Starter motor or starter solenoid failure?

Hella ,Bosch and other do Solid State bladed Relay but they are not cheap Amazon product but still prone to crappy spade relay bases ,on my series one I fitted a 6 way relay base form a LDV van which has the spring contact connections .the early SSR would switch at 3 volts upwards flat battery or not so would require anti feed back diodes ,not sure if the latest have this fitted internally ,there are also the SSR'S that are screw type terminals that handle very high currents

mystery said:

Hella ,Bosch and other do Solid State bladed Relay but they are not cheap Amazon product but still prone to crappy spade relay bases ,on my series one I fitted a 6 way relay base form a LDV van which has the spring contact connections .the early SSR would switch at 3 volts upwards flat battery or not so would require anti feed back diodes ,not sure if the latest have this fitted internally ,there are also the SSR'S that are screw type terminals that handle very high currents

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that is completely new to me, how on earth does a solid state relay work? Also if needing additional wiring for diodes ect may not be the best option for me as I have just fitted all new wiring looms throughout so am reluctant to beginning hacking them about!

Back in the 1980s and 90s when I used to scavenge in scrap yards a good deal, it was clear that a great many of the British machines from the 50s, 60s and 70s had been scrapped with well under 100,000 miles on the clock. It always struck me as a terrible waste. I'm hoping that with wear items swapped out regularly and the occasional squirt of Dinitrol the Land Rover will last me for the rest of my life.

ifo taken from Hella catalogue ,your starter has a pre-engage solenoid so should not draw a large current have you tried attaching separate earth wire to the relay to eliminate the alarm ECU the B/O wire when it's a none starter

4-PIN SOLID STATE RELAY

Normally Open Relay (Solid State / SPST-NO) A normally-open 4-pin relay closes its “power”circuit when both sides of the control circuit (85/86) are closed to ground. Solid State relays can be pulse width modulated. While a solid state relay can plug into a conventional relay holder, the wiring must be reassigned so that pin 85 is a constant ground and pin 86 gets grounded when the relay needs to turn on the power circuit.

The Solid-State 4-pin Relay
Solid-state electronics feature no moving or wearable parts. In essence, they could conceivably last forever. They make no noise when switched. The Hella 931773987 is the most popular solid-state relay in the conventional form factor. This relay requires that proper assignment be made to all four terminals. Fused power into terminal 30; power supply to device on terminal 87; terminal 85 to constant ground and terminal 86 to be the switched control to ground. Grounding terminal 86 energizes the relay and closes the 30-87 power circuit. This relay can be run from an ECU at duty cycle between 10 and 90 percent. Frequency can be from 1 to 1000Hz. This relay only takes about 0.0001 seconds to energize with a closed ground or 0.000075 seconds to release. The relay is ideally suited to be used with resistive loads when under pulse width modulated frequency control. Common examples of resistive loads include most electrical heaters, and traditional incandescent lighting loads. Hence you could use a PWM controlled solid state relay to control the temperature of an electric rear defroster, heated seat or light bulb

so i believe there are two parts to the throw out / movement the first part of the movement is triggered by the key circuit pulling the solenoid down the solenoid is then held down by the current / circuit it completes. there's quite a few reasons these end up this way tired motor pulling to much current and over heating things and making components work to hard leads to premature failure of a replacement solenoid this is the conclusion i came to after a few you tube videos