Thankyou for your reply. Thats a good idea. maybe i should sign myself up too, because i do ultimately want to be ablt to fix it.
If i start 'looking under the hood tomorrow does anyone have any suggestions on where to start - it was running well and starting every time, then it didnt start - absolutely dead (although lights still worked) but it started straight away when i used jump leads, this happened twice and the third time it started with the jump leads but not immediately, and by the time id been around the block the horn and front dials had stopped working and shortly after the engine stalled. I want to get to the source rather than just e.g replace a fuse and it happen a week later. Does it sound =like the battery is dead? I have to check the files on how old the battery is..
This does sound - as everyone else has said - like a battery problem.
What hasn't been mentioned so far is that you need to make sure a new / newly recharged battery is going to stay healthy
If you feel rich a brand new battery will probably get you going again. However - I think you need to truly get into the Land Rover ownership and become stingy with your money!
If you want the following steps might help
1) Look on the battery - sometimes there is a date / date code written on it. Anything that is about 10 years old or older is probably going to cause you more charging related trouble so it might be worth changing - but - it is always worth checking.
2) A local garage (even Kwik Fit again - I know I'm eventually gonna get in trouble for mentioning them!) will be able to test the battery for you - but only take it when there is some charge in it
3) A modern "transistor" battery charger is a must. Look on the interweb for CTEC chargers - those are the nice gucci ones. HOWEVER I have one that looks a bit like the gucci ones that I got from the Lidl (eeek! it is getting worse!) and that works just fine.
4) Get yourself a multimeter so you can measure the voltage of your battery
Loads of money can be spent on multimeters. I personally would avoid the cheapest as the connections in particular the leads are usually dreadful - meaning you end up chasing problems with the measuring the instrument more than problems with the vehicle.
If you can afford a multimeter that has the ability to measure "dwell angle" (I encourage you to look this up as a way into your continuing automotive education - sorry -
https://www.howacarworks.com/ignition-system/checking-the-dwell-angle) - in other words one that has a selector that has "4-cyl" - "6-cyl" etc on it then that will help with future investigations. These are more expensive mainly because modern vehicles have computers that give fault codes and these kind of "analogue" shenanigans are hardly ever done any more.
{Note:- the link above is not something that is necessarily needed to get the engine running again - but is something you need to consider later on}
5) Check the tension on the alternator belt
Rule of thumb:- Longest length of V-Belt => Try to twist it 90 degrees with strong fingers - if it goes further it is too slack. Better to use a certified tensioner that measures but then they cost a lot of money...
6) Check the charging function of the alternator - measure with your multimeter (Now you're really getting into it)