sorry me again, td5 auto vibration at 2k rpm....

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Hi Discoverytd5es, If it's any help, mine vibrates at those revs and always has done. I think I read this happens a lot. It hasn't got worse and is not a real problem. I also checked out the same stuff as you did. Once had a Renault 17 with a really annoying engine vibration that came in at exactly 70 mph! Took it to garage which simply said "yeah, they all do it!" (This was back in the 80s.)
5 cylinder engines must be pigs to balance. Have you checked or replaced the engine mounts? Obvious, I know! My truck has done 150k plus by the way. There are far more annoying things that will need sorting out on a TD5.
I have just had to remove the (warped) exhaust manifold and get it reground. That was the easiest part! The pig was sorting out the broken studs. If you can, get to it NOW remove the nuts, get it ground flat, enlarge the holes in the manifold to give it room to move if necessary and then put it back on. Cylinders 1 & 5 need drilling 2 mm bigger, cyls 2 & 4 1 mm bigger. There are kits on the market you can get to sort this out which give you longer studs and spacer washer-type things. I'd also recommend testing and/or changing the MAF. Mine drinks the diesel it's an auto, so yes to be expected, but even so! When I got it I discovered it had been chipped, and was thus more economical, but sadly, when taking the red plug off the ECU (ECM) I dropped it and it would not work again, so I had to get another. DO NOT DO THIS!
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Hi Discoverytd5es, If it's any help, mine vibrates at those revs and always has done. I think I read this happens a lot. It hasn't got worse and is not a real problem. I also checked out the same stuff as you did. Once had a Renault 17 with a really annoying engine vibration that came in at exactly 70 mph! Took it to garage which simply said "yeah, they all do it!" (This was back in the 80s.)
5 cylinder engines must be pigs to balance. Have you checked or replaced the engine mounts? Obvious, I know! My truck has done 150k plus by the way. There are far more annoying things that will need sorting out on a TD5.
I have just had to remove the (warped) exhaust manifold and get it reground. That was the easiest part! The pig was sorting out the broken studs. If you can, get to it NOW remove the nuts, get it ground flat, enlarge the holes in the manifold to give it room to move if necessary and then put it back on. Cylinders 1 & 5 need drilling 2 mm bigger, cyls 2 & 4 1 mm bigger. There are kits on the market you can get to sort this out which give you longer studs and spacer washer-type things. I'd also recommend testing and/or changing the MAF. Mine drinks the diesel it's an auto, so yes to be expected, but even so! When I got it I discovered it had been chipped, and was thus more economical, but sadly, when taking the red plug off the ECU (ECM) I dropped it and it would not work again, so I had to get another. DO NOT DO THIS!
Click to expand...
Sorry accidentally clicked on "post", hadn't finished! If you bust the ECM, the one you have to buy from the breakers will not run with your car, it need to be programmed with the numbers off the injectors and then persuaded to speak to the BCU. Only someone with a
 
NOT AGAIN?! There must be a combination of keys that makes it post like this. Anyway...as I was saying. New ECM needs a bit of work with a nanocom or a Hawkeye, or a Land Rover garage. And if the latter, as I had to do, it took 2 mates, a trailer, a winch and two Land Rovers to manoeuvre the dead one down the drive, onto the road, onto the trailer and off to the garage. Fortunately they fixed it fast and only charged 1/4 hours Labour. Shout out for Bournemouth Land Rover who are really decent.
If I can think of anything else to look out for, apart from chassis rust that is, lol! I'll post. Best of luck!
 
discoverytd5es said:
tried cleaning contacts on starter today and it made no difference, so im happy that the repair kit will be the thing to fix it! realised today that the vibration noise only really happens at about 2200rpm to 2500rpm so i'll live with it for now :)
Click to expand...
...er what kit is this? Why get it?, what does it do, please?
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Hi Discoverytd5es, If it's any help, mine vibrates at those revs and always has done. I think I read this happens a lot. It hasn't got worse and is not a real problem. I also checked out the same stuff as you did. Once had a Renault 17 with a really annoying engine vibration that came in at exactly 70 mph! Took it to garage which simply said "yeah, they all do it!" (This was back in the 80s.)
5 cylinder engines must be pigs to balance. Have you checked or replaced the engine mounts? Obvious, I know! My truck has done 150k plus by the way. There are far more annoying things that will need sorting out on a TD5.
I have just had to remove the (warped) exhaust manifold and get it reground. That was the easiest part! The pig was sorting out the broken studs. If you can, get to it NOW remove the nuts, get it ground flat, enlarge the holes in the manifold to give it room to move if necessary and then put it back on. Cylinders 1 & 5 need drilling 2 mm bigger, cyls 2 & 4 1 mm bigger. There are kits on the market you can get to sort this out which give you longer studs and spacer washer-type things. I'd also recommend testing and/or changing the MAF. Mine drinks the diesel it's an auto, so yes to be expected, but even so! When I got it I discovered it had been chipped, and was thus more economical, but sadly, when taking the red plug off the ECU (ECM) I dropped it and it would not work again, so I had to get another. DO NOT DO THIS!
Click to expand...
Sorry accidentally clicked on "post", hadn't finished! If you bust the ECM, the one you have to buy from the breakers will not run with your car, it need to be programmed with the numbers off the injectors and then persuaded to speak to the BCU. Only someone with a
 
seems like we all have the same problem with these cars, i sometimes ask why we love them so much! today i found myself on my back in the rain tapping the starter motor so it would fire up, still with a smile on my face haha, i must be going crazy!

the kit to fix the starter is on ebay, comes with all the contact points etc and as far as im aware can be kind of done with the starter still on the car! (i hope!) it cost me £14 posted and apparently fixes all known issues with these d2 starters.
the vibration seems to be something i can live with for now, ive many other things to do first seeing as tho it seems the vibration isnt something to be worried about.

this week ive got a full service kit to do, EGR delete, clean MAF and MAP sensor and inlet, new thermostat and coolant and new starter contacts. i swear next week better be a trouble free week! (i can but dream!)
 
UPDATE!

so today i deleted the stupid EGR and cleaned the map sensor (if you havnt done this to your TD5 then DO IT RIGHT NOW!! what a difference!!!)
but...i had to take of the acoustic engine cover to do the job, and the 2000rpm noise has pretty much gone! i did notice the cover was sat funny and wasnt fitted correctly and the soundproofing on the firewall was tucked into it at the back,it must have been vibrating through the firewall at certain RPM! so taking it off has fixed it for me!!
so if youre having trouble with vibrations at 2krpm its a possible easy fix and easy to check as youre only undoing 3x 10mm bolts and removing the cover! :)
 
discoverytd5es said:
UPDATE!

so today i deleted the stupid EGR and cleaned the map sensor (if you havnt done this to your TD5 then DO IT RIGHT NOW!! what a difference!!!)
but...i had to take of the acoustic engine cover to do the job, and the 2000rpm noise has pretty much gone! i did notice the cover was sat funny and wasnt fitted correctly and the soundproofing on the firewall was tucked into it at the back,it must have been vibrating through the firewall at certain RPM! so taking it off has fixed it for me!!
so if youre having trouble with vibrations at 2krpm its a possible easy fix and easy to check as youre only undoing 3x 10mm bolts and removing the cover! :)
Click to expand...

Does deleting the egr make that much of a difference? I’ve been planning to do mine and have been spraying the bolts on the egr and exhaust fixing with penetration fluid for the last few weeks in anticipation of getting to do this.
 
honestly mate, it made a big difference to my d2! the gunk that was in the inlet was crazy, the map sensor was caked in old oil.
theres literally no benefit in having the egr hooked up, delete it, and if its anything like my td5 engine....it will basically fall off (like the oil filter that was loose, the centrifuge filter housing cap that was loose and the boost pipe clip that was loose!)
 
Some will say that it made the difference between chalk and cheese, others like me will say that there was no noticeable change.
I think it could be due to how much the EGR valve is obstructing the airflow from the intercooler to the inlet manifold. If it is "all gunked up" and therefore restricting the airflow then I'd say that there might be other things you need to address, not least why the EGR valve is in such a state. That amount of crap could mean that the inlet manifold needs to be cleaned out as well as the intercooler. It could be that there's a problem in your turbo allowing oily gasses to be drawn in and messing up the EGR valve.
It could also be a problem with the exhaust gasses being too oily and messing things up there.
The only reason why I removed mine was that I couldn't for the life of me see the benefit of trying to burn already burnt gasses.
 
yeah thats very true mate, everything has since been taken off and fully cleaned, the cars a bit of a rolling restoration so its getting the full treatment with everything i do. i think the poor old girl has never had a proper service even to the book suggests it has.....so im doing EVERYTHING to it, new bushes, bearings, oils and filters etc
 
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