Some advice please

KTMRider said:

What did the oil lights do on your other cars,??? after an oil change wif filter yes, normal no. Three seconds, fook me I would have a panic attack if mine took that time every day.

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Old Rover V8 I had in a TR7 used to be similar, I've not paid much attention of late as I've been driving company cars for the last few years,
You've scared the S*** out of me now though.......
Best check the pressure, as I spose that's the only way of knowing for sure, by the time the lights on full time it'll be too late.[/quote]

It's not uncommon for to be running wif low oil pressure with the light out cause the switches are not built for the space shuttle. most peeps that push their motors always fit a pressure guage as well, it tells you so much more, so if yer dont have a tester, buy a kit and run wif a perm oil guage.

The stag had a **** engine, the tr7 was also **** in every way and was the end of the decent tr's and I don't know what enjun it had in, but everybody ripped the stag engun out and fitted a rover cause it was bullit proof.

I had a tr4, part from the lucas injecshun and a tendancy to wear out thrust bearings on the crank it was all right. oh, mah wire wheels kept coming loose and it rusted to fook, and the soft top was ****, and it was noisy and cold, but it was ok in the summer, 2 weeks of the year.

And the overdrive kept ****in up, bit like a landie really, but I loved it to bits.

Got an slk merc now, but only gets to play in the good wever. The disco is the go anywhere bus, an it's brill too.

The 4 cyl rover engines run with quite a high oil pressure as normal 50-60lbs
The rover V8 runs with fairly low oil pressure
On a hot day after hard use and a with a few miles on the clock the V8 will if at low idle speed quite often flas the oil light.
The 4 cyl definately should not.
Get a guage on it to verify faulty transmitter.
If transmitter is verified as OK then you need to look at main/big end bearings with particular attention to thrust bearings. Thse can wear most if done lot of foot on clutch work (eg town driving)
V8 its usually rocker shaft wear drops the oil pressure first. JMHO HTSH

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The stag had a **** engine, the tr7 was also **** in every way and was the end of the decent tr's and I don't know what enjun it had in,

I think it had a 2.0 16v Sprint engine if I remember right, but they where a bit prone to head problems, hence the Rover swap to make it a psuedo TR8.
You're right they where ****, but I couldn't afford a TVR!!!
Improved it as best I could, some bloke in Devon driving it now, still got the red crushed velvet interior, my wife used to call it the pimp mobile
Like your TR4 I still loved it despite it's faults.

Thanks for the advice very much appreciated, fingers crossed my pressure hasn't dropped too low.

On a hot day after hard use and a with a few miles on the clock the V8 will if at low idle speed quite often flas the oil light.
The 4 cyl definately should not.
Get a guage on it to verify faulty transmitter.

Will do, thanks, light doesn't flash just takes 2-3 seconds to go out when started from cold.
Goes out straight away when warm.
For the long term I think I'll fit a pressure gauge, assuming I can afford one after my engine goes bang

ive got a similar problem with my retrofitted 200tdi, the oil light flickers on tickover sometimes but not always, but is never on perm and never on at any revs.

should i be worried? will a change of oil + filter help?

Well I tested the oil pressure, and it showed 2.6 Bars at idle when warm, rising to well over 3 when revved (couldn't see the gauge very well when pressing the pedal!) Haynes gives a range of 1.7-3.8 Bars.
I replaced the sensor but it still hesitates slightly before going out from cold, and goes out straight away when warm, I didn't have the gauge on when cold twas a bit of a ball ache getting it on.

So, it would appear my pressure is ok (125k miles) but, why would it be taking longer for the pressure to get the light to go out when cold surely the oil is thicker when cold?
Should I still be concerned, david 451 mentioned a 'Panic Attack' if his oil light didn't go out straight away....?

I wouldn't be at all worried about the symptom that you've got on an engine with that mileage. Just don't rev the balls off it when it's cold.

would u say the same to me trewy??! im worried about whether i should be worried!

And I'm worried that I'm not worried!!!

If it's still flickering on tickover when warm then I'd be a little more worried.
First thing to try is an oil and filter change with a good flush.
You could try slightly thicker oil, which sometimes helps on higher mileage engines (e.g. 15/50 instead of 10/40).

wot should i be worried about?

The Mad Hat Man said:

wot should i be worried about?

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ffs, are you having another Senior moment?

i dunno.

The Mad Hat Man said:

wot should i be worried about?

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Bending over in front ov Grippa

iz not the bendin over - its the straightenin up after.

KTMRider said:

Well I tested the oil pressure, and it showed 2.6 Bars at idle when warm, rising to well over 3 when revved (couldn't see the gauge very well when pressing the pedal!) Haynes gives a range of 1.7-3.8 Bars.
I replaced the sensor but it still hesitates slightly before going out from cold, and goes out straight away when warm, I didn't have the gauge on when cold twas a bit of a ball ache getting it on.

So, it would appear my pressure is ok (125k miles) but, why would it be taking longer for the pressure to get the light to go out when cold surely the oil is thicker when cold?
Should I still be concerned, david 451 mentioned a 'Panic Attack' if his oil light didn't go out straight away....?

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Three seconds or so is quite a long time, considering it has just started doing this, you did the right thing testing it, now you know that your oil pressure is ok. If you consider when after an oil change it has to fill the filter back up then two to three seconds is about a litre of oil before the light goes out.

Probably the reason that it does it cold is that it's more a time thing other than cold oil. I imagine that your oil is draining back and that your oil pump is having to prime the system each time.

Can't remember exactly how the valve in the filter head works, but I think one of it's jobs is to stop the oil draining back, it is possible that it is not shutting off properly. Sometimes they get scored and stick, sometimes with total loss of oil Pressure, the guy on a 4x4 is born had this problem and kept fooking about with it rather than changing the filter head, probably close to costing him an engine as well.

Not trying to frighten you though just giving you all my thoughts, but worth checking out, perhaps I'm wrong.

I had the Same thing from a s/h engine from a well known 4x4 company the same company that supplies me with a s/h gearbox with teeth missing from reverse gear! Someone fitted a 3Mb oil pump gear onto a 5Mb oil pump different size spigots ran it for 3 years till the oil light came and run the shells out coming home from a offroad comp. Changed the shells, pulled down the oil pump couldn't believe what someone had done. Fitted a Tdi now though.