S3 2.25 petrol won’t crank

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Honeystone7272

Member
Posts
22
Location
East Midlands
Hi.
My s3 hasn’t been started in 5 years but I’m struggling to make it turn. I have the head off and I can hand turn it with from the crank nut using a long lever but it’s very stiff. I thought I might be able to turn it on the starter but it doesn’t want to know. The starter and battery are good and when off the car the starter does what it should. Engaged with the flywheel though it does nothing, just spins a bit but won’t turn the engine. I’ve tried WD40 in the pots but it’s still really stiff. Just wondering how easy it should be to turn the engine with the head off, fairly easy I would have thought, and if the engine is too stiff how do I free it up. There is plenty of new oil in it

thanks
 
Don't use wd40, it must be the most miss used substance on Earth It will wash oil off the bores and make it harder to turn. Try putting engine oil or ATF down the bores and let it soak for a bit. That should give you a fighting chance.
 
If you haven't got any ATF then diesel/oil mix is also good, let it soak down past the pistons.
With the head of it should turn fairly easily. Might not be much oil on the bearing shells though
 
How much have you managedto turn it by hand? If there is a tight spot in one of the cylinders, I would have thought there would be.part of it that was relatively free and so easier to turn, also if the head is off you should be able to see the state of the cylinder walls. It might be a siezed big end.

Col
 
I’ve turned it quite a few revolutions now. Some strokes are easier than others that’s for sure - so like 1 and 4 come up it is harder than when 2 and 3 come up if you know what I mean. Overall though it seems a bit tight and not very smooth.
 
Leave some penetrating oil in each cylinder for a few days and then work it by hand as much as you can adding more penetrating oil as it disappears. If it it remains tight you might need to replace the big ends. Its pretty rare for the mains bearings to fail but not unheard of. What was the engine like before it was laid up?

Col
 
The engine was fine. It ran Ok and seemed quite smooth. I’m getting conflicting advice on the oil to put in the pots. Some say penetrating oil, some say avoid it because it dries out the cylinders
 
Honeystone7272 said:
The engine was fine. It ran Ok and seemed quite smooth. I’m getting conflicting advice on the oil to put in the pots. Some say penetrating oil, some say avoid it because it dries out the cylinders
Click to expand...
Personally, I use diesel for this sort of thing. Many on here have their favourite but diesel works well, is easily available and is cheap compared to other stuff, £1.40 for a whole 1000ml. If you have to put to much down the bores, you may need.to change the oil when the engine is working again. If the bores dry out, use a clean rag and smear some engine oil around the cylinder walls before putting the head back on and leave the spark plugs out when you turn it over to allow any excess oil to blow out.

Col

Col

Col
 
Just to clarify, WD40 is *not* penetrating oil. That's the stuff to avoid, but any of proper penetrating oil, diesel or ATF should help.
 
Given you can turn the engine by hand then the starter should turn it over, after all with the head on it has to overcome the compression as the pistons rise. As the engine has turned it is not seized. Is it original battery ? How do you know it is good ? It may read 12v and be able spin a free starter but loaded is another matter.
Bad batt or bad starter/connections
 
If the engine is still attached to the gearbox then it could be a clutch or gearbox issue rather than the engine. Remove the engine before you go any further. It is not uncommon for the clutch plate to stick to the flywheel after lying up for a while.
 
Even if clutch is stuck as long as box is in neutral starter should still turn it over no problem, you are only spinning the clutch and first motion shaft. As an extra you can also put transfer in neutral as well.
 
Quick update on this
I removed the engine and it’s on the beach now. It still takes a long bar to turn the engine
I removed the clutch and plate and it was the same. I removed the flywheel and all of a sudden everything is free and I can turn the crank quite easily by hand now and it’s pretty smooth
Put the flywheel back on and it’s impossible to turn by hand and when it does it is ‘lumpy’
I know the flywheel is very heavy but I would have thought I should still be able to turn the engine by hand ?
Any thoughts ? Would crank bearings or big end bearings cause this ?
 
I can not see how bearings would have anything to do with this. However having got this far you may as well take a look.
When you say "turn by hand" is that by just your hand or with a short spanner ? It does take a fair bit of force to start something as heavy as a fly wheel moving.
I did once have a problem when a bolt holding the fly wheel housing to the block unscrewed and contacted the back of the wheel. Made a hell of a noise though. Check back for contact evidence.
 
Hi. Yes I thought about a loose screw. No noise or evidence of one though. By hand I mean I have to put a long bar on the crank pulley nut and lever it quite hard to get it to turn. With the flywheel off I can just grip the pulley and turn it quite easily. The difference between the two scenarios isn’t just how easily I can turn it, with the FW off the crank turns smoothly and freely. With the FW on it feels lumpy and uneven.
 
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