The air filter is clean with fresh oil. The tube is new and intake is working correctly.
How do I know if the injectors are working correctly....could they have an impact on the colour and Collins of smoke?
Many thanks for your help.
Bob
Series 3 engine ...repair or replace??
- Thread starter Bob Pate
- Start date
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The air filter is clean with fresh oil. The tube is new and intake is working correctly.
How do I know if the injectors are working correctly....could they have an impact on the colour and Collins of smoke?
Many thanks for your help.
Bob
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
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jamesmartin
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black smoke is too much diesel for air retarding gives a whiter smoke if yours had too much black smoke but can breathe ok take injectors and pump to be checked ,its quite possible someones adjusted feuling screw to increase power
You could pay for it
http://www.paddockspares.com/blr34wh-land-rover-series-3-official-workshop-manual.html
If you want a paper copy (other places might be cheaper for the same thing so shop around!)
Alternatively a PDF can be found here =>
http://www.seriesdiesellandrover.com/pdf's.html
I've not even bothered looking at the offerings from Haynes for series Land Rovers - are they any good? At one point in time I remember the general opinion was that the sun shone out the arse of Lindsay Porter but I don't hear that much any more...Haynes Book of Lies, the technical level scale should be hammers not spanners
...these days for Land Rovers it is "Green Book" and "James Taylor"...
dstainton
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swapped 2.5 diesel N/A for 300tdi with the help of a Steve Parker kit....Different vehicle to drive. Can now pass Semis on the hills, not vice versa.
series2steve
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this IS what you need ,not a smelly ,noisy ,dirty boiler
nickjaxe
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nickjaxe
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Does the engine sound knocky at all...to far advanced pump timing will give black smoke...and can also give a harsh engine note.
Incorrectly set up valve timing can do the same.
As for engines...I took out my 2.25d around 10 years ago after 200.000mls and 2 rebuilds...replaced it with a 200di...looks very neat and IMHO in keeping with the Landrover...on a run I get over 40mpg and good power...its geared up though with 3.5 diffs...give same ratio as an O/D gives.
Owned my SWB from new so I was sad when I had to remove the 2.25d which it came out of the factory with.
Nick.
Incorrectly set up valve timing can do the same.
As for engines...I took out my 2.25d around 10 years ago after 200.000mls and 2 rebuilds...replaced it with a 200di...looks very neat and IMHO in keeping with the Landrover...on a run I get over 40mpg and good power...its geared up though with 3.5 diffs...give same ratio as an O/D gives.
Owned my SWB from new so I was sad when I had to remove the 2.25d which it came out of the factory with.
Nick.
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That's an interesting story. First time I have heard of replacing engine as the original owner. Did you keep the 2.25 petrol engine? I sometimes wish there was a similar petrol sized engine upgrade available. 200TDI is a good engine but the anti diesel lobbying isn't good. Wouldn't it be great if there was a modern petrol upgrade. Problem then is all the emissions standards and ECU crap to contend with.
300bhp/ton
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What anti diesel lobbing? And what affect do you think it'll have on a 40 year old Land Rover?That's an interesting story. First time I have heard of replacing engine as the original owner. Did you keep the 2.25 petrol engine? I sometimes wish there was a similar petrol sized engine upgrade available. 200TDI is a good engine but the anti diesel lobbying isn't good. Wouldn't it be great if there was a modern petrol upgrade. Problem then is all the emissions standards and ECU crap to contend with.
As for petrol. Well V8...
Or a 2.5 from a Defender. Or a 2.0 MPi unit or even a turbo version. And I believe a KV6 would potentially bolt up as well.
300bhp/ton
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40mpg. Curious, how are you working that out? I sort of struggle to believe it. We've had probably 20 different Tdi vehicles over the years. None will get close to that. And even now I have a 200Tdi 88 with 3.54 diffs in. It runs great and driving it in an economically way it is just like the other 20 Tdi's. No where near 40mpg.
nickjaxe
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Not telling porkies honest...a non turbo will return better results...and I expect you made good use of the turbo...I am a careful driver where my right foot is concerned...average around 50mph....40 plus should be easy for a 200di...its a swb soft top so not to heavy.
My old engine was a 2.25d a diesel not a petrol...it returned around 24mpg.
Nick.
My old engine was a 2.25d a diesel not a petrol...it returned around 24mpg.
Nick.
I return about 30m/gallon on same set up as nick[200Di] with hard top , ashcroft HRT and a heavy foot.
Goes like stink on 205 tyres.
Use an app on my phone to check my speed and with 7.50's on hit 84mph on a run back from Shell island last year.
Goes like stink on 205 tyres.
Use an app on my phone to check my speed and with 7.50's on hit 84mph on a run back from Shell island last year.
300bhp/ton
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I'm not wanting to call you liar or anything. Just wondering how you are working it out. If you are using the ODO in the vehicle, then with 3.54 diffs, it'll be wrong. Occasionally you come across people claiming 40mpg+, either in such setups as yours or sometimes in 90's. Yet they never want to let on how they manage to do in the region of 25% better than everyone else.
As for driving style, I'm full adept at getting good mpg out of vehicles. But I have never witnessed personally from a Tdi. And the fact a D90 really isn't all that different to a Series (a fraction heavier, but not enough to make this kind of difference). And Land Rover used to claim something like 27mpg for a Tdi. Then claims of 40+ mpg would seem to be, either bogus or just miscalculated.
I also don't believe a 200Di would be more economical, that just isn't how turbochargers work I'm afraid.
300bhp/ton
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Check my sig... I too have a Tdi 88.
And have owned and driven many other Tdi vehicles. Yes with 3.54 diffs you can indeed get 84mph+ As for going like stink, a 200Di will likely be making in the region of 70-75hp, which is about the same as a good stock 2.25 petrol. Certainly adequate for a Series, but no rocket ship. And likewise, if you are getting an easy 30mpg all the time with your foot hard down. Then I'd say logically there is greater chance of an error in your calculation. Either in the amount of fuel you are putting in, the miles covered or how you are calculating mpg.
sausage
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I'd go for a 2.1/4 or 2.5 petrol 5 bearing engine, its the nicest smoothest of all, and on a long trip recently I got 12l /100 km running Weber dtml and 3.54 diff's on 235 85 16s crusing at 90 kmh at 2500 rpm all on GPS , I've topped out at 120 kph .
Colthebrummie
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Bob, in your first post you said you just want an economical runaround. In which case get a small Corsa. Series landies are never going to be economical. I love my Series 3 but it is completely impractical from every view point. The only reason anyone would have one is for the sheer joy of driving a quirky icon or the love of tinkering with something mechanical. They are not the best vehicle for anything, not economy, not towing, not driving, not reliability etc. Parts are cheap but you need lots of them. It's a love thing pure and simple. If I was you, I would try everything to keep the original engine unless it has done astronomical mileage. Mine is a petrol because they are easier to work on, faster, quieter and cleaner. Not as economical (relative term) as diesel but for the few hundred miles I drive it per year, it's not a problem. There are plenty of series 3's about, but ones with original engines are becoming rarer because of this desire to change it for a TDI.
Col
Col
