Series 2a restoration

Thanks for this great advice. The dampers are upright. I'll definitely lube the springs too still struggling with what to do on the cross member I know its difficult to give an opinion. Approximately 25% of the rear face is rotten - same with the inside face. Top and bottom are OK. I guess this enough to be replaced?
thanks again Davidss

I hadn't looked at the cross member photos before, and expected someone else to comment. In photo 3, if you grab that loose edge with a pair of pliers and bend it out, then look inside at the amount of rusty metal lying on the floor of the crossmember, remembering that it all started out as good metal, then you will not need to ask 'should it be replaced'. The stuff that hasn't rotted through has lost half its thickness.
New, the chassis was made of 14G steel, very slightly less than 2mm. You wouldn't easily bend that with a pair of pliers.

A replacement cross member from the regular 'addocks will be about 2mm. Richards Chassis use 2.5mm, but that is reckoned to be to withstand the stress of galvanising.
If you are getting someone in to change the cross member, then I'd suggest you ask them for guidance as to what to buy, where from, and what preparation you should do.
If he won't talk to you because he is unable to explain the basics, or can't be bothered, then ask someone else. You are paying, the 'training' is as important to you as the repaired chassis. Also remember that anything that gets hung on the towball is not 'just' on the new cross member, but ALSO on the welds that join it to the chassis.

I know you say you have a poor broadband, so invite yourself somewhere that is better supplied and search both Google and specifically You Tube, on 'changing Rear Cross member'. The results should give you some tips before talking to a welder. Pay good attention to the need to create an alignment frame, clamped to the chassis rail tub supports AND to the existing body mounting tabs of the existing cross member. Once you have cut the old cross member off, this alignment frame will ensure the new cross member goes back in the correct place. You end up with the frame being surplus to requirements, which seems a waste, but it's essential while it's being used.

Good Luck.

Many thanks for the advice. I left the dampers hanging in the compressed position for 48 hours. When I tried to pull them out the movement was jerky and there was a grinding/graunching noise, so I guess they are all knackered.

I have now taken the axles off. One of the housings for the swivel pin bearing was very pitted and the gasket was obviously leaking. When I was dismantling the brake chamber to get at I discovered oil all over the pads and throughout the drum.

Sorry but this leads me to two further questions. 1. Is it possible to renovate the housing - can't find any advice on this, or do I have to buy a new one? 2. Can this be the reason for oil in the break or is it more likely this is brake fluid. Many thanks

Hub oil seal or too slack bearings which would need the oil seals renewing also.
The stub shaft has a collar on it where the oil seal runs if this is badly pitted / worn will need replacing also.

JrEngineer said:

... When I was dismantling the brake chamber to get at it I discovered oil all over the pads and throughout the drum.

Sorry but this leads me to two further questions. 1. Is it possible to renovate the housing - can't find any advice on this, or do I have to buy a new one? 2. Can this be the reason for oil in the break or is it more likely this is brake fluid. Many thanks

Click to expand...

Your may care to monitor the Forum of the Series 2 Club, as well as here. You don't have to be a member, although normally I'd say it's worthwhile. However, as a non-driver, some of the discount benefits aren't available to you.
One other caveat, the Search function on the Forum isn't the best. Better results can be obtained by configuring Google searches to look only in the Forum. Best to read Google Help on how to set that up.

People have recounted renovating the swivel balls with success, although generally the people are outside the UK, where replacement swivels are so much more expensive.

I can't tell if the oil on the backplate etc is brake fluid (oil), or swivel oil.
I think the best check for brake fluid leaks is to peel back the rubber boots on the cylinders. If the piston seals are leaking there will be oil 'inside' those boots, which are dust covers, not oil seals.

The point about the 'land' on which the stub axle oil seal runs is well made. Note that in the parts book it is called a 'distance piece', as that is its main function, to position the wheel bearing away from the inner face of the stub axle flange. Parts suppliers may use a different term. For a 2 / 2A the number is now 599698. As you can see, they don't have to be expensive. When assessing the ones already fitted you are looking to feel with your finger / thumbnail a dip, or ridge, where the oil seal runs.
The associated oil seal is RTC3510C.

HTH

Thanks again for the great advice. When I pulled the rubber dust cap off one end of the cylinder it was all clean, the other end was chokka with clear brake fluid, so I suspect this is my problem. Looking at the bearing seals all seems OK, so I'm hoping I can get away with it. I'll do more research on swivel ball renovation.

I wish I had more money Stripped the other RH brake drum. Dust cap had been glued on - full of oil. Brake drum all gooey and obvious leaking from piston (thanks again Davidss). Oil in dust cap suggests a bigger problem and I think Blackburn is probably right that the stub shaft is worn as there is some play there. Struggling to figure out wots wot and wish I could replace the lot.

Having scraped, grinded, sanded the chasis - very very dissapointing. I have learnt never to make plans before discovering the full extent of the damage. There's patch upon patch upon patch upon rust. A new cross member had already been fitted with long extensions, which meant that my new cross member extensions were too narrow and needed a lot of bodging.

Anyway, built a jig having read all about it... and felt pretty cocky



Three problems. First I should have cut the cross member below the jig before welding it on, otherwise dead tricky to get to. 2. When I finally managed to cut off the crossmember, I realised I shouldve used used angle iron as the jig went all floppy on me. 3 My idiot Dad had the bright idea of lifting the whole chasis into the air using a digger to shake it and get all the rust and crap out, but when he lowered it he broke the jig off completely.

So, and perhaps much simpler, I remounted the tub and spot welded the crossmember into perfect position.



Many hours practising welding so I think I've got enough of the stuff on. Plus I drilled extra holes in the side walls to be sure.



And I've welded more patches.




Springs are soaking (thanks Davidss) but do I really need to replace the bushes as they look fine????




School is getting in the way, but next step paint and waxoyl.

Looking good While the engines out, if it was leaking from the rear crank seal I'd swap it. Its a bit of a pain to do it in situ

You can tell if a clutch is worn, it'll have marks like this on it