Sluggish 300TDI

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Remington rolling block

Active Member
Posts
89
Location
Birmingham
Hello All.
I haven't been in the site for a long time, used to be Cogswell&Harrison but it wouldn't let me log in.
Ok my problem is.
Defender90 300TDI (1996), just fitted new oil pump, pressure release valve and spring, oil thermostat, radiator and belts. Its running nice a quiet, oil problem gone but now its gone sluggish on me, lacking the power it had before I did the oil pump. I used the flywheel lock pin and the pump lock pin but I get the feeling injector pump or the cam are a wee bit out. looking at the wheels and timing marks all seems ok.
Any ideas lads, Cheers Tom
 
Did you have to alter the timing away from what it was to get the pins in and on the marks or would the pins go in before you pulled it apart?
 
The pin went in with no problems, but I used a 3/8" bolt shank and forgot to cut the head off, had to pull the pin to remove the pump wheel, then had to wind the hub back a small amount to get the slot and pump hole to accept the pin again
 
As Gmacz says have a look at the cam timing, make sure you look at the sprocket square on and not from the top as that can make things look aligned when they are not and vice versa.
 
Had the rad out, so yes I was looking square at it. The crank was spot on and locked with the flywheel pin. Cam was spot on too, im sure its the injector pump timing but I cant see how, everything seems to line up as it should, engine runs smooth quiet, runs lovely but im down on powder. Before I did the oil pump she would pull 80mph all day and come back for more, and its surprised more then a few chavs at the traffic light GP. Now its hard work to get her up to 70mph, its like driving a wet sponge
 
We are getting cam and crank mixed up.
I was writing cam and it changed to crank by the time I had finished writing.
Camshaft is the only thing left, did you turn over by hand a couple of times and recheck cam timing marks with pins in again.
Check the turbo pipes etc in case you have knocked one loose.
 
I assume you didn't notice the crank pulley woodruff key being worn? Also it is possible for the pump timing to be slightly out even though the pin slides in. A preferred (if more awkward) method is to use a DTI on the back of the FIP like this.
 
The W/keys were perfect, as were the keyways, I think you maybe on to something with clocking the lift, thought at the time the pin fitted like a willie in a shirt sleeve. haven't got a plunger type clock mine are all finger type. Just a thought before I go buying clocks,,,, if the backlash of pin and holes is at fault , then maybe the adjustment on the pulley may be enough to correct things,,, Now as I can adjust the pulley through the cover plate thought id try taking it from one end to the other a bit at a time, if it starts to make a difference then ill make an adaptor to fit a clock to the pump, a bolt and pin like the flywheel pin should allow use of a finger gauge
 
The W/keys were perfect, as were the keyways, I think you maybe on to something with clocking the lift, thought at the time the pin fitted like a willie in a shirt sleeve. haven't got a plunger type clock mine are all finger type. Just a thought before I go buying clocks,,,, if the backlash of pin and holes is at fault , then maybe the adjustment on the pulley may be enough to correct things,,, Now as I can adjust the pulley through the cover plate thought id try taking it from one end to the other a bit at a time, if it starts to make a difference then ill make an adaptor to fit a clock to the pump, a bolt and pin like the flywheel pin should allow use of a finger gauge
If someone has previously loosened the pulley centre bolt then there is the possibility that the slot/hole alignment can be out so that when the pump is pinned the timing is out (hence DTI method) There is a method for gradually advancing you pump settings by using smaller size drill bits (such as 8.5mm) and holding the pump against the drill while tightening the bolts. Its on here somewhere, just need to search
 
Yes the pipe is on the turbo and seems fine..... the pin and slots,,,, Now im trying to think back to when I first started the job so bear with me, I seem to remember the pin was held hard against the right edge of the slot, infact I had to ease it a little to get the pin out, just maybe I need to easy it back a tad more
 
Thinking outside the box on the smaller drill idea,,,, if I turn a pin that's a dead fit in the pump body with a stepped back reduced shoulder where the adjuster slots are then I could move the pulley more and at the same time bake out the pump to pin backlash ?????
 
Thinking outside the box on the smaller drill idea,,,, if I turn a pin that's a dead fit in the pump body with a stepped back reduced shoulder where the adjuster slots are then I could move the pulley more and at the same time bake out the pump to pin backlash ?????
Or just use different sized drills (8.5, 8.4, 8.3mm etc), remember this is only a quick experiment to see if it makes a difference. If it does then that is the time to start checking the pulley/pump relationship, if there is no noticeable improvement then you have eliminated that as a potential cause.
 
:oops::oops::oops::oops::oops::oops::oops::oops::rolleyes: Bottom intercooler hose wasn't on properly, half was tucked inside. Didn't see it till I got underneath to reach a spanner I dropped. Well thank you All,, shes back to destroying boy racers again:mad::mad::mad::mad:o_O.
Cheers Tom
 
:oops::oops::oops::oops::oops::oops::oops::oops::rolleyes: Bottom intercooler hose wasn't on properly, half was tucked inside. Didn't see it till I got underneath to reach a spanner I dropped. Well thank you All,, shes back to destroying boy racers again:mad::mad::mad::mad:o_O.
Cheers Tom

Sounds good, a good reminder to us all not to ignore the simple stuff. A half tucked in hose is never a good thing...................:eek::eek:

Cheers
 
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