Disco 2 Spigot bearing change - possible to do on a drive?

DaveM-sport said:

If doing a clutch on a driveway or without a lift, it's much easier to just pull the engine out unless you need to take the gearbox or transfer box out for another reason too.


I've made up a little bracket for my gearbox jack that bolts to the underside of the R380 where the three threaded holes are.

Means I can move the gearbox and transfer box about under the Defender or Discovery with it being kept left and not wobbling around.

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One of my kit cars has a dreadful habit of getting its clutch stuck on. Over the winter. I used to prop the clutch open by wedging a bit of wood against the clutch pedal. but I stopped doing it as I didn't think it would do the mechanism much good.
As it is so light, the conventional and not -so conventional methods just don't work. So I have got practised at taking the engine and gearbox out by dropping them together on the floor then lifting the chassis-body up and sliding them out. The hardest part is separating the twin carbs/inlet manif/exhaust manif off the engine. Very fiddly. Engine bay is very tight.
The gearbox won't come off from underneath as once you tip the engine back/down it hits the bulkhead before you can remove the box. Otherwise it'd be a piece of pistachio

Stanleysteamer said:

Good on you!
Even the pro with the lift told me he took the tranny box off too. It's just to damn awkward without. And he put a new seal on it.
All this cos it was leaking ATF cos the bolts to the box from the TC housing were a tiny bit loose!
Over a bleeding grand!

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I'm now looking at doing the rest 1/3 chassis replacement this summer but I think I'll get a couple of strong friends around and buy them a few beers and chips

PurityVendetta said:

I'm now looking at doing the rest 1/3 chassis replacement this summer but I think I'll get a couple of strong friends around and buy them a few beers and chips

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and have lots of Weetabix and cans of spinach ready too!!

hardest job is getting the fuel out, the tanks easy, then cut the rear member off to reduce the weight, then measure to your cut point, then cut it 120 mm/6 inch short, then cut the side member, once you have the new chassis section remeasure and trim the side member so you have a good fit up

frostythor said:

the tanks easy,

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Tell that to the bloke who did my chassis! A local indy. He really struggled for some reason and he has done loads before.
I am not sure but I have a funny feeling he holed it or summat cos I took the carpet out to make it easier for him to take the pipes off etc. and when we got it back there was lettering on it near the pipes that I did not remember from the original!
At least he didn't charge me any more!!!

frostythor said:

hardest job is getting the fuel out, the tanks easy, then cut the rear member off to reduce the weight, then measure to your cut point, then cut it 120 mm/6 inch short, then cut the side member, once you have the new chassis section remeasure and trim the side member so you have a good fit up

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Yes, I remember when we dropped the tank to do some welding. We thought we'd run the fuel leven really low but the thing still weighed a ton. Ended up with it on a trolley jack using my knees to force it into place. Nearly killed me!!!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351224155008?epid=2301006042&hash=item51c6974b80:g:1VcAAOSwbCRfxRM1

Get a cheap slide hammer... then grind one of the 90deg fittings short, so it fits inside the bush. Two taps and its out. Saves so many swear words.