Starting problem. Starter motor or ignition quirk?

Working through my new Freelander 50th Anniversary L series 1999 and nearly done but found a curious fault in the starting.
Sometimes I turn the key, wait for the glow plug light to go out and fire away. Other times it just makes the solenoid click. My first suspicions when it simply wouldn't start, just click, was battery, but it's a new battery fitted by previous owner, and still good. No other symptoms of duff battery, and even does it after a good charge. When it does start, it's on the button.

So, is there some kind of relay that stops the car from activating the starter until the glow plug light is out, and it is staying on longer, or is the starter motor duff? Is it easy to change on these things??

Going to clean up the starter wiring connections tomorrow and the engine earth strap, but where is the bloody strap?


Until this is sussed out, I have no confidence driving it, in case I get stranded out on my rounds so all answers appreciated.
thanks!

Sounds like the problem I had with my Discovery, same intermittent starting issue and at first I thought it was the 12v connection to the solenoid and cleaned the contact but it still happened. Further investigation revealed worn solenoid contacts inside the solenoid.

I am not sure if you can buy new contacts, if not a new starter motor will be needed but worth cleaning your connections first

Every time it does it, there is a nice loud positive click from the solenoid, but I shall have a poke around the solenoid, if it is accessible and not one sealed unit.

Thanks mate, you solved the problem!

Found this site: Technical Information - RepairkitsUK | Starter Motor Repair Kits | Don't Buy a New Start Motor - Repair It

Supplies new contacts and plunger for TD5s, TD4s, Kv6s and L series, and a few Toyotas and Oily Rags. Bought mine form his ebay shop for £9.95. Flippin' bargain!!

FREELANDER 2.0 DIESEL STARTER MOTOR REPAIR KIT 98 - 00 on eBay (end time 24-Feb-11 21:29:06 GMT)


:high5:

Had exact same problem on mine and ordered one of those kits - sorted it out a treat and didn't take too long to do. You can clean up all the contacts to the starter motor when you do it too.

Just to update, I have fixed the problem with the aforementioned kit!

The kit arrived with clear instructions as on the website, but to be honest, it is a very straightforward operation, and quite obvious.

First remove the airbox by removing two 8mm screws from the battery tray and unclipping the MAF part. The Haynes Book Of Lies says you need to remove the battery and disconnect it. Not so, but work with caution..



The starter motor must be removed, but on the L series this is simple. First remove the main live wire to the solenoid, but take great care to keep it covered by it's rubber piece. In practice this proves quite easy to do, then remove the small solenoid wire which just pulls off its spade end connector. next remove the support bracket and the upper bolt, which are easily visible. Then reach down behind and below the motor to find the lower bolt, both are 15mm IIRC. This pic shows the positional relationship of the two bolts for the motor and I have tried to position the motor in it's correct plane:





Once out, remove the big wire from it's bolt, and also remove the top cap and it's rubber seal, by it's 3 8mm bolts, then remove the solenoid plunger:







The pitting of the copper contacts is what causes the problem. Compare these with new ones and you can see that this is a common design problem. I would strongly suggest anyone with a Nippon Denso starter motor (TD5, TD4, L series, K V6) to routinely replace these contacts and plunger every 100k miles.



The instructions advise fitting only one side at a time to avoid confusion, but I found it simple enough, just remember the order that bits on the bolt come off. The main feed side also has a large bent rectangular plastic 'washer' whilst the other side has rubber gaskets. I cleaned the inside with a little brake cleaner from an aerosol can before refitting, and also rubbed clean the contacts everywhere with scotch cloth (kitchen scourer)



And drop in the plunger, remembering to transfer the spring across, and I also added a little lubricant grease:



It was then a simple case of reassembly is reverse of disassembly in true Haynes fictional style...

Then, insert ignition key, await glow plug light extinction, then turn away.. mine fired up instantly, and has continued every since. Gone is the normal deathly click followed by nothing, or the occasional slight turn of the starter followed by nothing. Simple fix, costing £10 and took me less than an hour, mainly because of taking photos and my usual habit of cleaning everything up as I strip them.


Tools used for the job:

Glad you got it fixed

Fabulous post mate, better than the Haynes!! Got a simlar fault only mine (td4) always cranks over but will sometimes take ages to fire 10 secs or more, other times starts on first crank. But for 10 pund this is a worthy "preventative" maintainance job.This is why I love this forum! Thanks.

Yep good right up. Nice to what the solution was, and how to do it.

Reet good write up . . . . . .should be put in the common faults dept .well done Earthling

Ahead of you already, oh Merciless One... :drum:


Also put up the heater fan fix too.

Spacemonkey... said:

Ahead of you already, oh Merciless One... :drum:


Also put up the heater fan fix too.

Click to expand...

Dont get too carried away,remember your just a mere Earthling and have a very limited brain, but i did admire your write ups

Nice one, good clear pics and steps... Cheers