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starter clicks
- Thread starter big_ogre
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We is big psis takers on here, take nothing you read seriously.
Many land rover ownes come from or still have mbikes
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Looks like you have at least got some idea of what could be the problem.
If you still have the starter out, pop the solenoid off and see if the arm is still connected, A to the end of the solenoid plunger and B to its pivot point in the main casing.
Not heard of many issues with D3 starters, so if its dead a 2nd hand one should be a safe bet.
Not heard of many issues with D3 starters, so if its dead a 2nd hand one should be a safe bet.
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If all connections to starter are good and solenoid is working, then it may be something deeper into the starter like worn brushes. I'll leave this to the D3 experts now and step back, but best of luck with it!
ive got solenoid off plunger was attached to an arm that kicks spline out did u mean to replace the solenoid ?
back at it today i still got starter out connected the jump lead to positive that goes on starter from battery an neg on to frame iv got a wire from trigger aswell the only way i can get it to spin is to jump a wire from positive to trigger wire an then it turns on the key ? still cant figure out if it is the solenoid thats away
neilly
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cheers man the one on the d3 is a slightly different starter motor the solenoid seems to be a sealed unit ?
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Whatever type of starter you have three things need to happen before it will work.
it is easiest to read the section "operation" in this
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starter_solenoid
But basically, if the solenoid clicks, it just means that the current has got to it and made it move towrds the contacts, this should also mean that it has pushed or pulled the pinion into position within the ring gear.
But the pinion will only turn once the contacts switched by this movement of the solenoid make the connection across the pinion drive, then the pinion will whizz round as long as the brushes and commutator in the pinion motor are ok. If it is mounted on the engine and the current to the brushes is strong enough and the engine isn't seized etc, then it should turn the engine.
It's as simple as that really.
Maybe you could borrow a good one and try it? Did you already mention that? (There are a few similar threads on this at the moment and I get confused which one is which)
I put up an instructable recently but it may not be of much use. Here it is. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...or-on-td5-auto-replacing-contacts-etc.357169/
sierrafery
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The D3's starter can't be compared with the Td5's except the working principle eventually, it's a different construction so if it clicks and doesnt spin i'm affraid another one is required
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cheers man i think another starter is a good starting place lol will order one an let ya all know the outcome
Did say that, I think.
shame it can't be fixed like a D2 one. Typical "progress"!
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Do hope that sorts it.
Hi @big_ogre
welcome to the the asylum, lol,
u will find that everyone here are the most genuine and helpful people u will come across and experts and taking the p**s, lol
here’s some more info for u and indeed please let us know how it goes
please don’t be tempted to buy a cheap one, genuine Denso are around £180 , u can buy the motor without the solenoid but alas but not worth it really as there £150 so indeed might as well buy the complete starter motor
plus of course what others have said, ensuring earth / leads are ok, ,battery ,all confirmed with multimeter
may i ask please And hope it’s not a daft question ,
did the starter motor fail after u tried to start it first time in the day
or did the engine stop and then u tried to turn it over and the starter motor failed
Many thk and Hope that helps
The starter motor is rated as 2.0 kW and is a Denso level three sealed unit. It is a P76S type starter motor and is of conventional design with the motor in line and the drive pinion and solenoid mounted above. Each starter motor is of the pre-engaged type and comprises of a series wound motor, an overrunning clutch and an integral solenoid. This starter incorporates labyrinth breathing tubes to help with sealing and drainage.
The starter solenoid is energised by a signal from the ECM when the ignition switch is moved to the crank position. When engine cranking is requested, the ECM checks that a valid key code has been received before granting the crank request. The power for starter operation is supplied on a substantial single cable connected direct from the battery positive terminal. The cable is connected to the solenoid via a copper threaded stud and secured with a nut.
The starter motor is located on the rear RH side of the engine block and protrudes through an aperture to drive the flywheel via a ring gear. The motor is secured to the cylinder block by two bolts and to the ladder frame by four bolts and a support bracket. The bracket provides crucial support for the starter motor and must not be omitted when installing or reinstalling the unit.
welcome to the the asylum, lol,
u will find that everyone here are the most genuine and helpful people u will come across and experts and taking the p**s, lol
here’s some more info for u and indeed please let us know how it goes
please don’t be tempted to buy a cheap one, genuine Denso are around £180 , u can buy the motor without the solenoid but alas but not worth it really as there £150 so indeed might as well buy the complete starter motor
plus of course what others have said, ensuring earth / leads are ok, ,battery ,all confirmed with multimeter
may i ask please And hope it’s not a daft question ,
did the starter motor fail after u tried to start it first time in the day
or did the engine stop and then u tried to turn it over and the starter motor failed
Many thk and Hope that helps
The starter motor is rated as 2.0 kW and is a Denso level three sealed unit. It is a P76S type starter motor and is of conventional design with the motor in line and the drive pinion and solenoid mounted above. Each starter motor is of the pre-engaged type and comprises of a series wound motor, an overrunning clutch and an integral solenoid. This starter incorporates labyrinth breathing tubes to help with sealing and drainage.
The starter solenoid is energised by a signal from the ECM when the ignition switch is moved to the crank position. When engine cranking is requested, the ECM checks that a valid key code has been received before granting the crank request. The power for starter operation is supplied on a substantial single cable connected direct from the battery positive terminal. The cable is connected to the solenoid via a copper threaded stud and secured with a nut.
The starter motor is located on the rear RH side of the engine block and protrudes through an aperture to drive the flywheel via a ring gear. The motor is secured to the cylinder block by two bolts and to the ladder frame by four bolts and a support bracket. The bracket provides crucial support for the starter motor and must not be omitted when installing or reinstalling the unit.
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