Scotland North Coast 500

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19_Hue_95

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Around 4 years ago now four of us stayed at a smallholding on the west side of Loch Eriboll for seven weeks to undertake geological mapping for our degree on the Moine Thrust. For the other two gents we were with it was hell, there was no internet, certainly no signal and it didn’t get dark until well… it didn’t. For myself and the other girl we were with, now my partner and girlfriend, it has sparked a long term love affair with the Highlands.

I honestly don’t know what it is about the Highlands that I love so much, the scenery, the people, the way of life? There is something special and almost magical about it and if I got the opportunity I would move there in a flash.

Sadly, nice views don’t pay bills, but what they do offer is a 18 day holiday (we fiddled the Easter bank holidays and got 18 days holiday from 9…. Work smarter not harder….). So the plan is to head up to Scotland and do the ‘North Coast 500’ route, or at least some of it.

The plan is at the moment to leave home in the Cotswolds around 4am and drive straight up to Inverness in campaign mode, hoping to be there by mid-afternoon / early evening. There is two of us, we both drive hundreds of miles a week for work so I think we can do it. We will stay here the night and spend the next day here too to let our spines recover!

Then comes the hard choice, left or right out of Inver. My initial thought was right, do the east coast first – no offence to the east coast – but I am a remote moorland and mountain guy – Save the best west coast for last…. Just like the roast potatoes! But the more I think about it, the more I am thinking left. Let’s head up the west coast, do what we enjoy, spend our time there then if we run short of time and ‘skip out’ the east coast we won’t feel so sad. Anyway, that’s a decision for another day.

We are in no rush; the route means nothing to us other than easy way of explaining to people where we are going. The plan is to drive as little as possible and see as much as possible. If that means we don’t complete it we don’t complete it….. We can save it for next year’s holiday!

This is our first ‘overlanding’ (if you can really call it that!!) trip in our Defender 110 Station Wagon. When we bought her the idea was to make what I can only describe as a ‘soft overlander’ or ‘weekend warrior’ landrover. Maintaining all the functionality and everyday use of a 5 seat station wagon, but also have the ability to put a clean pair of underwear and a pair of socks in the back and off we go for an impromptu weekend off in Wales or wherever takes our fancy!

I suddenly realised the other day how fast the trip away is coming so have panicked and started buying equipment for the vehicle, were quire lucky that were both avid mountaineers so have a ton of camping equipment – the difference is our equipment is aimed as lightweight one pot means whereas now we are slowly converting over to comfort and practicality instead. I imagen this is a process that will take several years, well it will, its funding dependant!

Nerveless it is surprising what little treats you can find hidden away on ebay – second hand (some look new) two ring gas burner stoves for less than a meal out. We managed to get a stack of ‘Bean Stalk Kitchen’ table thingy’s a year ago when the Scouts were throwing them out… lick of paint and there good as new.

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Take spare fuel cans, my memory of the highlands is that you can't rely on a petrol station being around the next corner, and even if there is, it probably won't be open if it's after teatime.

Col
 
Take spare fuel cans, my memory of the highlands is that you can't rely on a petrol station being around the next corner, and even if there is, it probably won't be open if it's after teatime.

Col

Cheers!
We have two now, also two (different!) ones for water. I remember there was a petrol station in the nearest village to us, still about 10 miles (the next closest was Thurso!) and there was often a note on the door saying "In the pub", we used to have to walk down to the bar and drag the chap out to open up!
 
Anti clockwise is best. As for petrol there are plenty and most now are 24 hours pay by card jobby. Driving from the Cotswold to Inverness is a hell of a trek. We stopped of at the North Kessock hotel as we drove from Selby. Smallish rooms but comfy beds ad the food was super. If you need further info there is a great site on Facebook 'The North Coast 500'. This will tellyou all you need to know from petrol to campsites b and b's to hotel.
We're heading to Ullapool in August and doing as much of the west coast and maybe some of the islands too.
Have a great trip.
 
Good luck for your trip. The NC500 has become a victim of it's own success, so you might want to plan to get away from The Circuit for a day or two and just enjoy the views of something other than the campervan in front of you that you can't get past. Lots of superb wildcamping to be had, but you have to get away from the "route" to find the spots that aren't overused (and p*ss some of the locals off).
 
I wish I was coming with you.

Col

You pay for the diesel and do the cooking and I will make sure there is a space in the back waiting!!! But in all seriousness if you want to join us we would be welcome for the company.

Anti clockwise is best. As for petrol there are plenty and most now are 24 hours pay by card jobby. Driving from the Cotswold to Inverness is a hell of a trek. We stopped of at the North Kessock hotel as we drove from Selby. Smallish rooms but comfy beds ad the food was super. If you need further info there is a great site on Facebook 'The North Coast 500'. This will tellyou all you need to know from petrol to campsites b and b's to hotel.
We're heading to Ullapool in August and doing as much of the west coast and maybe some of the islands too.
Have a great trip.

Out of interest why anti clockwise? We were putting together a rough idea of things we would like to see last night and as a general summary the west coast is pretty views and mountains and the east cost is more country side and 'tourist attractions'.

If time was not an issue, I would go right, travel anti clockwise, and do the east coast first. I know it is certainly beautiful, but to me I much prefer the rugged west coast and would prefer to end on the high of the west coast. But sadly time is a thing, and were thinking of going left, clockwise, and doing what we really want to see first then if we run out of time and have to come home early then so be it.

I have a feeling, I may be wrong, that the east coast will be a lot busier. I am thinking I might try and head inland a bit, not easy. Turn right at Helmsdale and head up to Syre then down to the middle. Or at least travel up to some of these really remote hamlets and middle of nowhere central highlands areas.

Good luck for your trip. The NC500 has become a victim of it's own success, so you might want to plan to get away from The Circuit for a day or two and just enjoy the views of something other than the campervan in front of you that you can't get past. Lots of superb wildcamping to be had, but you have to get away from the "route" to find the spots that aren't overused (and p*ss some of the locals off).

A few people have said that to me now. But from what I remember, be it about 4 years ago now we didn't see many people, we used to watch the camper vans drive past us whilst we were up in the mountains, could count one every hour or two maybe, It was June-July as well - I guess things change fast. Kind of sad really as what made it so special was how secluded it was. The nearest village shop to us was half an hour away and the nearest 'big shop' that sold things that were in date was Thurso! I remember bumping into the postman on the first or second day being up there and he said "anything you want, big or small, let me know... I'll sort it for ya!"

We are going for quite a while, 16 days on the 'route' so don't intend to travel far and very much intend to explore - lots of Munro's to tick off! I know a lot of people who drive it do it in 5 or 6 days and do it for the main reason of saying "we did the route". For us saying 'North Coast 500' is just an easier way of saying 'were driving round Scotland for a bit with no aim or intention', I am really not one for touristy stuff, so the beaten track it is!
 
Cheers!
We have two now, also two (different!) ones for water. I remember there was a petrol station in the nearest village to us, still about 10 miles (the next closest was Thurso!) and there was often a note on the door saying "In the pub", we used to have to walk down to the bar and drag the chap out to open up!
And try to avoid carrying extra fuel / water on your roof rack. It may look good but will have a huge impact on stability.
 
And try to avoid carrying extra fuel / water on your roof rack. It may look good but will have a huge impact on stability.
Extra fuel for a 100 miles or so might be a wise precaution, 10 litres will be enough. As for water....you won't have a problem with that, almost certainly!;)
If you go over Easter it'll be busy in some areas but you'll avoid the worst of the midgies. IME best months are May and June for weather, October-March for traffic (lack of). Avoid July to September unless you only travel overnight in which case I guess some of the journey might seem to lose its point, but the beauty is that as the summer goes on there's less and less darkness so you can kinda swap the usual timings around - get the great driving views with no traffic, and laze on the beach while the convoys of campers clog the roads.
 
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And try to avoid carrying extra fuel / water on your roof rack. It may look good but will have a huge impact on stability.

I love watching people, when I was in Fort William last year there were quite literally hundreds of them with roof racks packed to the hilt. Sure, going across the middle of the Sahara or a Mongolian plain and I can get on-bored with it. I am almost curious to see if they have anything in these boxes on the roof, I mean I am 6 foot 5 and the only time I go on the roof rack is to clean the bird **** off the roof and to pose for photos to prove to my ego just how cool I really am! It must be terribly annoying to have to go up there every timeI want something.

Extra fuel for a 100 miles or so might be a wise precaution, 10 litres will be enough. As for water....you won't have a problem with that, almost certainly!;)
If you go over Easter it'll be busy in some areas but you'll avoid the worst of the midgies. IME best months are May and June for weather, October-March for traffic (lack of). Avoid July to September unless you only travel overnight in which case I guess some of the journey might seem to lose its point, but the beauty is that as the summer goes on there's less and less darkness so you can kinda swap the usual timings around - get the great driving views with no traffic, and laze on the beach while the convoys of campers clog the roads.

My experience is April-May is normally really settled..... but there is no saying if it will be sunny settled or welly boot settled! When we were doing our mapping work up there I remember that it was quite breezy, generally enough to keep the worst of the midgies away. But if you stood looking at an outcrop too long they would soon find you!

I just spotted where your location is.... I am so jealous!
 
I just spotted where your location is.... I am so jealous!
Yes, we're really lucky to have this part of the UK to wander about in. If the SNP would stop fiddling with it then it'd be perfect!
As regards the boxes on the second floor, we find it a good place to stash wet kit and muddy boots since we live in the truck and a muddy, wet dog is more than enough to cope with after a day in the rain and wind...sorry, "Highland summer".
 
How did it go? We are heading off in 10 days time, from the Cotswolds, in our 33 years old 110. Aiming for the west coast, Harris and Lewis, up to Durness then down to Aviemore, finishing in Edinburgh for a few days at the Fringe Festival. 17 days in all. Any advice is welcome
 
How did it go? We are heading off in 10 days time, from the Cotswolds, in our 33 years old 110. Aiming for the west coast, Harris and Lewis, up to Durness then down to Aviemore, finishing in Edinburgh for a few days at the Fringe Festival. 17 days in all. Any advice is welcome

Where about are you in the Cotswolds? We live in Moreton in Marsh.

The west coast is stunning. My favourite place in the world. I think 17 days is a good time to do it in, we had around that and could have easily spent much longer. We left at about 3.30am (personal preference to start early before everyone else was up) and arrived in Inverness about 3pm stopping off once or twice on the way. By the time we arrived we were dead! The next day was spent recovering in Inverness before we set off.

Our trip pretty much took us around the entire coast and down every little lane we could find! I think it will be quite busy now as its summer time, however once you are off the beaten track you will be alone. There is so much to do and see up there I don't know where to start recommending things, I think one of my personal highlights was traveling to Sandwood Bay, its a fair walk to it but so beautiful. If you want some places to visit give us a shout and I will send over our route for you.

One thing I would leave behind when (when... not if) we do it again would be Jerry cans. We took 2 x water and 2 x fuel - the main reason being is they wedged nicely in the back and held things in place. We only ever used 1 water one and even that was too much (we stopped in a lot of campsites and ate out a fair bit so if you are wild camping it might be different) and we have 1 fuel one with us 'just in case' but its still sat in the garage full now. There are a lot of fuel stations around in villages and not bad prices either as most are run for the locals by the locals (cheaper than it is in the cotswolds!) and all were open 24 hours a day self service. So in future I would only take 1 Jerry can for water.

I think the only thing we would have liked / done differently is having a cool box or fridge. We passed loads of lovely shops selling local produce and would have loved to buy some for evening meals but it was very warm at the time and I don't think it would have lasted.

I think the best advice is just enjoy it. We had days where we sat around and watched the world go by, we had days where we climbed mountains, and we had days where we drove up and down the same bit of road 4 time because.... well because. The OS Road Map (Green cover) was the best thing ever. I had the sat nav running in the background for speed and so I could see any sharp corners and turns coming up and Nicola had the Map - just the perfect level of detail and information.

The only bit I do regret is not being able to go off road. There a lot of long gravel forestry tracks up there which would make for some lovely remote driving. I contacted a few estates beforehand and the only one who did reply said 'no', not because he thought we might damage it but because it may give an impression to other passers by - which is fine. I think if you spoke to locals in the pub one evening you would have more success.

Its been a few years since I have been to Edinburgh, but I remember we went to the vaults (i think thats the right name?!), anyway its the underground cellars and tunnels below Edinburgh - it dosent sound that interesting but was fascinating.

If we can help in any way give us a shout!
 
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