Series King Cab

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CV prop would be the cheapest option I think.

Only need the top end of the CV, turn off an adaptor on the lathe then weld it on and bolt to the prop flange so you'd have a double de-cardon as it were but the CV would also add far more movement!

Theres a shogun being broken locally so I may take one from that or if not something HD like the ones on the turbo'd volvo in the yard too!
 
A quick bit of reading later and I'm decided on a custom shorty prop shaft ;)


So I'll be making one up when I get the chance, this will increase my working angle although I still wont have the same kind of articulation I would as standard but I can live with that



What is a CV shaft and why do I want one? - JeepForum.com

Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Shorty CV

Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist


I'll be going for a single 20* landy UJ on the axle flange end and a CV joint at the x-fer end
 
Look at CVD's for rear engined 60's70's sports cars I'm sure there would be an almost off the shelf jobby replacement for old rubber doughnuts as used on old independant sports cars
 
jai_landrover said:
Look at CVD's for rear engined 60's70's sports cars I'm sure there would be an almost off the shelf jobby replacement for old rubber doughnuts as used on old independant sports cars
Click to expand...

Just looked them up, they don't look quite as good for the job as a CV ?


At any rate I'm finding it hard to see one for a full size car, most of the stuff on google that seems to come up if you type in CVD drive shaft is all for little RC cars
 
They used to do CV conversions CVD's and they had a lifetime warranty only thing I can think of is that the sliding joint may not have enough movement the CV ends would be perfect.
 
Had a look through a good few pages on google now and cant find anything normal car size let alone landrover :( will be the CV for now I think

A defender R380 will go in in the long run anyway but I'll be keeping the current engine position if I do purely as it makes access to the rear spark plugs easier as well as moving the manifolds away from the footwells.
 
My 80 inch has 15mm gap between the echaust manifold and the bulkhead!! Its my heating system for a cold days trialing
 
Forgot to add I went to check up on one of the last missing bits from me series today so the new custom slam panel is being made to look as close to stock as possible with the rad running through it :D and then having a series 1-esque grille being made up out of a real nasty looking diamond pattern steel mesh which I acquired from the scrap ;)
 
I'll probably go for a full width grille as I have a good amount of the sheet and it'll protect the rad better

My lights will be concealed in some small pods on the chassis leg tops when I get round/have funds to buy(ing) those tiny projector ones for kit cars :) I'll slowly make it look stealthier :p
 
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