Steep learning curve

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Rear cross members rot out badly and the chassis legs always need plated, easy route is a rear 1/4 chassis if it looks like the legs are bad, word to the wise, don't pull the tub off if you have to replace the rear CM as the bolt holes will help in lining up the new one for welding ;)
 
dieseldog69 said:
Rear cross members rot out badly and the chassis legs always need plated, easy route is a rear 1/4 chassis if it looks like the legs are bad, word to the wise, don't pull the tub off if you have to replace the rear CM as the bolt holes will help in lining up the new one for welding ;)
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Ah right cheers. Yes tear cross member has gone and rear legs are ropey to the point I thought a new chassis was needed. However, the cash isn't there hence why I'm fixing. I'll ask before anything major as I'll find out things like that lol
 
Day one back on it and I flashed myself- oops. Hopefully won't be grit eyed tonight. I left my helmet on grind by accident. Then, my first weld, whilst underneath for some reason went off like Chinese fireworks and I got hotrocks down my sleeve!. I continued welding up the chassis. Wherever it's thin I'm chopping. I've got the 3mm in for the strengthened area but now going 2mm over the top and spot welding to strentheners as Advised. The shame Was, the top of the box was also a bit crispy. Therefore, I need to chop out and put a 3mm panel in the top and seal with 2mm. I ran out of discs. The up side of this is I can deox all that I open. It pretty much needs the chassis replacing on the rhs from box cross member to trailing arm. Systematic to stop it snapping!
 
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I accidently welded my outer to my inner but going to chop back a touch to tie in anyway :rolleyes:

So tomorrow I'll get to screwfix first thing and chop top out and hopefully get some.kind of primer as eBay seller lied.

Then, chop the top out, deox and brush the insides then weld in my 3mm to 3mm then 2mm and spots over the top. From there I'll continue the rear to trailing arm bracket and chop off outrigger.

There's a beautiful white d1 near mine that looks like it's never even seen a welder. I wonder if he knows our pain :rolleyes:
 
Was an aldi special buy. Was sat in cupboard until I bought this and now it's in use whenever I'm on it. Stops me sitting on the floor and props your head up to avoid neck ache when working underneath. I'm paranoid about my welds to be honest. I always wonder if I've got enough penetration when I can't see the other side. They're always hot and strong but I still get paranoid. The car is so rotten I might aswell have bout a series lol. The old defender I'm doing on the side is less rotten :confused:
 
Just been screwfix and bought a tin of no nonsense red oxide. Nowhere sells high quality paint near me and I've got to cost the bare stuff with something?!
 
Chrisw8 said:
screwfix stuff is good.
i cant use a creeper under mine, Disco is on a steep slope ....ill end up flying down it !!! lol
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I figured it's all clean steel and it's going to be coated with wax on inside and epoxy mastic on outside. Also aware of how much paint costs lol. Gotta finish up with the rug doctor tomorrow before I weld or I'll end up losing my landy points. On the defender weds. I hate to say it but much prefer working on that. The disco is a more sensible application for what I want though (camper/exploration vehicle). I also think clean d1s look so cool. The white one by me would boost your morale! Your very good at smashing through yours - I get fed up with the noise
 
Some graft today!! Chopped took off and cleaned inside. Used land rover special tool to get required width on chassis and seemed the new strengthening plate to new wall. Cleaned all back and painted

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With my 3mm in on both sides I reinforced. I didn't do as per factory. I almost made an h profile so that I could sit my final 2mm on top.
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painted up then got my new section on top. Finished off with a flappy wheel and lick of paint.

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resto_d1 said:
Some graft today!! Chopped took off and cleaned inside. Used land rover special tool to get required width on chassis and seemed the new strengthening plate to new wall. Cleaned all back and painted

View attachment 158990

With my 3mm in on both sides I reinforced. I didn't do as per factory. I almost made an h profile so that I could sit my final 2mm on top.
View attachment 158991 painted up then got my new section on top. Finished off with a flappy wheel and lick of paint.

View attachment 158992 View attachment 158993 View attachment 158994 View attachment 158995
Click to expand...

Getting the hang of this now lad ;)
 
I'll be honest as I'm far from from a know it all and always ask. In return, people such as yourself have helped me out loads from the simplest of things. Not one person told me "leave it to the pros". Landyzone is an absolute knowledge bank with a wealth og experience. Part of getting this landy was to build skills and put my late grandads tools back to work. I was sh1tting myself about this repair. I really was lol. It was going to be a make or break if I got s new chassis. I'm completely chuffed today. A year ago I wouldn't have been able to do this repair. Not only am I benefiting but I can now help the lady whom has been ripped of with confidence that I'll do her a good job. So, thanks all for your help!!!
 
Another day on the 110 today. Have hit a stumbling block with the loom though. I did post another fred. Basically, as I'm sure a lot of you know, there's a fuse board infront of gear sticks on bulkhead. The loom from this then splits left n right. N/s has two sections that run into chassis. Im feeding most wiring into cabin where possible with the end goal being lift out bulkhead and weld up on a bench and do a full job rather than all the ****ty patching she's seen.

I believe I have the loom left, steering column split, brake unbolt and doors off. Doors are being a prick. Can i just drill out? Im guessing its a screw clip on other side. Anyways, pictures. Any advice appreciated as always
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these two here.....
 
'kinell no turning back now!!!

Bet it turns out ok, keep heat to minimum and if you can keep a damp rag and bucket to keep it damp close and quench the heat out of the welds and you will hardly distort it at all.
 
Already distorted haha
It got a bit of kink in it but not too bad. Window will still fit fine. Gotta get some fibreglass filler but think it's gunna be a defender day tomorrow as it's stormy as **** here! Bit annoyed that I have clean steel exposed but nothing the wire brush won't clean up
 
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