starter stops the diesel solenoid...

boguing · May 9, 2008

What age is the 90?

Looking at the circuit diagrams, it seems more likely that you have an ignition switch problem.

Post 1991, I'd expect that you would also not get the glow plugs or 'Cold Start' light on the dash working.

Prior to that, the 12v supply to the cut off didn't do much, other than power the low level switches in the tank(s).

netmgr · May 9, 2008

boguing said:
What age is the 90?

Looking at the circuit diagrams, it seems more likely that you have an ignition switch problem.

Post 1991, I'd expect that you would also not get the glow plugs or 'Cold Start' light on the dash working.

Prior to that, the 12v supply to the cut off didn't do much, other than power the low level switches in the tank(s).

If you have a look through the thread i have mentioned that the ignition switch is not part of the problem as i have directly connected the fuel solenoid to the battery for testing purposes.

The 90 is 1984 and doesnt actually have an ignition switch, it gave up long ago, just has a toggle switch and push to start and a seperate glow plug switch

Im completly baffaled, im thinking i perhaps have a dodgy new solenoid, thats borderline, ie works with lots of power, ie direct from a second battery, but not when attached to the same as starting the engine...its all i can think of at this stage.

slob · May 9, 2008

use a test lamp

boguing · May 9, 2008

OK. According to Haynes there are a couple of possibilities:-

1/ There may be an inertia switch in the original feed from the ignition switch to the fuel cut off. Have you by-passed that?

2/ If not the former, I'd reckon that the solenoid in the cut off is more likely to be suspect than the starter solenoid.

slob · May 9, 2008

oh ffs

netmgr · May 9, 2008

boguing said:
OK. According to Haynes there are a couple of possibilities:-

1/ There may be an inertia switch in the original feed from the ignition switch to the fuel cut off. Have you by-passed that?

2/ If not the former, I'd reckon that the solenoid in the cut off is more likely to be suspect than the starter solenoid.

I have bypassed everything!

1 single wire, no fuses no relays, one straight run of wire over the top of engine, round the door and onto the top of the battery!

Im suspecting the fuel solenoid, ill pop into town tomorrow and buy a more expensive one rather as my ebay version i got today.

slob · May 9, 2008

sounds like a plan

boydy1989 · May 10, 2008

The diode that may be in place around any solenoid is there for the following reason:
If an inductor, like a solenoid goes from energised to n ot energised very quickly then a very large voltage is generated back across is, in the opposite direction.
This is often much larger than the voltage used to drive it 'cos it changes so quickly, and will easily blow up any transistor anywhwere near it. So they put a diode in normally backwards, so when this back EMF is generated it drains straight through the diode and so doesn't harm anything.

Can't see that this would stop the solenoid working though. I would suspect it to be faulty and not like the lower voltage present when cranking, as it does drop by a fair few volts.

Let us know if a new one fixes it!
boydy

slob · May 10, 2008

there might also be a di-lithium crystal installed in series with the starter for this reason. if you want to travel at warp speed you need something with a bit more kick than an impulse engine . and when the di-lithium crystal is energised the flux output capacitor can have a detrimental effect on anything electric, causing it to mal function.. the starter being a big hard bastid can take all the oomph it want from the available oomph and that leave very little oomph fer owt else. now if yer fuel cut orf sillynoid is feeling below par it just wint have the balls to take on the starter and therefore not work.

but i doubt that is your problem, having checked yer earths and yer battery. and as yer battery is capable of starting yer injun, that only leaves a bad connection which yer illinminated by using yer wire or yer sillynoid is ****ed.
i suggest yer get another new one and try that.

just a thought but did yer put owt like fred lock on the sillynoid before fitting it?

netmgr · May 10, 2008

Success!

I have replaced the L&T 7167-620A with a Durite 7167-620B
Apparently the B superceeds the A version.

The difference seems to be that the plunger is held in position without power, where as the earlier version fell out if it wasnt in screwed in place into the pump, which made fitting it hard work - weather this is the only difference i dont know. However im sure that version A worked fine, it has just been bettered - therefore im concluding that my L&T version was faulty.

so there you go, thanks for all your help and suggestions

starter stops the diesel solenoid...

boguing

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slob

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