Sankey tub, save or scrap??

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Grimmer

Grimmer

THE Winner
Posts
13,678
Location
Lockerbie now, (Lancashire originally)
So I've just been sat outside having a brew and a fag, and looking at my Sankey, the tub of which has definitely seen better days:(:(:(:(
This is something I want to sort out, and I want to refurb the whole thing, the chassis is solid, it's just the tub, that's the problem. Is this even salvageable, or would I be better off sourcing a new tub:confused::confused:, although having had a quick look, they don't seem to be growing on trees at the moment:rolleyes::rolleyes:
I have just bought myself a small Mig set, and hopefully I'll have the brass for a proper regulator and some gas at the end of the month:cool::cool:

So basically, is this worth even attempting, especially for someone who last did a little bit of welding a long time ago:confused::confused:, any advice would be gratefully received, where the hell to start would be of huge help:D:D:D:D

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Dr_evil said:
If you want to sell it I'm looking for a Sankey :p or in your case a skanky sankey ;) but I'll still repair it for meself if you sell :D

But yeah repairable
Click to expand...

So where do I start:confused::confused::confused:, I'm guessing strip the tub off, clean it all up, and see what I've got to work with:confused::confused:, apologies if these are daft questions, but I've never done owt like this, and it is a bit daunting looking at it:eek::eek::eek:
 
Luckily its all flat sections so first off break out the tape measure and make the best guesses you can as to their dimensions. Better to overshoot so if you're not sure, round the number up a little!

After you've got your steel bent up weld it together, i.e. on the wheel arch to tub sides and floor as well as rear tub section so you have one nicely tacked up and easy to manoeuvre piece, or you could do it in two lots so floor and rear and then side and arch


Cut out the rot with a 1mm slitting disc, reciprocating saw whatever you feel like using then try and straighten out as much as you can with mole grips (only cut the part you're going to weld at that point) then tack the new piece in, make sure you like how it looks, add a few more tacks and begin to seam weld, let the parts cool and move to other areas as this will reduce the chance of warping, once done, flap disk down before priming and painting
 
A good steel firm would sell you a large sheet which they will make verious cuts and bends to your measuremants and you get the off cuts

Its years since ive done this , it may cost a bomb now with the price of steel

I
 
chunkymunky said:
If you could make a larger top with tipping capability value would go up no end. Useful for arborists. Might do one myself
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If it was 10x5' and with high sides its more useful. Not gonna get much in a little sankey!

Usually easier having the vehicle tipping anyway. As there is usually a chipper as a trailer.
 
RobRainford said:
If it was 10x5' and with high sides its more useful. Not gonna get much in a little sankey!

Usually easier having the vehicle tipping anyway. As there is usually a chipper as a trailer.
Click to expand...

Hmm. Good point. I was looking at the chance of mounting a splitter to trailer. Seems to be call for it round here. If someone drops a tree turn up and split and remove excess. I like the fact sankey was higher and with tub removed the steel box section frame makes a good top.
 
Right good people of the zone, I'm after some advice/opinions, I've decided that I'm going to 'TRY' and do a proper job of refurbing my trailer:eek::eek::eek:, and thought it better to keep everything to one thread;););).
So the electrics, a lot of the fitting are badly corroded, and I seriously doubt they are going to stand stripping out and re-fitting once I've cleaned up and repainted the chassis:(:(. So should I try and source 'proper' Sankey fittings (at a guess, far more expensive), or would you just upgrade and fit 'modern' lights and new wiring:confused::confused::confused:
All opinions welcomed, I don't think I've done anything worth taking the **** out of YET, Give it time though:p:p.
 
Dr_evil said:
I reckon just rewire with some LED's in the right size, sankey ones will cost a bit and then you can just have a standard 7pin loom without messing with the 12 pin
Click to expand...

It has already has got a 7 pin plug on it;);), but like I say it's the actual light fittings themselves, they are badly corroded, and I would be amazed if I got any of them off in one piece:(:(:(:(, well thats one vote for an upgrade then;);););););)
I'm assuming you can get similar new lights, size shape etc:confused::confused::confused::confused:
 
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