Sam's new engine build thread!! HELP! :D

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Mr Noisy said:
morning fellas

firstly thanks for the help so far!

have just ordered an engine stand, thought i could get hold of one yesterday but the fella sold it years back! :(

anyway!

jai, regards flywheel, this engine belongs in a disco, and it will be a low speed off roader. as much as i like the v8 performance and power on and off road, it spends a lot of its time crawling, so a big fly is probably the better option?

fett, i fully believe what i have been told about this engine, i can see it is a new crank, and i will get some more pics up when i get this stripped down a bit for you guys to look at. i have receipts for over £400 already so this must have been a decent deal!

like you say, it's definitely better than my current engine PLUS its full of new bits :)

unfortunately i do not have the provision to run this outside of the car, he kept the inlet and carb. tbh im thinking very positively, i will get more pics along the way so you guys can check it for me :D :D and then it'll get built up, thrown in and then i'll cross my fingers and turn the key!

i expected it to be around 165bhp because thats what the standard efi disco engine is. i noticed someone saying the sd1 and disco engines are very different, i was under the impression they were the same!! although this is a 10A engine and the disco is a 24D iirc so maybe theyre right!!

i hope it'll be ok anyway! :)
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efi disco engine and efi sd1 engine are not mega differnt internally. its the front cover and compression ratio and flywheel that are the main differnces. both are fine for what you want bud. (if it does have an sd1 front cover cant remember what your said) just check it fits in the disco and your fan etc line up and fit or if there are probs just swap your old front cover etc to the new engine.

When I bought my sd1 engine the bloke was kind enough to throw in a set of payne gaskets and a genuine front cover gasket and the front cover form a landy :D I was well chuffed
 
Hi fett

Yeah I'm going to fit the land rover front end for sure. Sd1 front has can much lower and in the centre whereas landy fitment is engine to the left so the fan in nearer the right hand side, also much higher.

First job wire brush new engine to tidy it up, then strip it down to remove what I do not need, then pull my engine and swap bits over.

Both my old and new engines are 9.35:1

Cheers :)
 
so you may be around 165 bhp if its low comp and those special rings he fitted work :D

Hope it goes ok, Dont forget to prime the fuel so you arnt cranking for ages when you should be breaking the cam in :)
 
Mr Noisy said:
John, Have to say I regard coffee tables as a waste of a good engine, so probably not. Would much rather a v8 lawnmower or similar...

I have the coffee table and just happen to have bought a very cheap ride on lawn mower. Was going to go racing but may have another idea now
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Lol yeah, fingers crossed for the ring bodge :)

Thanks for that tip fett, from what I hear it's fire it up, check for oil circulation and then straight up to 2000rpm for 30mins. Then it's onto road running in, which means light throttle and under 3k revs and no constant rpms for any noticeable amount of time, ie drive carefully around open roads allowing the engine to loosen up without any major loading for the first 500 miles.

Exciting!

Should call those special rings 'ridge bodger' :D

John, regards that mower, watch this space!!
 
Think the best thing is , like you say sam, get your engine out , transfer bits , and get it running in your landy.. at least then you know what your up against once its running. like already said , dont think the guy would of gone to all this trouble, too fit it , and then know he would have to take it out, and start again. Hope all goes well ....:)
 
he said to me that he bought it with the intention of a service, tune up and fit. then as things went on he realised there was no point fitting it if it was going to have to come out again in a year's time, so he ended up giving it a rebuild.

for my purposes i think it will do just fine. the use of graphogen assembly compound makes me think he didnt just throw it together on the cheap in a rush.

thanks for the help :)
 
vary the cam break in between 2 and 2.5k revs bud.

Just a though, I remember you set your afm a little lean to save gas- do you think this could have contributed to the rings failing on your old motor? if so dont do it to this one :p
 
Other way round fett, it was set ****ing ultra lean so when I checked it (after 3 years!) I had to rich it up quite a lot!

I have recently bought a CO meter so I should be able to tune the airflow meter according to emissions not just afm voltage :)

I have had the afm set nicely for around 6 months so I dont think it finished it off! Ran much better riched up for sure! :)
 
1spin said:
Think the best thing is , like you say sam, get your engine out , transfer bits , and get it running in your landy.. at least then you know what your up against once its running. like already said , dont think the guy would of gone to all this trouble, too fit it , and then know he would have to take it out, and start again. Hope all goes well ....:)
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of course he would as a lot do ,people like cams etc,not bores/piston condition as they cant easily do anything about it ,others they can bolt on themselves
 
Mr Noisy said:
he said to me that he bought it with the intention of a service, tune up and fit. then as things went on he realised there was no point fitting it if it was going to have to come out again in a year's time, so he ended up giving it a rebuild.

for my purposes i think it will do just fine. the use of graphogen assembly compound makes me think he didnt just throw it together on the cheap in a rush.

thanks for the help :)
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he didnt though ,yours might be fine though ,i never use compounds as its off as soon as oil flows ,cams wear through poor hard facing and design not poor lube on run in
 
Basically at £400 quid it wasn't dear, it if works ok for a few years bonus, if it's ****ed oh well start again and save some money on parts. Will be very suprised if it doesn't last a couple years think, it hardly gets used!!
 
Mr Noisy said:
Basically at £400 quid it wasn't dear, it if works ok for a few years bonus, if it's ****ed oh well start again and save some money on parts. Will be very suprised if it doesn't last a couple years think, it hardly gets used!!
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dont get me wrong i wish you luck ,and as fett said worth it for parts ,just trying to make a point ,tuning starts with pistons /bores ,been able to use an engine is different
 
all too often people throw money at cams and plenty of bling and not actually end up with anything decent. Hopefully you got a good deal. I had a rebuilt 3.9 stripped looked all good but opted for a known 3.5 because of the unknown factor of the previous builder. all looks good but unless you pull it all apart and start fresh you just don't know too many chancers for my liking so I took the safe route.

Hopefully you will have it all sussed and sorted soon. and fingers crossed for you because were all hoping for a good outsome!
 
Thanks guys yeah I see your point(s)!

Next week I will start working on it, the only thing I can do is hope for the best really that the lad knew his ****.

After meeting/chatting I'd say he wasn't a chancer/winger/pikey so he must have thought it was ok.

Or not perhaps, that's why he sold it :D

Hey ho, pays your money, takes your chance...!
 
Mr Noisy said:
Other way round fett, it was set ****ing ultra lean so when I checked it (after 3 years!) I had to rich it up quite a lot!

I have recently bought a CO meter so I should be able to tune the airflow meter according to emissions not just afm voltage :)

I have had the afm set nicely for around 6 months so I dont think it finished it off! Ran much better riched up for sure! :)
Click to expand...

Lol, I guess I remember it the wrong way round- mind you three years ultra lean cant have helped :p
 
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