Signor Galvani has a lot to answer for!

Superaquarama said:

Typical Landy job, something that seems straightforward turns into a major project!
I needed to renew one of the tub cappings on a 300TDi County 90 SW, which means taking off the roof, rear seats out etc.
Turns out to be a huge amount of corrosion under the carpet where the rear seat belt bars are anchored - steel on top, steel reinforcing plate underneath, ali sandwiched in the middle = disaster area. Other lighter corrosion on the floor is treatable with the correct procedure.
Seems to me that the best solution may be just to look for a decent 200/300 tub - what does anyone else think?
Thanks,
Anthony

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Superaquarama said:

Thanks, guys, that would be a simpler and cheaper solution than changing the tub and would be covered by the carpets. The other areas are the front seatbelt mountings in the front corners of the tub - will have a better look at these but presumably not just a County problem.

Galvani is the guy who realised there were electric potential differences between different metals, and that a noble metal such as gold would eat a poor one like zinc. Hence zinc sacrificial anodes on boats.

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Superaquarama said:

Thanks, guys, that would be a simpler and cheaper solution than changing the tub and would be covered by the carpets. The other areas are the front seatbelt mountings in the front corners of the tub - will have a better look at these but presumably not just a County problem.

Galvani is the guy who realised there were electric potential differences between different metals, and that a noble metal such as gold would eat a poor one like zinc. Hence zinc sacrificial anodes on boats.

Click to expand...

Superaquarama said:

Typical Landy job, something that seems straightforward turns into a major project!
I needed to renew one of the tub cappings on a 300TDi County 90 SW, which means taking off the roof, rear seats out etc.
Turns out to be a huge amount of corrosion under the carpet where the rear seat belt bars are anchored - steel on top, steel reinforcing plate underneath, ali sandwiched in the middle = disaster area. Other lighter corrosion on the floor is treatable with the correct procedure.
Seems to me that the best solution may be just to look for a decent 200/300 tub - what does anyone else think?
Thanks,
Anthony

Click to expand...

tottot said:

Solutions to prevent bimetalic corrosion have been around for years, both paint and materials to place between the different metals. It is just that vehicle makers do not bother.

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meego said:

I would try and get rid of the worst of the aluminum corrosion and fix a sized piece of of ally checker plate over the full top of the tub wheel box. You can buy sheets of rubber cheap on eBay and use cut outs of that between your steel brackets and the ally plate when you refit everything.

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dag019 said:

Check YRM for repair panels, They have most of what you will need. It would not be cheap but is likely to be the same amount of work for a much better result than swapping the tub, as a replacement tub is likely to have similar issues even if not quite as bad as your current one. I am about to start rebuilding a CSW tub which has similar issues but for the price of a better one I can get most of the repair panels, and the better one would still require work.

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lynall said:

Covering it with the carpet will be what caused the issue in the first place, gets wet then stays wet.

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Superaquarama said:

Pretty sure it's galvanic corrosion and not damp, carpets are bone dry - it is a station wagon!

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Superaquarama said:

Pretty sure it's galvanic corrosion and not damp, carpets are bone dry - it is a station wagon!

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