slippy auto box

I know iknow it is all questions buuuuuut we have a "slippy auto box, it feels like somehow it is slipping a clutch, do you think an oil change would help it?

gordoncoll said:

I know iknow it is all questions buuuuuut we have a "slippy auto box, it feels like somehow it is slipping a clutch, do you think an oil change would help it?

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Think it would be the cheapest thing to try - first
Has it been done in the past?

cant find it in service history, I would do it but I see horror stories of undoing the wrong bolt !

gordoncoll said:

I know iknow it is all questions buuuuuut we have a "slippy auto box, it feels like somehow it is slipping a clutch, do you think an oil change would help it?

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it might but by dropping oil you will know , if its a burnt clutch, oil will be black and smell burnt, and not worth refilling,

Look for hippo photos on auto oil change, and remember to measure the quantity out and replace with same quantity

90% chance it's the ATF fluid has worn out.
Really easy to change. Only bolts to undo are on the base of the auto box. Don't touch anything that is at 90 degrees or on the side back or front.
Run car for about 12 miles to get it hot. Switch engine off.
Undo

17mm drain bolt.
Measure the amount that came out. Put same amount back in here.

Start car, put into every gear whilst stationary, run it up and down the road. Park back up, leave engine running, undo

Drain excess out, if nothing comes out put ATF in until it does.
Ta-dah!!!!
Repeat another twice after 3 months or 1000 miles
Mike

I love this bloody forum it is really helpful. Anyone got a pic of both bolts which will show me the location from a different view? This iphone is ****e!

Sorry no, but when you drop the engine guard off and get under there, the bolts are really obvious. There's only one big one for the drain, and the level plug is next to the cable holder.
Mike

The Jatco fluid change method given above is incorrect.

Do a search on here. There are good photos showing both bolts. There is more than one way to do the change. One method on the forum is quite involved showing lots of attention to detail with gearbox temperature, the vehicle being level and checking and rechecking. There is also a video on you-tube from an American parts supplier that makes the job about as basic as possible. When I did mine I checked out both methods and did a hybrid of the two methods. It worked out just fine.

No argument intended
Mike

Hippo said:

The Jatco fluid change method given above is incorrect.

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There are always differing opinions on how to do things.
The way I do it works for me, yes it's basic, but we don't all have access to fancy tools.
I'm sure if it was completely wrong, my auto box would have destroyed itself by now. As it is, it's never worked better.
Each to there own.
Mike

Skinny Mike said:

There are always differing opinions on how to do things.
The way I do it works for me, yes it's basic, but we don't all have access to fancy tools.
I'm sure if it was completely wrong, my auto box would have destroyed itself by now. As it is, it's never worked better.
Each to there own.
Mike

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The fluid level in the box needs to be reasonably accurate. However it doesn't need to be mm perfect. As long as it's not to low or to high, it'll be fine. I use the drain, measure, refill, method. I then check the level at 40°C using an infrared thermometer. I've never had a problem and I've done it many many times. It's just a gearbox with fluid in it, nothing more.

As the bishop said to the actress i am still worried about opening the wrong hole! What atf fluid is best?

gordoncoll said:

As the bishop said to the actress i am still worried about opening the wrong hole! What atf fluid is best?

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What fluid is best is tough. It's one of those subjects that is a thread on its own. I and others use and have good results with Carlube ATF-U.

being honest i am a biit worried about doing it having heard so many horror stories! I will quite happily do the porsche manual one tho! I feel quite competent with the spanners

Skinny Mike said:

There are always differing opinions on how to do things.
The way I do it works for me, yes it's basic, but we don't all have access to fancy tools.
I'm sure if it was completely wrong, my auto box would have destroyed itself by now. As it is, it's never worked better.
Each to there own.
Mike

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Sorry I should have explained. I don't mean any offence. Driving the Freelander for 12 miles is wrong. The oil will be too hot. LR don't approve of this method which is why I'm against it. I spoke to them and got some answers on why. They start from cold and measure temp. Reason being they want it between 35 and 45 degrees C, from cold. It's doesn't have to be spot on. It's the preferred. Driving 12 miles will put it way above this to around 85 or a bit higher. Some suggest measuring is complicated. It's not. Leave it on tick over to reach the correct temp range while measuring it. Time will vary depending on ambient temperature outside and if yours is a v6 or Td4 (v6 warms up faster). LR advise they want the auto oil pumped around gently to prime the system on tick over. Auto oil should contain anti foaming chemicals. They want air pushed out of the system if it's there, but no foaming of the oil. They said foaming can happen when driven or revved. I can only assume the gears are spinning round to produce this. Hence a gentle prime of the system (pipes/solenoids etc) on tick over and when running through gears. Foaming (adding air into the oil like an aero bar - their eggsample) can increase the volume of oil, which later reduces. The level doesn't have to be amazingly correct. Just as per the steps should be fine. They still use the same method on newer LR's products. Some are different temps like the FL2.

The reason why I'm against diffing from the LR method is because we've seen so many fek it up over the years. This can also lead to straying from other required instructions anorl. We have to be careful as some use the site via translation from oversea's. Garages get it wrong anorl sometimes. I normally ask how peeps have got on as some don't come back. Sometimes this is because they no longer have it because of problem's. I get a lot of pm's about autos. Level/resistance q's. It's heart breaking to have to tell peeps the likely cost when they've done something wrong. Like draining the oil and driving it before refilling, driving it after refilling but not checking the level and thinking it drove ok so it's fine, trying to replace what came out and counting wrong (or the level was way out to start with), draining with the engine on tick over, all of which are wrong. It's not difficult to do the change if you follow the steps. Unfortunately many don't to their cost. I've also asked peeps to take vid's oft you tube before as they've been incorrect.

gordoncoll said:

being honest i am a biit worried about doing it having heard so many horror stories! I will quite happily do the porsche manual one tho! I feel quite competent with the spanners

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The horror stories come from peeps doing it wrong. Follow the correct steps correctly and you'll be ok. Jatco oil change can work miracles by fixing strange faults on a FL1. Is it slipping in all forward and reverse gears or just some? Petrol v6 or diesel Td4? We could compare the revs for each gear to help.

Hippo, The 5-6 minute warm-up is a good tip. That's about how long it should take to get the Hippo up on jack stands.
Of course if you raise it while it's running you would have to watch out for rotating parts, hot exhaust and exhaust in the face.
Oh well!

@Hippo A five minute tick over is easier than driving it about, so I shall give it a go next time, probably March.
Mike