove it home realized it was a deathtrap and ripped it apart on my drive for the last year throwing money at a driveway ornament is it?
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No, but it would be cheaper . As I keep reminding myself .
. As I keep reminding myself .
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Hers an idea for ya.....
Like it bar lights and grille. I still want this oem+ look which I guess is equivalent to lr special vehicles kind of look. I do live white ones. Especially a 90s white. They look like there’s been hidden away in a time capsule
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It’s a D1 with d3 front end
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They will look mint on tuftee. I’m no go with wiring relays etc. I saw an eBay seller sells a kit like the one you did a write up how to for the low coolant alarm. More money.
I just realized I have bushes for front radius arms, arb etc all in set so I can keep project rolling until I have money. I’ve just taken new job and payday comes 10 days later as will fuel expenses! I cleaned up transfer box - maybe it was just oil that I’d sprayed about but after I cleaned no drips on bolts. Power steering pump looks like it’s leaked all down the drop arm though!
What’s the crack with mot if I have no rear arb fitted? Drop links were chopped near bracket so I just left the ends in and painted
I just realized I have bushes for front radius arms, arb etc all in set so I can keep project rolling until I have money. I’ve just taken new job and payday comes 10 days later as will fuel expenses! I cleaned up transfer box - maybe it was just oil that I’d sprayed about but after I cleaned no drips on bolts. Power steering pump looks like it’s leaked all down the drop arm though!
What’s the crack with mot if I have no rear arb fitted? Drop links were chopped near bracket so I just left the ends in and painted
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Not all D1's had ARBs.
We can all help with 'lectrics if you want?
We can all help with 'lectrics if you want?
Thank you. I think I’m ok with the loom but was going to buy the low coolant alarm almost pre made as the circuitry gets tricky and I don’t want to damage the cars electrics. I can manage additional lights and things as they’re just a feed and earth.
Seem expensive?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24-Volt-...e&pageci=04cc88d7-6d8e-467c-8c68-902a854a65e7
