Safari tailgate chequer panel fix. Pop riveter, rivet size query.

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Corfewoodsman

Corfewoodsman

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I have decided to cover the ropey looking lower part of my rear door with a 2mm chequer plate panel.
Can anyone recommend a not too expensive hand riveter and advise me of the size of rivets I'll need?

I doubt that I'm alone in doing this, and am clearly inexperienced, so any guidance I receive will be very welcome.

Thank you for your attention and, in advance, for any advice you may give.
 
3/16 or 4.8mm in new money rivet size, 5mm drill makes life easier.
Cheap hand rivet guns are rubbish, but used with care they can do the job.

Lazy tong riveters are much better, and even the cheap ones are okayish.

Countersunk rivets in countersunk holes will make the bodge look reasonably smart.
 
lynall said:
3/16 or 4.8mm in new money rivet size, 5mm drill makes life easier.
Cheap hand rivet guns are rubbish, but used with care they can do the job.

Lazy tong riveters are much better, and even the cheap ones are okayish.

Countersunk rivets in countersunk holes will make the bodge look reasonably smart.
Click to expand...


Thank you lynall,
I shall follow your excellentl advice.
I am quickly becoming a master of bodge!
Cheers again.
 
lynall said:
Cheap hand rivet guns are rubbish, but used with care they can do the job.
Lazy tong riveters are much better, and even the cheap ones are okayish..
Click to expand...

Much depends on the amount of use you are going to get over the years. My Draper hand gun has lasted me 30 years, but probably only been used for about 20 projects in that time, and fewer than 500 rivets. Currently available for just over 20 notes. (with selection of rivets!)
:)
 
lynall said:
I always remember this guy called Mervin, he borrowed my lazy tongs, and I said watch your fingers, he came back a few minutes later blood all over the place!
Click to expand...


I'm going to have to keep my wits about me, if I can remember where I left them.
 
Beneagles said:
Much depends on the amount of use you are going to get over the years. My Draper hand gun has lasted me 30 years, but probably only been used for about 20 projects in that time, and fewer than 500 rivets. Currently available for just over 20 notes. (with selection of rivets!)
:)
Click to expand...

I don't plan to make a career out of it so that may well be the way forward with a better chance of coming out of it with my fingers.

Thank you lynall and frog hopper, you've been a great help.
Beneagles said:
Much depends on the amount of use you are going to get over the years. My Draper hand gun has lasted me 30 years, but probably only been used for about 20 projects in that time, and fewer than 500 rivets. Currently available for just over 20 notes. (with selection of rivets!)
:)
Click to expand...

Thank you for that Beneagles. 20 projects, and 30 years, Would make me very happy!
Cheers
 
Beneagles said:
Much depends on the amount of use you are going to get over the years. My Draper hand gun has lasted me 30 years, but probably only been used for about 20 projects in that time, and fewer than 500 rivets. Currently available for just over 20 notes. (with selection of rivets!)
:)
Click to expand...


The problem with cheap tools is, what was cheap 30 years ago is top class quality compared to the cheap tat available now.

I am always amazed to see that stuff I bought 20/30 years ago can now be bought cheaper new than what I paid.
 
image.jpeg
First of all, thanks to lynall, frog hopper and Beneagles. Lynall for his advice on riveting, frog hopper for his note of caution and Beneagles for his advice on choice of tool. I have heeded you all and am pleased to have completed the task without mishap.
In the end I went for a hand riveter as suggested by Beneagles but purchased a 'Faithfull' brand from my local good old fashioned agricultural iron monger.
This did everything I wanted it to without any of the problems reported in the reviews of most mainstream and cheaper products. It also came with a 5 year guarantee.

When I removed the adhesive Chevron sheet, through which the door was visibly bubbling, the metal beneath looked really rough. Having my trusty angle grinder on me, to lower the profile of the door rivets in preparation for fitting the panel, I attacked these areas with it and to my surprise good metal was exposed!
This would probably have provided a sufficient base for filling and painting but I continued to fit the chequer plate after coating the whole area to be covered with Hammerite.

Anyway, I am pretty happy with the result and only had to modify the chequer plate by a tiny amount to achieve a good fit.

Once again, thanks for your help.

Corfewoodsman (Now a.k.a. in some circles as Sultan of Bodge.)
 
I'm not a great lover of checker-plate on the outside of Land Rovers, all too often it's just there to hide something.
Having said that, it looks like you've done yourself proud there, nice job. (and good to read your panel was in good order as well)
 
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