series 3 rear axle

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Ryder

Ryder

Having a senior moment
Posts
6,616
Location
West Bedforshire
Hello one and all. I have searched for info on this but I suspect the answer is so bloody obvious that no one has even discussed it before.

I am under the impression that series 3s mostly had a salisbury rear axle. I am unsure whether they all had one or whether it was optional.

The knock on from that is that we are buying the bits and pieces to rebuild a salisbury rear axle for our 109 (1979).

If I simply order listed parts from paddocks, will they automatically be the correct parts or do I need to specify that it is a salisbury axle. (I am explaining this rather badly because I am doped up to the eyeballs with pain killers so please forgive the naff explanation).

To Clarify:

Paddocks list brake shoes, wheel cylinder, wheel bearing set etc. for a 1979 109. They don't specify whether it is or is not for a salisbury axle. Does it matter.

I realise this is a stupid question so bring on the stupid answers!
 
109s were usually salisbury, 88s rover. Of course, that's what land rover originally fitted. If there's a plate on the back that unbolts it's a salisbury. If the diff unbolts from the front of the axle case it's a rover.
 
thanks mate... I am definitely working on a salisbury. If I order spares from paddocks listed as being for a 109 i assume from your comment that can not be sure that they are for the right axle if you get what I mean
 
Ryder what parts are you ordering????

Apart from the stub axles everything i.e hubs brakes bearings and driveflange (24 spline) 11 inch brakes are all rover items make sure you order late series i.e series III as the bearings should be the later type not the early type which had 2 different size bearings. If the axle you are refurbing which is unknown age ( I know you had a spare one) that may be an earlier vintage and may have the different size inner to outter bearings then order early type bearings.

Phone me if you get stuck.

Are you doing the diff internals?? Personally unless they are blatently ready to fail I'd inspect them and if they seem good leave alone until you can drive and hear for any unwanted noises. then deal with it if need be then. Sals are pretty strong units and if setup and kept maintained last ages.
 
We can sort the Salisbury of need be no worries but I really wouldn't bother unless it's obvious it's not good.
 
well the diff seemed to be fine. It operated with no undue noise when the chassis was delivered. It had clean oil in it... and there are no nasty noises at the mometn when it is operated. My inclination would be to refurb each end and leave the diff until fitted. Much as Jai has suggested.

the half shafts seem to be good. Surface is kind of mottled but I am guessing that's normal. The actual drums have small chips out of them. I think at least one is the result of kai having trouble removing the drum and clobbering it little hard! They are no problem... we have spares lying around
 
Sorry - what I meant was landys tend to have all sorts of bits replaced and you can't guarantee that what's on it was what was originally fitted. Often a bit of detective work is required to find the right bits. The parts book is a good place to start.

pdf Land Rover Manuals | Landroverweb.com
 
Continuing the saga. Kai has snapped a bolt in the inspection plate. I am guessing that we are going to need an option like easy outs or some such thing to get the bugger out. Don't want to throw the axle out just because of a snapped bolt.

Anyone got a set of easy outs that we could borrow - or maybe assist with the one bolt? (Never used easy outs before and don't even know how they work!)

vids n pics to follow!
 
How did he break it?? undoing? doing up? has it snapped flush or do you have much sticling out??

Please tell me you wern't playing with the air gun or air ratchet

Theyre only lil M10's
 
errr.... i dont really know about the air ratchet. He would be inclined to use the spanners first I do know that.

Nothing sticking out... the shear point is flush with the surface of the housing. Have a photo somewhere just looking for it!
 
#ok only real option is to get a really decent center punch. centre punch it dead centre and drill the middloe out start at 2mm and go up until your around 6 mm then we can play with easy outs and or get it out
 
Ok I'm not gonna shout as Kai knows where I stand on grinding without gloves etc.


That axle has the 2 different type of bearings i.e a stepped Stub axle.
 
jai_landrover said:
Ok I'm not gonna shout as Kai knows where I stand on grinding without gloves etc.


That axle has the 2 different type of bearings i.e a stepped Stub axle.
Click to expand...
thanks Jai.. info about the bearings is good.

He seems to feel more in control without gloves than with ones when grinding. When welding is a different matter!
 
I know thats why I will say no more. Not my fingers!

I'd rarther weld without gloves than grind. burnt forearms is a biatch, I had it last month twas a killer!!!

Bearings are defo the older type tho. Check the front bearings they might be the same. I know late series III's has 2 identical bearings same as 90's

Ow keep an eye out for a 3 stud trailer rim 8 inch need a spare if you see owt let me know.

Cheers

Jai
 
Best goves I have ever worn (I didn't buy them) £££ well $$$$ they were some Kevlar and poly sumthing or other supposed to be us special forces gloves. Dunno might be able to get them from a surplus place but I think they were the best goves as they fitted perfect I used to live in them pretty much wherever I went I was wearing gloves
 
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