Freelander 1 Should I buy?

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lewy97

New Member
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2
Hello,

I'm a total newbie to the forum and Land Rovers...

I've got the chance to buy a Landrover Freelander TD4 2006 HSE for £1200

Only got 87k on the clock, however the MOT failure came back today with the following attached...

Would you still buy it?
Thanks
 

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As above. Corrosion sounds bad and welding required. Both subframes is a load of work.
Putting the 4 wd back together is upwards of £500 alone.

Low mileage yes so engine probably good. If you want a project haggle it down to half the asking price then spend 1k and you'll have a decent vehicle if you can do all the work yourself. Take it to a garage and that 1k becomes 2k very quickly !!
 
andyfreelandy said:
MOT testers like the prop missing here. Means they can use the rolling road brake tester without breaking the 4wd !!!
Click to expand...
Hi Andy i was asked this question the other day, can the AWD both FL1&FL2 be brake tested using the rolling road, and does it have to be four wheel roller or two wheel roller ?
 
FL 1 my tester puts the floor mount measuring device in and road tests.

If ALL wheels slow and stop exactly together then that emulates a road I guess !!

Two roller will bust summat!!

My MOTer says my Freelanders are the only ones he gets where the handbrake actually works and sticks his nose to the windscreen !!
 
Thanks for comments everyone.

The seller has agreed to fix all of the major defects.

Is it still worth taking and doing the prop shaft at a later date?
 
Also depends where you are, and what spec you want. The TD4 is generally good for much higher mileage, so my opinion is you should look for one with fully working drivetrain & less corrosion.

Like any car, a decent service & maintainence history matters . . . .. including receipts not just stamps. Avoid coastal towns !!
 
Arctic2 said:
Hi Andy i was asked this question the other day, can the AWD both FL1&FL2 be brake tested using the rolling road, and does it have to be four wheel roller or two wheel roller ?
Click to expand...
I understand for the 2 rollers, they rotate in different directions. That should mean there is no movement in the prop/vcu. A bit like if you spin one wheel the other side spins in the opposite direction and the prop doesnt move. I may be wrong!!
 
lewy97 said:
Thanks for comments everyone.

The seller has agreed to fix all of the major defects.

Is it still worth taking and doing the prop shaft at a later date?
Click to expand...
As everyone else advises… NO!
They won’t fix them - the cost would be around the asking price if done anywhere near correctly.
And then still the prop/IRD/VCU potential issues.

Get a well looked-after one, with lots of evidence of ongoing work etc., and 4wd working correctly, for around £2k and change. Don’t worry about the miles on a TD4 that has been cared for.

To give an idea, I have every receipt for parts/fluids, and have fully documented every job or service I’ve done on mine since I’ve had it.

BUT don’t be put off a LR - the FL1 is great fun and a brilliant entry point into LR ownership. And a looked-after fully functional one is a very capable machine ;)
Just find a good one.
Or buy mine when I sell it !
 
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