Series 3 S3 2.25D Smoke!

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Turboman said:
That is a good plan with the sprayers, you will usually notice quite a difference in the way it runs from having recons. :)

Dont forget to get rid of the two stroke, you will find it undissolved in a red or green pool in the bottom of the tank, it doesnt dissolve in diesel, not reason it should, not formulated to!
It always reduces smoking when we have got it out of friends vehicles, many have been taken in by the myth.

Quite a few years since I have had one of them, iirc they dont have timing pins. If you are sure that you have set up the timing chain and its sprockets correctly, I think the final adjustment is just turning the pump on its mountings til it runs right. I would loosen the injector pipes first, not impossible to snap them. And make sure there are clear marks on the pump flange before you start, so you can go back where you were at the beginning.
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Will agree on the myth, but it seemed to do my little fiesta well! But ill make it a point i havent at all touched the timing chain! Sorry im confusing everyone when i talk about the pump timing, which is all i have delt with so far, when adjusting the pump (ever so slightly) can the engine be running so to see the best running point?!
 
RyanDay1 said:
Will agree on the myth, but it seemed to do my little fiesta well! But ill make it a point i havent at all touched the timing chain! Sorry im confusing everyone when i talk about the pump timing, which is all i have delt with so far, when adjusting the pump (ever so slightly) can the engine be running so to see the best running point?!
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Sorry, thought you said earlier you had changed the chain.
I dont do it running, and it would only tell you about idling. Make some clear marks on the flange, there may be a pointer. Turn the pump just the merest bit, then do it up, drive it, if it doesnt help, turn it back. There will be an arrow on the pump body for direction of rotation.
All this should be in a manual? You will need one if you are running a series! ;)

What problem do you think you are addressing by putting 2 stroke in your fuel?
 
[QUOTE="Turboman, post: 3691509, member: 499seey, thought you said earlier you had changed the chain.
I dont do it running, and it would only tell you about idling. Make some clear marks on the flange, there may be a pointer. Turn the pump just the merest bit, then do it up, drive it, if it doesnt help, turn it back. There will be an arrow on the pump body for direction of rotation.
All this should be in a manual? You will need one if you are running a series! ;)

What problem do you think you are addressing by putting 2 stroke in your fuel?[/QUOTE]
The 2 stroke thing is just a trial trick to see if what people reckon works, they reckon it helps burn fuel off more effectively and reduce monoxides, again who really knows its a myth! But it did seem to help my fiestas cold rough idle just the slightest amount and quiet it down on the motorway, but all those could be placebos. I actually have 2 manuals (haynes) haha! But i dont always notice what is in there, even though theres pretty much everything...
Id assume if it is injection timing, which i will try after injectors are tested, it will be retarded injection, so if adjusted how would i know if i had advanced the injection too much? Really rough running? Change of smoke? :S
 
In the absence of timing pin holes, I would look for a fastish idle, and revving up smoothly through the rev range. Obviously you dont want a lot of smoke, but I dont worry too much, a lot of old diesels smoke a bit, but run fine. As I say, clear marks so you know what you have done.

Haynes arent always the best manuals, genuine lr probably has good info. You can download for free, it will tell you how to do this on the forum if you search. Or you can get paper reprints by post if you prefer.

Placebo is a good word. ;) :) And explains many things.

More power and less emissions try a cetane booster, they are available. I wouldnt worry about that on an old series, but fuel lubricity can be an issue for old CAV pumps, so I would, and do, run a lubricity additive in my Ninety,and also in my 83 Massey tractor. The one I use is Ecomax, quite a few brands are available. Specifically made to do the job, and adds 1-2p a litre to fuel cost, probably less than the 2-stroke oil. Ecomax is three way, lubricity, cetane boost, and injector cleaner.
 
Turboman said:
In the absence of timing pin holes, I would look for a fastish idle, and revving up smoothly through the rev range. Obviously you dont want a lot of smoke, but I dont worry too much, a lot of old diesels smoke a bit, but run fine. As I say, clear marks so you know what you have done.

Haynes arent always the best manuals, genuine lr probably has good info. You can download for free, it will tell you how to do this on the forum if you search. Or you can get paper reprints by post if you prefer.

Placebo is a good word. ;) :) And explains many things.

More power and less emissions try a cetane booster, they are available. I wouldnt worry about that on an old series, but fuel lubricity can be an issue for old CAV pumps, so I would, and do, run a lubricity additive in my Ninety,and also in my 83 Massey tractor. The one I use is Ecomax, quite a few brands are available. Specifically made to do the job, and adds 1-2p a litre to fuel cost, probably less than the 2-stroke oil. Ecomax is three way, lubricity, cetane boost, and injector cleaner.
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I will certainly get on that! yeah placebo works for everything in vehicles, when working with my series theres a lot id prefer not to know, and what you dont know cant hurt you! ;) that stuff sounds great i'll hunt it down, thanks for your help buddy ill keep this updated as much as possible, bit of a delay my missy just took a hit in the side of her peugeot so gotta get that done then will take a trip to the injector people in Cambs!
 
RyanDay1 said:
I will certainly get on that! yeah placebo works for everything in vehicles, when working with my series theres a lot id prefer not to know, and what you dont know cant hurt you! ;) that stuff sounds great i'll hunt it down, thanks for your help buddy ill keep this updated as much as possible, bit of a delay my missy just took a hit in the side of her peugeot so gotta get that done then will take a trip to the injector people in Cambs!
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Best of luck with that. Keep us posted! ;) :)
The injector place will probably have fuel additives too. If you are interested, google diesel fuel additives, quite an interesting subject.

Sorry to hear about your missus, hope she and her car are OK! :(
 
I also use the Millers Ecomax. I run it at double strength (which it says you can). I'm a little scepticle of such additives but this stuff definitely makes it run smoother and a little less smoke. Without it mine sounds just a little more knocky. Available from most Halfords shops too for convenience.
 
Land Raver said:
I also use the Millers Ecomax. I run it at double strength (which it says you can). I'm a little scepticle of such additives but this stuff definitely makes it run smoother and a little less smoke. Without it mine sounds just a little more knocky. Available from most Halfords shops too for convenience.
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Good idea! :) Will be good for your Injector pump, the modern diesel is very thin and dry compared to what that pump was made to run on! ;)
 
honolulujoe said:
someone on here said an old truckers trick was to stick atf in, or is that just an urban myth too
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Yes.

Blackburn said:
I am using Millers as well buying it off ebay , possibly cheaper than Halfords but comes delivered to door.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...lers.TRS0&_nkw=millers+diesel+ecomax&_sacat=0
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Good plan! :) I get the 5 litre cans, I also use it in my red diesel tank. Much cheaper that way, although not ideal for the low mileage user.
 
Turboman said:
Yes.



Good plan! :) I get the 5 litre cans, I also use it in my red diesel tank. Much cheaper that way, although not ideal for the low mileage user.
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I'll go have a look in halfords im due one of my atleadt weekly trips, got a trade card so i go wild in there! Ive currently got red diesel in the tank as well at the mo, and not the finest of stuff but its new at least, being off the road n all, just took me 2 hours to get 4 injectors out of the block one took 30 mins i had to wrap it in string to get the bugger out! Gonna take em all (including the new one) for a testing at a specialists see what they think, my new one came out especially black towards the bottom and after brake cleaning the hell out of them all the new one was still the filthiest but the least carbonized obviously, its been running no more than an hour total with that injector so suprosed how mucky it was...? My mate managed to drive the ol girl by slamming in gear, clutch isnt all there still on bleeding front, but great to see it move :D off to do some injector testing!!
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Those will certainly benefit from reconditioning, from the look of them.
They are hard to get out because of the carbon build up. It is caused by leakage past the injector washers. Each sprayer has two washes, one copper, and one steel. Get the steel ones out of the holes using a pencil, loosen the first with a screwdriver. The injector place will give you a new set, they must be changed every time. Fit the little steel tip washer with the corrugation upwards.

I would try and get on to that bulkhead rust with some rust resist paint too! ;):)
 
Yeah i went and got the old oil bath to give it a clean but im waiting on getting a fresh hose as id just taped it up to keep it clean was covered in dust and was filthy! Had a cone on it temporary, i'll remember that washer request, 1 or 2 was easy to pull out but 1 did not budge!! Got to the point i considered wrapping the baler string to the front loader on a tractor haha! :D ive also got a mega leak on the spill rail because the banjo bolts knackered, it happened before which was why i replaced 1 injector as the thread went, thanks for the pointers!
 
At risk of upsetting your diesel place be sure to tell them you want the pressures set at 130/135 bar. Higher than that buggers up the running. Replace or anneal the copper spill rail washers, to anneal just heat to red colour and drop in water. If you replace they are sometimes made from aluminium.
 
divie said:
At risk of upsetting your diesel place be sure to tell them you want the pressures set at 130/135 bar. Higher than that buggers up the running. Replace or anneal the copper spill rail washers, to anneal just heat to red colour and drop in water. If you replace they are sometimes made from aluminium.
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Thanks divie, i didnt have any washers on the spill rail though, and im certain there never were any, i was worried about those injector ones, havent fished them out or noticed them until turboman mentioned them so i dont have them on me and was nipping to the place on the way home, will see what they say!
 
RyanDay1 said:
Thanks divie, i didnt have any washers on the spill rail though, and im certain there never were any, i was worried about those injector ones, havent fished them out or noticed them until turboman mentioned them so i dont have them on me and was nipping to the place on the way home, will see what they say!
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Make sure you get all the steel washers out. Sometimes there will be several old ones down the holes, there is no hope they will seal, and it puts the nozzle too far back for good spray form. You must get them all out, and then replace with four new ones the right way up if it is going to work properly.
 
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