smoking engine advice

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jamesmartin said:
easily after a few months let alone 4 years though depends on its circumstances ,before removing head drain block by removing brass bung on exhaust side of engine half way on block,you can feel very worn engine 1 cm down bore on passenger side ,re
bore usually £120 plus vat pistons £20 each ish ,bores are bored and honed to suit new pistons ,you cant just fit new pistons in old bores
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Thanks for your further helpful info, once the brass bung is removed how do we feel for the worn engine? The rebore/piston/rings will be done if needed as we want to do a propper job lol.

In your opinion would this job (if needed) cost more than a 200 tdi engine?

Many thanks again sir.
 
depends what you get 200 tdi for they were about £200 but more now i believe,if you can feel a step even very slight ,its more work to fit 200 but probably better in long run ,see what you find with head off get some pics up
 
jamesmartin said:
depends what you get 200 tdi for they were about £200 but more now i believe,if you can feel a step even very slight ,its more work to fit 200 but probably better in long run ,see what you find with head off get some pics up
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More like £3-400 now for a known good'un. If you have the space you can buy a mot fail rot-box for £5-600 and recoup most or all of that by breaking. Plus you get loom and lots of connection and pipework to adapt and play with :)
 
jamesmartin said:
depends what you get 200 tdi for they were about £200 but more now i believe,if you can feel a step even very slight ,its more work to fit 200 but probably better in long run ,see what you find with head off get some pics up
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Will do. My brother has tracked down a decent 2.5 na diesel as I have typed the last post. How hard would this be to fit and would any specialist tools be needed?

Cheers tom
 
toms3 said:
Will do. My brother has tracked down a decent 2.5 na diesel as I have typed the last post. How hard would this be to fit and would any specialist tools be needed?

Cheers tom
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means removing all or at least part of battery tray and making a piece to allow drivers side mount to fit but easy really
 
jamesmartin said:
means removing all or at least part of battery tray and making a piece to allow drivers side mount to fit but easy really
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Like a pice of box section or angle iron? And would rubber bushes be needed?

Also could we lift the engine in, or would we need to hire a hoist?

Thanks tom
 
toms3 said:
Like a pice of box section or angle iron? And would rubber bushes be needed?

Also could we lift the engine in, or would we need to hire a hoist?

Thanks tom
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ok i think you need to look around a little before contemplating this engine swap too much

can you weld, properly ?? i ask this because it requires a chassis mount moving for most folks, for other folks it requires at least a new engine mount fabricating to bolt to the engine due to the location of the injector pump

yes your engine and the new engine will require an engine hoist of some kind unless you wish to spend the rest of your life suffering a damaged back (or are built like two brick ****houses), even with a hoist be careful of creeping hydraulics and swinging the engine around whilst trying to move it whilst suspended, i use a hoist to swap landrover engines in and out on my own and straight swaps or 200tdis are relatively simple, other models require more thought and possibly more skills
 
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while looking at headgaskets I have been wondering are the 2.25 diesel heagaskets sets all the same or is there differences between them? Just so I order the right one.

Cheers tom.
 
Sorted a 2.5 na diesel with 100k for 100 pound for complete engine! Is it worth just swapping engines for sake of it or trying to repair our tired 2.25 ??we have got a welder and did around 40 hours welding on our old 90 chassis so had fair bit of practice and quite good now, sure could fabricate a bracket up , we ate in 2 minds what's best to do as by time we rebuild our engine we are going to be well in excess of 100 pound the new engine has cost and have been assured it was running well on removal only removed as chassis and bulkhead had gone!
Just wondering what everyone else would do replace or rebuild , thanks
 
Personally, I like to keep things original and would rebuild your current engine. To me the pleasure is returning something to how it was meant to be. Many others see things differently to me though. There is no right or wrong answer in general.
 
NiteMare said:
ok i think you need to look around a little before contemplating this engine swap too much

can you weld, properly ?? i ask this because it requires a chassis mount moving for most folks, for other folks it requires at least a new engine mount fabricating to bolt to the engine due to the location of the injector pump

yes your engine and the new engine will require an engine hoist of some kind unless you wish to spend the rest of your life suffering a damaged back (or are built like two brick ****houses), even with a hoist be careful of creeping hydraulics and swinging the engine around whilst trying to move it whilst suspended, i use a hoist to swap landrover engines in and out on my own and straight swaps or 200tdis are relatively simple, other models require more thought and possibly more skills
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ive just done a 12j 2.5n/a convert on mine and if its any help i could get a few pics up later to help anyone interested in this chassis engine mount change as i found a way of simply altering the existing series one to suit wich took me all of 20 minutes once i got the dimensions right
 
johnny curt 1 said:
ive just done a 12j 2.5n/a convert on mine and if its any help i could get a few pics up later to help anyone interested in this chassis engine mount change as i found a way of simply altering the existing series one to suit wich took me all of 20 minutes once i got the dimensions right
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Hi again johnny curt 1 that would be great thank you. It looks like we are going for the engine change so any info before we do it would be great! Cheers!
 
One thing to remember if you do replace the head gasket. once it is running again re-torque the head after warm up and again after 500 or so miles. Be prepared to remove the injectors to get at the row of studs to do the re-torque otherwise you will be back to square one ! It does not take long to do once the tools are out.
 
toms3 said:
Hi again johnny curt 1 that would be great thank you. It looks like we are going for the engine change so any info before we do it would be great! Cheers!
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right here we gggoooooo !!!!!!!

for the 2.5 engine swap most of it is straight forward but theres a couple of days fettling to do before you go for the crunch

first your best bet for ease of working space is to completely get rid of the original air filter mount and battery

for mine i moved the battery into the cubby box under the passengers seat due to the length of the main live wire to the starter motor being a good length to get there but i put the wire down a reinforced hose for added protection against rubbing through and shorting out fer peace of mind

[URL=http://s1139.photobucket.com/user/johnny19811/media/WP_20130512_006_zpsfd2b19b2.jpg.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s1139.photobucket.com/user/johnny19811/media/WP_20130512_005_zps93088d30.jpg.html][/URL]
 
now the next phase is to get a good permanent live from the battery on a 5 amp fuse to a switch on the dash then from the switch to the engine bay for the fuel pump solenoid on the new engine and at this point you should be ready for the engine out part

the engine swap itself is pretty much straight forward from here on in but for a couple of changes

the 2.5 engine will have the plastic fan power steering pump and a few other protruding odds n ends that will stop it going in wich heres a list of things i did

1 remove the existing alternator and replace with the one off yer series engine along with its bracket bolted to the engine block

2 remove the big fekkin plastic fan and drill out the holes in the metal series fan to 8mm then bolt that on instead this will give you a good 6" to play with later

3 remove the power steering pump and its belt carrier bearing brackets as this is going to get cought on the front crossmember when trying to marry the flywheel to the gearbox

4 this is not compulsary i just did it for ease of what i know and for refitting
remove the intake manifold and the exhaust manifold while theyre both off i took the oppertunity to remove the studs off the exhaust and fit new ones and when refitting the manifolds i put the series intake manifold on due to the intake pipe aiming away from the front passengers side wing ( where its gonna be a complete twot to fit an air filter box or anything in there )

now as for the alternator this will line up nice with the back pulley on the crank and the water pump leaving the 2 other pulleys on the bottom sparew for future fettling

a bit of advice though before removing the original engine please clamp the rubber hose section on the clutch pipe to stop the slave cylinder working all the way out of its housing bore ( its a nightmare to get that seal back in right )
 
now heres the bad bit

that engine mount you need to alter isnt as bad as it seems you dont need to totally remove the original mount from the chassis as thats just causing exess work pigging around and god only knows what else

how i done it was to run the 4" grinder along the sides of it following the top edge all the way along it then measured 1" down from the top and 3 1/2 " along the bottom of both sides then joined these 2 marks together and cut along it then i used a 3" bolster chisel and lump hammer to leather the top flap back down to the newly cut side triangles and welded the edges back shut

once i had done this i drew lines joining all corners on the bugger to find the centre of face plate of the alteration then drilled this out to 14mm for that little bit of movement when dropping the engine into place

not verry good pics but they do show what you should end up with or what yer aiming at in the end

[URL=http://s1139.photobucket.com/user/johnny19811/media/WP_20130615_003_zps6ba9b901.jpg.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s1139.photobucket.com/user/johnny19811/media/WP_20130615_006_zpse5500e5b.jpg.html][/URL]

and for your amusement a couple of pics of the bugger in place fitted and the air hose running off the air box from a defender put in place of the old battery tray that i removed all sealed pipe joints and ready for a snorkle to be fitted if i ever get round to it

[URL=http://s1139.photobucket.com/user/johnny19811/media/WP_20130615_004_zps7f17b049.jpg.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s1139.photobucket.com/user/johnny19811/media/WP_20130615_005_zps46e6b855.jpg.html][/URL]
 
johnny curt 1 said:
ive just done a 12j 2.5n/a convert on mine and if its any help i could get a few pics up later to help anyone interested in this chassis engine mount change as i found a way of simply altering the existing series one to suit wich took me all of 20 minutes once i got the dimensions right
Click to expand...
re the off side engine mount for the chassis-
obtain an engine mount bracket for the nearside, engine side, then mount it upside down on the off side engine bracket with the rubber mount in place. it gives the correct angle and then just requires welding to the off side chassis rail once the original mount has been ground off.

be wary of second hand 12j's (n/a) if you cant see it running prior to fitting! would be worth rigging it up with a radiator and testing it first.
 
Thank you johnny curt 1 that is fantastic! I can't look properly now as im at work but when I get home tonight I'll have a good nosey!
 
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