Spinning Wheel

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Shore968

Member
Posts
37
Location
East devon
Evening all,

Been out logging today with the d2 and had an issue trying to get up a grassey slope and seemed to have the front wheels spinning, wasn't loaded so weight of landy was basic. Had the TC light on, in low range and making the buzzing noise but just would spin. The other 3 wheels wernt turning.

From what I've been reading, its due to not having the cdl connected up and traction control would be putting power to wheel with least resistance. Just wanted to confirm form someone who knows if this would be the case or it it could be something else which could be fixed.

Just a little gutted as was hoping having the d2 would help me get anywhere compared to my previous 4x4.
 
traction control would be putting power to wheel with least resistance.
Hi, TC doesnt put power on any wheel, in a nutshell: it's supposed to apply brake on the spinning wheel to engage the axle's diff and equalise the wheel speeds, largely explained in the WSM(attached)... it used to misbehave if the brake pads are unevenly worn, the wheels are more than 5% bigger than standard, there is a missballance between the sensor inputs or if there is air trapped in the modulator which happens if the fluid was changed without power bleeding it after with diagnostic tool, also there is a technique to get the best out of it which means constant throttle, it doesnt react well to rev changes.... there is a section called "driving techniques" in the owner's manual better check it
 

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Hi, TC doesnt put power on any wheel, in a nutshell: it's supposed to apply brake on the spinning wheel to engage the axle's diff and equalise the wheel speeds, largely explained in the WSM(attached)... it used to misbehave if the brake pads are unevenly worn, the wheels are more than 5% bigger than standard, there is a missballance between the sensor inputs or if there is air trapped in the modulator which happens if the fluid was changed without power bleeding it after with diagnostic tool, also there is a technique to get the best out of it which means constant throttle, it doesnt react well to rev changes.... there is a section called "driving techniques" in the owner's manual better check it
Thank you for that and coming back to me, I had thought about maybe sending you a message as you were so helpful before.

That's an interesting read which you have sent me there, i do wonder if the etc isn't working properly or maybe due to me trying to put some revs it didn't like it as I never had that light come on. Its a shame they have removed the diff lock.
 
(Your profile says you have a Freelander 2 but you mention a D2.)
It depends on which year it is whether you can reconnect up any CDL which may still be lying dormant in your transfer box.
Plenty of info on here about doing it. As long as you do have one there!
 
(Your profile says you have a Freelander 2 but you mention a D2.)
It depends on which year it is whether you can reconnect up any CDL which may still be lying dormant in your transfer box.
Plenty of info on here about doing it. As long as you do have one there!
Sorry I hadn't updated it, I've changed to a discovery 2 now after many issues with the freelander 2 when came to taking the sheep trailer out.

It's a 10p engine, if I've read things right there's a high chance it may have the linkage but would need to investigate properly
 
Sorry I hadn't updated it, I've changed to a discovery 2 now after many issues with the freelander 2 when came to taking the sheep trailer out.

It's a 10p engine, if I've read things right there's a high chance it may have the linkage but would need to investigate properly
It will have the selector and diff lock in the box but you would need to rig a mechanism to engage it.
There are posts all over the internet about how to do it, it isn't difficult.
Received wisdom is that, due to the TC, it is better to engage it before starting and driving away otherwise the TC's ECU gets its knickers in a twist, but @sierrafery will correct this I am sure as I never give enough detail and sometimes get it wrong!
There are other things you need ton be aware of to do with things like tyre size etc.
 
I am by no means a Disco eggsquirt.

But, my observation's.

You say the ETC light was on but yet still spinning a wheel.
What year is your car, as from the Doc posted there are differences in the response, if you have CDL (which you sound like you dont, at least on the lever in the cab) so not relevant here.

So, I am saying maybe you need to look at the braking side of the ETC as the light was on and you mention "buzzing". (you haven't mentioned what tyre size you are running).

J
 
I am by no means a Disco eggsquirt.

But, my observation's.

You say the ETC light was on but yet still spinning a wheel.
What year is your car, as from the Doc posted there are differences in the response, if you have CDL (which you sound like you dont, at least on the lever in the cab) so not relevant here.

So, I am saying maybe you need to look at the braking side of the ETC as the light was on and you mention "buzzing". (you haven't mentioned what tyre size you are running).

J
The buzzing noise happens and the TC light comes on when the TC is activated, but yes by all means why not do some brake testing to see what happens?

My experience, which is limited, is that you have to rev it a lot before TC actually does some good although the light and noise may come on. In fact on mine both come on at low speeds when more or less just manoeuvring on wet grass going up the slope to drive off our land, turning slightly to the left. Only sometimes mind. I think the inside wheel might spin just a tiny tad.
The one time I did want it to work, it didn't and I had to be pushed, but then I was on council grass and didn't want to rev it and tear up the grass. :rolleyes:
 
The buzzing noise happens and the TC light comes on when the TC is activated, but yes by all means why not do some brake testing to see what happens?

My point eggactley .
It sounds like the ETC is trying to do something, but not.

I will just watch now ;).

J
 
I am by no means a Disco eggsquirt.

But, my observation's.

You say the ETC light was on but yet still spinning a wheel.
What year is your car, as from the Doc posted there are differences in the response, if you have CDL (which you sound like you dont, at least on the lever in the cab) so not relevant here.

So, I am saying maybe you need to look at the braking side of the ETC as the light was on and you mention "buzzing". (you haven't mentioned what tyre size you are running).

J
Thank you for your response, Sorry the ETC light wasnt on, never seen it come on. I only get the TC with the buzz. The car is 2001.

i'm running 245/65/16, not sure if the previous owner when had the ecu done if the tyre sizes had been changed within
 
It will have the selector and diff lock in the box but you would need to rig a mechanism to engage it.
There are posts all over the internet about how to do it, it isn't difficult.
Received wisdom is that, due to the TC, it is better to engage it before starting and driving away otherwise the TC's ECU gets its knickers in a twist, but @sierrafery will correct this I am sure as I never give enough detail and sometimes get it wrong!
There are other things you need ton be aware of to do with things like tyre size etc.
I don't have the option for diff lock on the selector so best case would be having to install some mechanism to do so. I'll have a look underneath later this week and see if it has it or not. The person I got it off said it has but without looking who knows!
 
I don't have the option for diff lock on the selector so best case would be having to install some mechanism to do so. I'll have a look underneath later this week and see if it has it or not. The person I got it off said it has but without looking who knows!
I think we are mixing our terms up.
By "selector" I meant the mechanism below the top plate that slides back and forward, left and right. You will have only the back and forward for hi-lo in the CAB, but the selector mechanism itself for diff lock will be lying dormant in the box. It will be selectable via the bit of mechanism on the top of the box, which isn't connected to the lever.
On D1s the lever would go back and forward and left to select diff lock, your lever won't go left, which is why you'll need to make up an independent lever or something to select DL.
I think from about the facelift date, i.e. about 2002 they removed the works in the box to give you diff lock, but yours is older than that so should have it.
 
just confirm: the TC warning light is missing even after you turn ignition on??? according to your reply we'll speak again
Sorry for the late reply, been away from the laptop.

No the TC light comes on along with the buzz from the dash when the wheel starts to spin but I don't get anything else coming up on the dash. Have I miss read some things in terms of the ETC having a light as well?
 
I think we are mixing our terms up.
By "selector" I meant the mechanism below the top plate that slides back and forward, left and right. You will have only the back and forward for hi-lo in the CAB, but the selector mechanism itself for diff lock will be lying dormant in the box. It will be selectable via the bit of mechanism on the top of the box, which isn't connected to the lever.
On D1s the lever would go back and forward and left to select diff lock, your lever won't go left, which is why you'll need to make up an independent lever or something to select DL.
I think from about the facelift date, i.e. about 2002 they removed the works in the box to give you diff lock, but yours is older than that so should have it.

I'll investigate this further, thank you
 
Sorry for the late reply, been away from the laptop.

No the TC light comes on along with the buzz from the dash when the wheel starts to spin but I don't get anything else coming up on the dash. Have I miss read some things in terms of the ETC having a light as well?
Big misunderstanding cos ETC or TC are one and the same thing, LR called it officially ETC but it became TC for owners as it's simper to express but at the end both are "(electronic) traction control" so as lon as the (E)TC warning comes on with the buzzing means that the traction controll function is activated by the ECU and if it doesnt do it's job as it was conceived to can be due to lack of driving technique or system misbehaviour which can be caused by air in the modulator or uneven brake pads wear... also there are aaftermarket hubs on the market with the wrong number or teeth o the ring and if one of these is fitted while the others are good ones the whole system is mixed up
 
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