martyuk
Well-Known Member
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- 824
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- Swindon, UK
Hi Marty thanks for the info, been tinkering today only just seen it now.
My pins didnt arrive yet for the plug,so i havnt been able to make 2 wires into 4 from the head unit. once i have I will crimp a terminal on each wire and put them in the plug in the pin location.
Up to now so far so good. after a bit more fiddling I now have all front bass mid and tweeters working and centre dash speaker.My guess is the centre dash speaker is wired in the loom to the existing front speaker loom.
The steering controls work volume and seek.
On the head unit balance, treble and bass all work as they should.
So for now well happy sounds good as it is. and for a £35 fix bargain.
I have noted fyi that on my rear door speakers the mid and tweeter are on the same wire loom, so my guess is that if i put the wire from the range rover loom mid, to the bmw tweeter pins( as bmw has no mid rear speakers pin only rear tweeter) then that should get the mid and tweeter working on the rear doors.
I also suspect the small speakers either side of the parcel shelf may work as well,as they also may be wired in the loom.
I will update again when I have done the above.
This will just the sub to check out,and the sat nav voice,is there any way to utilize the phone input output lines for the sat nav voice or the phone mute line,or the little seperate 3 wire phone loom I have at the rear on its own plug,it would keep it tidy if this can be done as opposed to a carphone speaker at the front for the nav voice.
Is there anything required for the cd player to work head says no disc,so maybe it sees the cd changer player but not loading the discs,night be the changer.
Cheers
Hi Simon,
Glad you are making some progress...
I didn't have a chance to look at some of the other links you posted as yet (work has been a lot busier than I expected!) but the pinout document I drew up before was based on the original info that I downloaded from the original link, It shows the BMW system as having an output for rear mid speakers on the last 2 pins - so if wiring them to the tweeter output doesn't work, then it might be worth looking into switching them around and you will probably get full range audio out of the other pins. I suspected that your RR's tweeters in the rear doors would be wired in parallel to the mid range speaker, as they do in the front doors. In the front doors, the tweeter has a capacitor in the wiring to filter out the mid-range frequencies already, so don't see why the rear doors would be any different.
Parcel shelf speakers... not sure if they will be paired up with the rear door speakers, or if they will have some extra outputs from the DSP amp or not. None of the wiring diagrams I've seen show pinouts for the limited edition models that had the extra speakers.
The sub should be easy enough - as per my pinout document, the P38 has a signal input and output to/from the DSP amplifier. If you remove the 4 wires (2x Orange, 2x Orange/Black) and join the respective colours together, then you will most likely get the sub working as the signal feed will then come straight from the head unit to the subwoofer amp. Connecting the DSP signal wire (Pink/Black) may mess that up, because of how the P38 system works, but that being said - not having that wire connected leaves the head unit in a default mode where it does all the signal control internally (rather than
the DSP amp handling it - and then your E46 amp is then just a slave amplifier effectively)
Sat Nav - I am not sure about the E46 system as to whether there was factory navigation or not. If there is a version with factory nav and the pinouts are about for that version of the amp (I will look at your other info aswell when I get the chance to see if I can find any more out) then in theory you could just wire the P38 navigation into the replacement amp. The pinouts I looked at showed no sign of extra inputs for navigation or a phone, but that doesn't mean to say there isn't a DSP amp out there which isn't able to be retrofitted that has these inputs.
CD stacker should work as normal, as it interfaces with the head unit, rather than the DSP amp.
Hope this helps, and looking forward to hearing your progress,
Marty