series 2a/3 Radiator

Hi everyone
New to land Rover scene (I'm definitely not new age wise)
Have a series 2a fitted with 12J 90/110 N/A engine,its developed overheating issues,read other members comments etc
Now found a load of slug on top of rad when system drained.could possibly flush out again
My suspicions are head gasket or head issues itself,but would try the easier options first
the radiator looks like the proper rad for 2a
Is there a more efficient replacement rad available
any help would be welcome
Many thanks

All metal rad with really wide top tank, also top tank deeper than the rad core, and all metal? if so thats a proper 2a rad.
Metal fan still fitted, fan fitted the correct way around?
Flush system, kettle descaler or dishwasher powder, rinse/flush well so as not to leave any cleaner in the system.
Fit new stat
Roadtest and see

many thanks
I've taken the stat out ,I'll try the rad flush
not to sure about the fan fitting,its metal with no cowling fitted. not actually touched them,something that was already there
I'm finding out as I go

Hello and welcome

stokey Landy said:

many thanks
I've taken the stat out ,I'll try the rad flush
not to sure about the fan fitting,its metal with no cowling fitted. not actually touched them,something that was already there
I'm finding out as I go

Click to expand...

Stat out wont help as the water will take the easy route and go via the bypass hose and not get cooled by the rad.
Fan really needs cowl to work at max efficiency, but doubt it will make much difference in the UK especially this time of year.
If you look at the fan the curves of the blade need to be like a screw, ie they turn in the direction of travel and try and screw their way forward through the air, bit like an aeroplane propellor, crap description I know!

many thanks
your description is bob on I'll check it all out tomorrow

Welcome to the forum

Hi Folks
I know it's been a some time ago re over heating issue of 12J n/a engine in series 2, ( just got over the Covid virus,but all okay now)
Engine still over heating also when revving at constant it sounds like miss fire/spluttering (poss injector ??), been and had it tested with kit in radiator and fluid turned green in the tester (at land rover specialist)
does anyone know what sort of costs would be involved or is it worth replacing complete unit
Many thanks

stokey Landy said:

Hi Folks
I know it's been a some time ago re over heating issue of 12J n/a engine in series 2, ( just got over the Covid virus,but all okay now)
Engine still over heating also when revving at constant it sounds like miss fire/spluttering (poss injector ??), been and had it tested with kit in radiator and fluid turned green in the tester (at land rover specialist)
does anyone know what sort of costs would be involved or is it worth replacing complete unit
Many thanks

Click to expand...

Are you saying the tester showed the head gasket has failed?

sorry
yes that's what he diagnosed,

So long as everything comes undone then head gasket not a big job, defo diy.

Just googled 12j engine and it appears to be cambelted low down as per 200/300 tdi ie valve gear is push rod driven, which makes head remova/refitting much easier.

Many thanks
was quoted about £900/£1000 including poss injectors and leaking injector pump service,

hi
does anyone know whats the cost would be to replace head gasket with pressure test on head plus injector refurbished on a12J n/a series/ 90/110 engine
many thanks

overheating issues
Had head gasket plus injectors carried out by local land rover specialist but still over heating (def boiling),checked sender unit/gauge
next stop water pump/rad.Need advice on the best available replacement ( seems many out there)
(all of the changes where done by previous owner)
At present a series 2a fitted with 12j n/a (cylinder head No HRC 1474) water pump HRC 1278 with metal fan and what appears to be standard rad (narrow brass top)
many thanks

good afternoon, everyone 12 months later finally cured my overheating series 2a with 12j engine. Having head gasket and water pump replaced, engine and rad flush both ways the temperature gauge went into the red after a short drive
Having finally read and listened to advice including members on here. bought a temperature gun to check all areas of the engine and radiator with temperature readings of 89/95 degrees on the engine
So bought a separate temp gauge from amazon with sender unit, connected it all up and double-checked engine (when hot) with temperature gun and was spot on the same as the new gauge was reading. All that fannying around,
just thought the post may help anyone else in the same situation
many thanks to everyone giving help