Freelander 1 Say hello to new friend ! TD4 needs new engine.

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Many thanks for the details.

As I read the thread the HPFP was most likely not to blame is that correct ??

My plan is clean and fit 4 x 049 working injectors with new seals. Refill with fair but used oil and see what happens.

If level goes up still then refurb the pump or fit a working used one.

Had the oil level risen in your recent repaired one??
Hi Andy.
yes you are correct the HPFP was not to blame, initially the recent FL1 we repaired the oil looked a bit high and was very thin, it was drained and new oil and oil filter fitted, since the then the oil as maintained it's level.

I think if you refit the injectors add new rubber seals and copper washers it may sort it out, clean around the injectors before removal, the ports will will need to be cleaned out also once the injector is out.

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Use flat bar to aid removal of the injectors.
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pry up the injector you can also if you have a spare nut of the fuel pipes add it so you get better purchase when prying up.
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You may still find debris this needs to be hoovered up right away.
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Then the port cleaned out the very best you can.
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Used and new copper washer for comparison
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Thanks for the confirmation.
Injectors are out and the egr is almost fully blocked. This would not help the fuelling!! Will post a photo. I think this is 140k of carbon. Never been off I bet.

Updates later when I get to escape to workshop for a few hours ! ☺️
 
OK it's official. Don't think vehicle has had an inlet clean, egr clean, oil change or filter change or air filter since it left LR all shiny new !!

Have a look at these. The oil filter just fell apart.

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Wonder why it was overfuelling a bit?? Possible, just possible that it couldn't breathe at all.

Sort of feel sorry for the poor thing.
 
How can people let their vehicles get like this… 🤨

That really does deserve some TLC now, and put back on the road with new shiny bits. It’ll love you for years.
 
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It has all been cleaned out, new filters and oil.

Set of injectors to go in tomorrow from a spare working vehicle when the seals and washers arrive and then see what happens !!
 
Wow. Those pics are incredible. If it runs in good order after sorting that egr and manifold, and the lack of filter/oil changes has not killed it I shall be very impressed. Keep us informed Andy
 
OK it's official. Don't think vehicle has had an inlet clean, egr clean, oil change or filter change or air filter since it left LR all shiny new !!

Have a look at these. The oil filter just fell apart.

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Wonder why it was overfuelling a bit?? Possible, just possible that it couldn't breathe at all.

Sort of feel sorry for the poor thing.
Hi Andy.
I agree to be that bad it's never had the EGR or manifold off I've seen a few like that at the Nano meets we have, did you manage to scrap out most of the inlet and out bores in fig 2.

It will certainly be breathing better after that's no doubt.

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looking better.
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This cleans the EGR out great with a tooth brush, then carb cleaner after.
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You need the manifold to be like this if you can.
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lost count of how many i have done.
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And EGR
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Don't forget to wipe the MAP sensor clean also.
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Personally i think the manifold EGR and MAP sensor should be cleaned out every couple of years.

hope it runs good after.
 
All the dirty components will get the full treatment. All in the washer tub waiting. I have a spare set of manifold, egr etc clean and on shelf to reduce turn around times. Changed the cam cover this time also to prevent dirt going into the engine. Hoover pipe and rag blanks for injector holes. Wiped out with solvent. Egr cleaner is good. But lethal on skin !!

Cleaning when I have time and am tooled up and suitably dressed to get filthy. The black stuff is vile and gets everywhere !!

Several months later I pick up a tool and get black hands !! Even my pressure washer got black on the controls !!
 
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Got proven working set of injectors. They actually looked very new and well greased when inserted so obvs not originals.

Cleaned, didn't disassemble as wanted to eliminate any risk of introducing another failure!! New seals and washers. Charged battery and......

Cranks, sounds like not wants to fire but not for long. Turn over sounds normal.

Would not fire and run. Good LP and HP cranking pressure.

Found porous injector return pipe so changed that.

Still just cranks.

Only fault code that reappears (apart from inlet temp sensor which is not present yet) is P1602 Security.

Locks. Flashes LED and unlocks.

Changed cam sensor cos it is easy !! No change.

Having a think !!

Ideas welcome.

Thanks....
 
Checked out fuel rail sensor to ECU wiring, modified loom fitted and continuity checks out ok.

Rather surprised that cracking an injector fuel nut immediately I stopped cranking didn't show residual pressure. May be a clue !
 
The 2 x new looking injectors are neither part number:

0445110049 manual cars TD4
Or
0445110130 auto cars TD4.

They are 0445110030 which appears to be from a Rover 75. Could this cause overfueling and so the diesel in oil problem??

If they don't communicate properly with the ECU then maybe they just open ??

Who knows their Rover cars ?? @Arctic2 please !!
There's no "communication" between the injectors & ECU. Assuming the correct & matching set, the ECU looks at the various sensors & engine load to adjust the the injector pulses.

From various searches I've done, the main difference between BMW 320d, Rover 75 & FL1-TD4 is the internal spring & shim sizes, plus possibly the tip jet size. 320d also have different connectors !! My son got a "refurb" 320d set for his TD4 but we cannot use them !!!
 
Thanks.

Does a HP pump regulator problem throw a fault code??

Beginning to think that the pressure sensor is not telling the truth. No pressure on rail after cranking.
 
Does a HP pump regulator problem throw a fault code??
yes ..
i had one which translated to .. 'sticking regulator' .. on my hawkeye.
motor would start and idle .. but touch the go-pedal, motor would shut down.
i've no idea what other codes might refer to the hp regulator,
and would have to search notes to retrieve the actual code for said issue.
 
Bit more progress.
Wasn't convinced fuel was arriving at the cylinders. Hooked up an external injector with fuel line and electrics in a tray.
Cranking revealed no spray at all.
Hard to read fuel pressure when cranking as I think the feed to the diagnostic socket gets removed when cranking?
Pscan and icarsoft kept resetting to menu when I tried to crank and measure fuel pressure although I did see it yesterday!!
So measured 5v supply was good to rail sensor and also 1.8v signal.to ground which I think is OK. I recall about 2v when running.

So, even though rail pressure looked good, I checked the HP pump regulator seals. Easy to do and all good.

Have to conclude that the ECU is not firing the injectors.

Checked out the injector loom and connectors and all good...

I have a spare ecu but have to change the immobiliser ecu too and we all know where that is !!

Any ideas on how to check ecu is not firing but otherwise happy?? The fault codes suggest no other electrical fault logged. An odd canbus fault appears. 🤔 P1643 appeared today.

Looks like the ecu but I known how reliable they are so still suspicious !!
 
Thanks. Yes did that !

Beginning to think it is a wiring rather than a component failure.

Will be looking for key voltages. If it has ecu, crank and cam sensors and fuel it should run at least...

Injectors are not firing but fuel is present. Unable to check cranking pressure as all diagnostics go off when you turn to crank!!

May be low fuel pressure but sensor is reading 1.6 to 1.8 V when cranking and 0V when not.

Don't know what happens to fire injectors. Looks like they have 12V on one side and ecu output on other to fire. Don't know what signal or voltage they get.

So if anyone can confirm 1.6V is about the right pressure to start or explain how the injectors fire that would really help.

I like to find the cause. It is tempting to swap parts from the scrap car but must resist!!

Have eliminated cam and crank sensors by substitution.
 
Have eliminated cam and crank sensors by substitution.
The only thing I can offer is that I had awful trouble with camshaft sensors on my F1 td4 preventing starting.
Replaced it 3 times over 12 months… (yes, I learned to get a good make)

Double-check the cam sensor you have in is known good by back-probe on the signal wire if you’ve not already.
 
Thanks, tested original and substitute in another vehicle as scope has broken !!

So - I conclude. The HP pump is not providing any sign of pressure after cranking when rail nuts are opened, but the voltage on the HP sensor reads about 1.6V which is the same as a working vehicle cranking which gives a lovely squirt when the rail is opened after cranking!!

Having tested all cables, feeds, replaced injectors (as they had been butchered about with and were all different types) - I conclude the HP pump is not pumping enough pressure to spray the injectors. Have checked the regulator and the O ring looks fine.

Will strip and rebuild the pump. I only have one removal tool so swapping one from my scrap vehicle is tricky and they are similar mileages anyway.

No idea why the pressure sensor appears happy - mystery may be revealed when I fit the new one and check again.
 
To solve this and any further high pressure fuelling problems that come my way, I have purchased a 6,000 PSI gauge and an adaptor that will fit into the hp pressure sensor hole.

This will allow rail monitoring. If low I can also fit the gauge to each injector feed to eliminate a leaky injector. It will also fit the output of the hp pump directly to test that.

As electronics won't give cranking pressure and the sensor seems to give a false impression, a few tests with this should show what the truth is !!!
 
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