SLS raise/lower remote - faking it?

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Schematic :)

The 'output' of this circuit is taken from the collector of Q1, and routed to the appropriate input pin on the green connector on the SLABS ECU.

The switch will make the rear suspension go up and down.
 

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david pye said:
well, now it works :)

i have a switch which makes the sls go up if you press it one way, and down if you press it the other.

I just need to try to get some smaller pic boards then i will have something i can fit and forget :)

is anyone else likely to be interested in a kit form of one of these? :)

cheers,

david
Click to expand...

hell yeah !:)
 
There is a limitation though.

Like the standard LR remote, the SLS will only go up or down if all the doors are shut.
Which means, you either need to be in the car pressing the switch, or have the window open and reach in and press the switch.

Another question is where to mount the switch - to me, I think drilling a small hole in the binnacle switch plate and putting it in there would make it easy.

Thoughts? :)
 
Ah, gotcha. Fortunately, because of the ECU constraints, the switch will only be allowed to work when the key is in position 2, and all doors are shut, so it's not as if some comedian will be able to lower the car onto the bump stops without the owner knowing about it ;-)

The only issue will be finding a suitable switch. I wanted to put mine through a hole on the rear body panel, but water gets to the back of the panel too, so the whole switch will need significant waterproofing, not just the 'front' of it!
 
Nice job m8... i managed to do that in the "pure electrical" way by feeding the valves/compressor directly through a switch but it's not easy cos blocking diodes are needed to not disturb the system...but at least it's working with only one condition ...to have "juice" in the battery
 
Just working on polishing the design for production :)

It is going to use surface mount stuff and I expect to provide it as a board with all the cables attached so it can be fitted plug and play, using a scotch lock connector or similar to splice into the bcu loom, so no soldering needed!

I will post an update in a couple of weeks when I have had a good block of time off work to finish things up!

Cheers
 
Hi David,

I'm not worried about having it built, I'm adept at attacking things with a soldering iron (day job lol)

Just the programming of the IC fazes me ;)
 
David Pye said:
Just working on polishing the design for production :)

It is going to use surface mount stuff and I expect to provide it as a board with all the cables attached so it can be fitted plug and play, using a scotch lock connector or similar to splice into the bcu loom, so no soldering needed!

I will post an update in a couple of weeks when I have had a good block of time off work to finish things up!

Cheers
Click to expand...

Yes, could use one of those! Had to put some awkward heavy stuff in the back recently and lowering the rear would have made it so much easier.
 
Last edited:
Won't be long, guys! Just final details and then I will have them ready for sale.

I am not hoping to get rich from these things but I do have to etch the PCBs, drill and assemble. What kind of price would people pay for the whole thing, no soldering etc required, and including the switch and sufficient cabling to route the switch to a spare blanking plate on the binnacle? (Would need to drill a hole in the blank for the switch to go through)
 
David Pye said:
Won't be long, guys! Just final details and then I will have them ready for sale.

I am not hoping to get rich from these things but I do have to etch the PCBs, drill and assemble. What kind of price would people pay for the whole thing, no soldering etc required, and including the switch and sufficient cabling to route the switch to a spare blanking plate on the binnacle? (Would need to drill a hole in the blank for the switch to go through)
Click to expand...

If it's less than the landrover fob that'll do for me. How does 50 squid including postage sound?
 
Probably talking crap but ive just read that the plips work on 433mhz and the ecu can be programmed to work with any plip?
 
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