Snake oils ?

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All this sort of thing is bull****.

Just use standard oil, standard coolant and normal fuel and just change all 3 regularly.

It's deffo snake oil.
 
When you've drained all of your water from the cooling system, fill it up with CocaCola and warm the engine up. o_Oo_Oo_O
That will get rid of all the nasties which collect in there ... including emulsified oil. :cool::cool:
Drain it all off and throroughly flush through, and you will be so amazed that you might even stand back in amazement (or in a puddlle of warm coke in case you forgot to put the dish in the right place!) :oops::oops:
You see that this just goes to prove that LZ'ers are not only there to help, but also to extract the urine ;);)
 
Hi to all (just got back from a lake district tour) I've read all your replies (and insults) so lets cut to the chase .. firstly i was given this in a jar (unmarked) by a friend who has used it for over a year ( he did tell me the name) he swears by it so I thought Ok I'll try it, after all I had nothing to lose, to be honest its like your vehicle just come back from a service it, always seems better (smoother) but as some of you know most of this is psychological so I am unsure as to the result.
(TD5s do not have the benefit of fuel consumption computers)
Would it be fair to assume by some of the comments that some have used it and are speaking from experience , a generalisation or jumping on a bandwagon.
I would be interested to find out .
 
It's all bollocks, very old, disgraced technology that someone 'found again', when the reason it originally went away was that it never actually worked as expected.

There's some thought that for a static application, as per the demo's at exhibitions, where a single bearing and wear face is running, then adding this to it's regular oil or lubrication does produce benefits. Where it falls down is when it's heated and gives off toxic, corrosive fumes (Can't remember what), which pretty obviously precludes it's use in engines ....

I wouldn't touch it.
 
Oil in coolant is going to reduce cooling properties.

If you get a pan of water and heat it, just before it boils you will see big bubbles of air at the bottom of the pan, this is because the surface tension of water is quite high, those bubbles are actually a problem when trying to boil water because that surface area of the pan that is in contact with air is not making contact with the water... see the issue, we want all water in contact with the pan to boil our water ASAP.

Although oil has lower surface tension than water it will act as a separater between the engine and the water as it will stick to the inside of the cooling galleries which means, like our pan of water the water is not in full contact with the engine, this can cause hot spots and generally reduced cooling.

Coolants have surface tension reducers in them to get the water as close to the engine as possible. A drop of washing up liquid will also do this, in fact it is a good idea after you have done any engine work that involves the cooling system possibly getting contaminated with oil, such as head off work etc. to put a drop in.
 
I would say that good quality oil, and coolant with the correct quantity of anti freeze, is all that you need.
The better oils have additives already in them.
The water pump bearings will not be lubricated by oil in the coolant. If coolant has reached the bearings you need a new water pump!
 
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