Slave cyclinder

Can anyone tell me if I need to remove both drive shafts and the rear prop to replace the clutch slave cyclinder
Thanks in Advance

Whoa wtf?! It's a 30 min jobs tops no need to remove half the transmission! Which engine have you got? In my 1.8 you need to replace the whole assembly (it comes pre assembled and you just fit it.)

I don't think it's vastly different for other models either.

Wait a minute do you even know what the clutch slave cylinder is? I'm just curious as the rear prop has absolutely nothing to do with any of that, and neither do the drive shafts. Maybe you have become baffled by the terminology ...

td4 is a concentric slave cylinder and release bearing ,you would need to drain ird remove bottom wish bone ball joint and both drive shafts and undo cv from ird

jamesmartin said:

td4 is a concentric slave cylinder and release bearing ,you would need to drain ird remove bottom wish bone ball joint and both drive shafts and undo cv from ird

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I doff my hat James, Td4 sounds alot more involved than the others!

Apologies chap, hope that answers your query .

concentrics are a very poor idea imo ,and quite fragile so care is needed when fitting

The IRD has to come off, so anything connected to that will also have to be either removed or disconnected and supported, in order to remove the gearbox, in order to change the slave cylinder. It's a convoluted old pain in the arse, and if anything else is close to failing i.e. clutch or DMF, then it may be advisable to change them too..........

Bazzer2409 said:

Can anyone tell me if I need to remove both drive shafts and the rear prop to replace the clutch slave cyclinder
Thanks in Advance

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I hope you are going to buy a Haynes' Manual before you get your tool-box out.

Haynes isn't perfect - but this is not a simple job your talking about here.

Haynes lists loads of procedures including the easily said 'Remove the IRD' and 'Remove the Gearbox' as well as the driveshapfts, CVJ etc.

Good luck with the job - it sounds like a full weekends work.

Singvogel.

I can see this as another item for the list -

'Reasons not to buy a TD4.'

Don't you think, Will?

Singvogel said:

I can see this as another item for the list -

'Reasons not to buy a TD4.'

Don't you think, Will?

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I have to say the Td4 does seem like a pain in the arse when things do start failing. Getting all that out will be a seriously involved job, and they Hayne's doesn't cover Td4 procedures . It'll tell you how to get the shafts and IRD off but after that it up to ewe.

Chalk one up for the L series.

I have no means to get a haynes manual but I am at the point where I am have removed both drive shafts and rear prop and removed all bolts that I can see I have a gap in the clutch housing but the IRD seems to be tight, any ideas why!!!!!!

WLJayne said:

I doff my hat James, Td4 sounds alot more involved than the others!

Apologies chap, hope that answers your query .

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Lol

Bazzer2409 said:

I have no means to get a haynes manual but I am at the point where I am have removed both drive shafts and rear prop and removed all bolts that I can see I have a gap in the clutch housing but the IRD seems to be tight, any ideas why!!!!!!

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Rumour has it that its actually easier to remove the front subframe, then the IRD, then the gear box! It's more work but far easier in the long run!

Diesel Do said:

Rumour has it that its actually easier to remove the front subframe, then the IRD, then the gear box! It's more work but far easier in the long run!

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it is the way i do it with engine suspended in a way that allows you to raise or lower it

Or you could swap it for the far superior 1.8 model

i do hope the op has a td4...........

Funny, my slave cyclinder has never failed, neither the DMF, thank goodness.

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englishbullterrier said:

Funny, my slave cyclinder has never failed, neither the DMF, thank goodness.

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Your injectors are about to fall out