Starting problem when engine warm

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Yep i'm glad yer glad , mondos glad, Marks glad, your all glad, Porkys glad,Mrs Ming is very glad, Willows always glad ,but most and foremost Ming is glad. . .:) :) :)
 
steve gR said:
Hi Simon
I had the same problems as you (see cam sensor), replaced cam sensor today £55 from dealer, it takes about 2 minutes to do yourself. Tried to start the car before leaving the dealers and it wouldn't start, so I fitted the new sensor while I was there, tried the car and it started. I drove home and turned off the car, I gave it ten minutes and went out to try it again, the car started first time again. It looks like this has sorted out my problem and I hope it will help you.
Regards
Steve
Click to expand...

Hi also had this exact same problem!! It was annoying me for months, then my friend whos a landrover mechanic plugged the diagnostic tool to it, and the fault was recorded. Seems it doesn't always record it though from what you guys are saying. Bloody annoying, I'm starting to wonder how many other common faults the td4 has! Might have to sell it soon before it goes wrong again.

Tim
 
I think the missus has a similar problem with her hippo td4.

Each time I drive it it starts instantly. But she claims that occaisionally hot or cold it sometimes will not start.

It turns over fine but does not fire. It can take as many as 6 attempts, then on the last attempt fires up instantly. I was thinking immobiliser, but is it going to be cam sensor.

It appears to be intermittant and random.

cheers
 
Will M said:
I think the missus has a similar problem with her hippo td4.

Each time I drive it it starts instantly. But she claims that occaisionally hot or cold it sometimes will not start.

It turns over fine but does not fire. It can take as many as 6 attempts, then on the last attempt fires up instantly. I was thinking immobiliser, but is it going to be cam sensor.

It appears to be intermittant and random.

cheers
Click to expand...
Hi willm . . .first call is ya fuel filter,unless its bin changed recent. . .:)
 
Will M said:
I think the missus has a similar problem with her hippo td4.

Each time I drive it it starts instantly. But she claims that occaisionally hot or cold it sometimes will not start.

It turns over fine but does not fire. It can take as many as 6 attempts, then on the last attempt fires up instantly. I was thinking immobiliser, but is it going to be cam sensor.

It appears to be intermittant and random.

cheers
Click to expand...


Wimmin Eh! wot they like???:rolleyes: ;)

Welcome by the way!:D
 
Thanks for replys and the welcome.

Yeah I should have said hello. I thought I had, I have looked throught the forum a fair bit and already felt at home.

Hippo is 2001 td4 with around 55k on the clock. It had had a bit of a hard life till we picked it up. I like it,but Its last service was £1400 so I have started taking it to a local garage run buy a mate. Over the 4 years we have had it, it has had virually everything go wrong that could. Well all the typical stuff found on forums like this one.

Sorry back on topic. Would the fuel filter cause it to not start. Or would it just make the starting poor.

I understand that if it going to start it starts as soon as engine cranked. When it won't start it wont start no matter how long you crank it.
 
Will M said:
Thanks for replys and the welcome.

.
Click to expand...
Hi Will m . . .well the filter is well documented for poor starting and a easy place to start, check to see if your 2001 has 2 fuel pumps one in rear above tank and one in engine bay rhs as lookin in,it twas bout 2001 they changed the pump layout , however my point being that the rear one is well known for going weak and not delivering the correct amount of fuel on start up,if ya go through the threads in search it is documented. . .best oh luck. . . .:)
 
He we go again with more detail.

Hello I am Will .

Car is Hippo June 2000 TD4 57,000 miles.

I like the freelander, but it has had in the 3 years we have had it:

maf
wheel bearings
ABS sensors
door locks
IRD
sunroof cassette
front drive shafts

Over £2,000 spent at dealer last year alone.

Present

Problem with car starting or the missus. She explains it poor starting in a lauguage I cannot understand well, but I will try to translate.

It starts from cold no problems so far. But when its been on a run and left for 10 minutes to an hour (warm) It intermittantly wont start.

When it turns over is seams to be at a normal speed. It will turn over for a second then stop turning over, or it will turn over an over and not fire.

The battery when left for a while reads a low as 10.5v which seams low to me, but this would not eplain it starting from cold. The battery is a sealed type but is showing sings of weeping a little.

I thought that Ming was right about fuel filter, but why would it stop turning over. Imobiliser maybe or electric because of low voltage?

I struck it up a coulpe of times a minute ago and so long as I kept key turned long enough 2-3 seconds it started. Had the feeling like it was strugling a bit, fuel filter again.

Any help ming, mondo and guys appreicated.
 
OK FUEL FILTER is the easy one ,10.5 volts bit loww but not that bad,[battery on way out] one or more glow plugs could be u/s ,you can check these if ya clever by measuring its internal resistance in ohms, but yer have to disconect the common lead , these are the first basics. . .
 
"Yer batterys shagged! " :eek:

Thanks for the advice guys.

Will get price on battery tommorow. I have heard people recommend Varta..

Will have a go at testing the glow plugs too.

cheers
 
Why isn't anything staight forward? :mad:

I got the battery and near identical match.

So I get out me sockets and think 3 minutes and I will have it done.

The bolt that hold the clamp in place on the battery tray just turns and turns. I guess that the nut behind is spinning, but can't get to it. Am I missing a trick or do I have to drill the bolt out?

Cheers guys..
 
Just a quick update.

Drilled of the head of the battery retaining clamp bolt. Took the battery tray out. Hammered out the remains of the bolt and captive nut-thing. It was rusted solid. Drenched it with easing oil, and then had to apply some heat.

I eventually got it free. Stick it all in then, got a rplacement bolt off a mate and all went back good as new.

Whacked in the new cam sensor. All week it's started, no problems hot or cold.
 
steve gR said:
Hi
I'm pretty sure our problem is being caused by the cam sensor being faulty when hot. Try taking the sensor out for a few minutes the next time it will not start and then put it back in . This gives the sensor chance to cool down and start working. I'm going to change mine, the stealer is asking for £55 so I'm trying to source a cheaper one. I'll let you know if it works.
Click to expand...
this seems very possible but i have a concern the the engine management light does not come on, or maybe this problem is somehow tricking the ECM
 
If its a Freelander TD4 and starts fine when cold but struggles to start when engine hot. I am no expert but I think its like to be cam sensor.

Since changing it (and battery although this may not have been needed), it has started perfectly hot or cold.
 
there is a ambient temp resistor inside hall effect high speed sensors un its a common fault for these ta go intermittent,on all types of motors, the ecu looks at wot speed its doing, the only way to measure it is with a avo 12v dc setting ,crank engine and get er blip, to measure at high speed you will need expensive avo or oscilloscope or if yer clever lap top with er silly scope set up. . . .:)
 
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