Sparking problems

That’s a really good point about the coil. You could never get away with fitting patterned parts to a range rover.
I would put them on the crypton and difference in the Plug kv’s and the general running was unbelievable. I would always fit dealer cap, arm and leads and coil if needed.
The one thing I never fitted though was the champion plugs. Their days have gone. If I ever had one running rough we would laugh that it had champion plugs fitted and low and behold.
Gas definitely doesn’t like champion. You need NGK.
If you have champion fitted give yourself a head start. Take them all out and put them in the bin.
Sorry going off on one. Some other points: The Pick and base plate in the dizzy could have moved and the air gap is too large so it’s not triggering properly. So going back to Irish rovers point you could try another dizzy.
With everything connected and with the engine turning over, does it try to fire or does it just wind over as if there is no ignition system?
The ignition module gets a hiding when the vehicles running rough and overheats. The heat sink paste on the back either washes away dries up or wasn’t put there in the first place.
What are the plugs like?

If I was ever playing with a classic that was running rich or rough, I had about 10 minutes worth of running or cranking in which to sort it out. By this time the plugs would become fouled and it wouldn’t run right even if you had fixed the fault. When the plugs foul, they start to fire in the throat of the plug and not across the electrode.
Also is the coil getting a good power supply? It should be battery volts. If there is too much of a voltage drop on cranking because of a worn starter motor or faulty cables then the coil suffers. It could be the difference between 12 volts ignition on and 9 volts cranking.
Without test kit you could get round this by trying a tow start.

The story so far! I have had the carbs balanced and set up for the MOT (now out of date), was purring along. It was left to stand for a couple of days (she saw me driving a 90 of my friends), and since then has not even hinted at wanting to go. I have cleaned up all the electrical terminals, replaced the Amp,Coil, Leads, Cap, Rotor arm, and I am running out of ideas. I have tried to sweet talk her but to no avail!!! Typical womans mentality really.

the leads are genuine parts, alongwith all the other parts. Spark plugs are NGK.

YEE HAA, sorted it. I removed the lead from the coil to the distributor and turned it around and success ( I didnt know that electrons only flow one way up a wire), she purrs like a kitten again. Thanks for all the good advice!!!!

Glad you are sorted..great stuff. You certainly got a few heads scratched!! Thanks for updating everyone, you never know, some other poor sod may change a set of leads and be in the same boat as you were.:doh:

That’s great that you sorted it out. The Ht leads do not restrict flow in any one direction though. The King lead has different ends and depending on how deep the neck of the coil is, the lead doesn’t make contact. Swapping it around made a good contact.
It’s good that your grief is over.

Nice to hear it is sorted. You might want to consider quickly taking each lead off and giving the ends a drop of WD or similar. A short spray into the tops of the dizzy cap does no harm, if you take it swimming you could use vaseline or grease to keep the water out. You should also check your leads every now and then as corrosion builds up where they go into the dizzy cap and also onto the plugs (or is that just mine?).