Series 2a Project

Hey guys,

I'd like to introduce myself, i'v just bought a SWB 1970 Series 2a as a project its the same model my grandad had when i was a kid.

When i picked it up it wasnt running, but has had a new clutch and slave cylinder. Its tatty but the majority of the chassis is rot free and the bulkhead is good and strong, the chassis needs one patch on the middle rail underneath where the hole is (i dont know the specific name) but its easy to get too so thats good!

Iv since got it running, lots of pumping and cleaning later, glow plugs were at fault but cleaning the terminals has got them working fine and it runs as sweetly as my Frontera does now!
Floor was rotten but iv since unbolted that and put a new checkerplate floor in.
The electrics are a massive mess.

I have two problems which i cannot fathom and am hoping for some advice from you guys.
Firstly, its got a new clutch and slave cylinder so i put some oil in the master to bleed it... seized dead, new master cylinder installed everything feels good, bled it about 5 times at least, and come to put it in gear and it crunches... too much... it works if you pump it which normally id suspect it being cylinders or pipes but its had all fresh... can anybody work out what could be wrong?
I spoke to one bloke who said that when the slave had been put on maybe he missed some plastic cap on the slave piston?
(the work done before me was a bit "cowboy" to say the least)

Secondly, having run this around the yard the brakes are sticking very hard, but only on one side, it had been stored up to a wall with one side open to the elements, i have tried turning the snail cam back and i cant get it free, iv also tried to get the hub off so i can see whats happening inside but it wont come off?
not even with plenty of banging, pulling and screwing! any ideas?
The only thing i can think of is heat or jacking the bad side up and putting it in gear let it shred the linings off until i can get the hub off, i know i'd lose my lining but its a small price to pay really!

Well introduction and first questions over.
Look forward to catching the land rover bug.
Happy 4x4ing

Judd

can i be safe in assuming nobody else has any ideas either then?

to get the drum off first yer gotta get it hot then put a bar through the studs so ye r got a lever to force it round (its a good idea to put the stud nuts on first so yer dont fook the threads on them )
apply pressure to the bar so yer trying to turn the drum while yer wack the drum with a big ammer (use a helper for this as you aint got 4 arms )

once you have movement get a lever round the back of the drum and start working it off it will probably frigg the linings but like you said its a small price to pay another way to get them to release is hitting the back of the drum with the brakes released sometimes shocks the shoes to going back to their original position making it easier to remove the drum

Have a look to see if the slave cylinder is on the right way up with the bleed nipple to the top - if it's upside down you'll never get it bled properly.
I presume you've removed any retaining screws from the drums? The s3 drums have a threaded hole in them that you can put a bolt through to extract the drum - I presume you mean drum rather than hub?. Sometimes you have to undo the snail cams, undo the bleed nipple and tap the drums from side to side to move the shoes so the drums will come off. Stiff drums usually mean that there's a ridge worn in the drums and they might need replacing.
Oh, and have a little patience!

thanks for the replies,

the slave is the right way round, bleed nipple to the top.

When it goes into gear the bite seems to be about half way up the pedal but there is an unholy crunching to get into gear but no pulling forward, i have tried third and fourth on the clutch and it feels better...
could i be right in assuming its a gearbox problem as it has had a new clutch, slave, master and all pipes... and the bite is halfway up the pedal now after plenty of adjustments according to the haynes manuals...?
iv got another gearbox on the way so ill try that and pray!

looks like im taking a big bar to the drums tomorrow, by the way i meant drums not hubs so thanks for bearing with me there. i noticed there is a tapped hole which might help with the removal of the drum, gonna have to keep on trying.

thanks guys

Is it the right clutch? Some of the diaphragms have a big chunk of metal in the middle, some don't. You have to match the clutch to the bell housing, or the throw on the release bearing will be out.
If you really can't get the drum off, you can grind two slits, one each side of the hub and split it off, just like a large nut. Put the slits so they grind the shoes, not the cylinders

Before you go smashing the crap out of your drum try un-doing the two nuts holding the slave cylinder to the backing plate.
The whole lot should then fall in to your lap (You may need to replace the cylinder)
As for the cluch, on a 2A there is no auto ajustment for the cluch, you have to do it yourself on the slave cylinder push rod.