After having taken about 4hrs, having to use a mini hacksaw blade, to cut through the severely rusted bolts and nuts securing an ex bump stop mount on my Series 3, I am wondering if fitting the new bump stops using stainless steel nuts and bolts would be the way to go? Would this minimise the corrosion in future??
Stainless steel or not stainless steel? --- that is the question
- Thread starter McBoon
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Flossie
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 11,001
- Location
- Shropshire
In a nutshell yes.
I've recently had to remove and replace a rear bumpstop on my 110, fitted using stainless steel nuts and bolts 16 yrs ago, came undone easily.
I've recently had to remove and replace a rear bumpstop on my 110, fitted using stainless steel nuts and bolts 16 yrs ago, came undone easily.
Colthebrummie
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,870
- Location
- Thatcham
Get a bigger hacksaw or a angle grinder. When I was a mechanic, a chisel was the most used tool in the box, well, that and a hammer
Col
Col
saxavordian
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,290
https://www.fastenerdata.co.uk/thread-galling
Worth a read.
I use a lot of stainless steel fastenings on the boat & also to replace bits on my Range Rover.
When I rebuilt my BSA A10 30-odd years ago I used stainless throughout. The beauty is no corrosion appearing from under washers as you would get with normal stuff & everything comes undone.
Using lubricant I've never had an issue but - albeit very rarely - I have experienced galling on unlubricated stuff & the only answer is to cut them off & start again with a new nut & bolt
Worth a read.
I use a lot of stainless steel fastenings on the boat & also to replace bits on my Range Rover.
When I rebuilt my BSA A10 30-odd years ago I used stainless throughout. The beauty is no corrosion appearing from under washers as you would get with normal stuff & everything comes undone.
Using lubricant I've never had an issue but - albeit very rarely - I have experienced galling on unlubricated stuff & the only answer is to cut them off & start again with a new nut & bolt
Last edited:
Wildefalcon
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,669
Didn't read the article, couldn't be bothered, but stainless is great for non structural and when joining steel stuff together. So ideal for bump stops.
Don't use for body fixings, or holding on important stuff, like springs, bumpers engines etc.
Don't use for body fixings, or holding on important stuff, like springs, bumpers engines etc.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
- Posts
- 60,151
- Location
- Lathrowda, Kernow
Club hammer and a sharp cold chisel, and a 4 inch angle grinder, are essential tools for Land Rovers.
Stainless nuts and bolts are probably good for that, or just plenty of Copperslip on new ordinary bolts.
nickjaxe
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 821
- Location
- North Cheshire/Merseyside
I use stailess were I can....not suitable in some high stress areas.
BikerB
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 6,317
- Location
- Far up North
I thought about stainless for my build but my current feeling is to used zinc plated bolts and copperease.
I am not keen on stainless for most stressed applications and corrosion can be an issue between metals.
Not decided yet but this is certainly the way I am thinking at the moment.
I am not keen on stainless for most stressed applications and corrosion can be an issue between metals.
Not decided yet but this is certainly the way I am thinking at the moment.
