P38A Starter
- Thread starter Dopey
- Start date
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- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
I was just about to ask if it was your new one. That's not bad then.
In the top of the pump is a little circuit board where the brushes are attached. I bet if you have a quick look the circuit will be burned somewhere. Best check the relay in the fusebox though and make sure no burning there or you might fry the replacement pump as well.
I did look at the box, it seems ok, and the wires look good, they sent it out UPS express from Germany (has a 2 year warranty) says I should get it tomorrow, I didn't expect it that quick, glad I went with them in some ways
I will take it apart tomorrow or on the weekend... at least I still have the insides so use if the Teflon or other things do go wrong to replace them
I will take it apart tomorrow or on the weekend... at least I still have the insides so use if the Teflon or other things do go wrong to replace them
First off, its all working fine now, no flowing of the fuse anymore, air going is and out, starting fine, so its all ok now and seems to be all sorted,
the fist thing I noticed taking the old pump off was the the front was lose on it, 3 hex screws where the cover plate is for the piston, so for a start of that's lose the air is going to escape, ( its filthy inside now as well) so I checked the new one, and its the same not lose, but needed 3 more turns of the hex for it to seal correctly all the way, now this has no bearing probably on what was happening to me and the flowing of the fuse, so I took the top off where the brushes are, pulled the whole thing apart, and undid the 2 screws even holding it so I could look at the underside, and game it a good sniff for electrical burning, nothing and no dray solder joints, wires seemed OK, so I don't know what it was, it looks a little greasy but that's all
the fist thing I noticed taking the old pump off was the the front was lose on it, 3 hex screws where the cover plate is for the piston, so for a start of that's lose the air is going to escape, ( its filthy inside now as well) so I checked the new one, and its the same not lose, but needed 3 more turns of the hex for it to seal correctly all the way, now this has no bearing probably on what was happening to me and the flowing of the fuse, so I took the top off where the brushes are, pulled the whole thing apart, and undid the 2 screws even holding it so I could look at the underside, and game it a good sniff for electrical burning, nothing and no dray solder joints, wires seemed OK, so I don't know what it was, it looks a little greasy but that's all
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
On the side of the casing is a cover screw that covers where you put the allen key through to get the grub screw that hold the piston onto the motor. On my original replacement that grub screw wasn't tight and the piston came loose and wobbled all over the place. Wrecked the piston. When I got the replacement for that I check and tightened that grub screw and checked all the others too.
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Glad to hear it is fixed and at no extra cost. I'll be watching that seller now!
