solid engine
- Thread starter Sherrin
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Carrington224
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- 2,816
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- Lincolnshire
Try turning the engine backwards by the crank pulley, if it turns backwards I reckon the cambelt is bust.
Ok, I got a dose of that too.
Crank goes round almost 180, but locks on the roll over, Timing cover off, fuel pump is ok,timing, cam seems 1 tooth out, crank ok. When turn over forward and back i've got a clunk at the stop point.....Head off i suppose...unless theres something else to look at FIRST?? TA ALL
Crank goes round almost 180, but locks on the roll over, Timing cover off, fuel pump is ok,timing, cam seems 1 tooth out, crank ok. When turn over forward and back i've got a clunk at the stop point.....Head off i suppose...unless theres something else to look at FIRST?? TA ALL
Well a sunday under a landy.........Who hasn't been there before...er i hadn't.......So sump un-done, moved aside and this is what i found.....
Looks like someone...NOT ME......didn't torque the rod up!!!!!!!
Bore looks ok, journal too......OH and while i was groping in the sump i found what looks like a shapped banjo bolt.......ANYONE got a clue where that came from??....Please????
Looks like someone...NOT ME......didn't torque the rod up!!!!!!!
Bore looks ok, journal too......OH and while i was groping in the sump i found what looks like a shapped banjo bolt.......ANYONE got a clue where that came from??....Please????
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jamesmartin
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- 91,879
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- louth lincs
oil squirts have banjo bolts ,they spray oil on under side of piston
Under i go again then with a torch, this time.........Tomorrow........not getting black again today......Oh and the injector pump seems a little too far forward......it has ground a couple o mill. of the pulley against the front cover.....what the hell have they done to that??
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
any pics
I assume the engine has been rebuilt by someone rather than still being factory sealed? Did the con rod end cap come off? if so did the nut come loose or the bolt(s) snap? If the bolt snapped it may have been over-torqued on fit and it may be worth considering changing them all in case there are more that have been over-torqued/weakened. If it was just the nuts unwinding change the bolts/nuts on that rod and check all the rest are correctly torqued (including main bearing caps) at a minimum.
Not sure if it can be done but do the cam and pump pulleys look the same? They are both the same part number but one should be fitted back-to-front so the 'face' of one pulley faces forward and the other faces towards the block.
If you PM me with you email address I can send you a copy of the 300tdi service manual and parts list
The nuts had un-wound themselves, no broken bolts, but the rod and cap are trash, HOW THE HELL could anyone not hear the cap coming of!? Got a 2nd hand rod and piston coming, will probably put all new shells in for peace of mind, and can re-torque the whole bottom end.
Use your original piston if you can as you know that will be the correct size for the bore. As you are changing the rod you will also need to measure piston protrusion above block surface (so that you can select correct head gasket thickness)
PM also sent
PM also sent
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HI, Yes manuals came through , MANY thanks,
Re-looked at pulleys with fresh eyes and it was only the belt that had not been fitted properly and rubbed down. Also looked at the journal and i will have to get the dremel out and delicatly polish out a couple of dinks
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WISH ME LUCK.
Are the jet/mist banjos loctited or just torqued? And where best to get a new brass push rod seat (that sits on top of the roller disc), Main stealer or ?????
Re-looked at pulleys with fresh eyes and it was only the belt that had not been fitted properly and rubbed down. Also looked at the journal and i will have to get the dremel out and delicatly polish out a couple of dinks
.WISH ME LUCK.
Are the jet/mist banjos loctited or just torqued? And where best to get a new brass push rod seat (that sits on top of the roller disc), Main stealer or ?????
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
oil squirt banjos are best loctited and carefully done up ,its not unknow for them to snap before recommended torque brass follower is err607
HI, Yes manuals came through , MANY thanks,
Re-looked at pulleys with fresh eyes and it was only the belt that had not been fitted properly and rubbed down. Also looked at the journal and i will have to get the dremel out and delicatly polish out a couple of dinks
WISH ME LUCK.
Are the jet/mist banjos loctited or just torqued? And where best to get a new brass push rod seat (that sits on top of the roller disc), Main stealer or ?????
Cant really comment on tappet slide as I've never needed to change one, prices seem to vary but be sub £10 for replacement pattern part (not sure of genuine item price). From memory it is a head off job to replace them so choose by quality rather than price if you can, if you need to revisit it for any reason a cost of replacement head gasket would soon eliminate any savings made
