S2a rocker/arm hangup?

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or maybe the brass cam follower although they were rising and falling of their own weight without the valve train pushing them. The camshaft is ETC 7128 and can be used on all the petrol and diesel engines up into about 1994. It has slightly more lift but will work in SII and SIIa and SIII engines as well as some others that are newer as I understand it. But it required a shorter pushrod which I have. It still begs the question since I had the head milled that 100 thousandths perhaps the pushrods are a wee bit too long. Okay so they will go in and can be lashed properly, but that doesn't guarantee they are the right length for the rocker geometry does it?
I am waiting to hear back from Turner Engineering and Cradock to see what they say.
 
Cradock said their pushrods are 7 inches long. I returned a note to clarify if they are actually 7 inches or like mine 7 3/16 inches. I'm holding on returning the rocker assembly to the engine until I have more information on pushrod length for my situation,
 
I hate to ask again.
But the "slack"?
The valve is off cam and the rocker moves, its the valve that is stuck?
I cant get past this.

Is the head off at the moment?

J
 
I hate to ask again.
But the "slack"?
The valve is off cam and the rocker moves, its the valve that is stuck?
I cant get past this.

Is the head off at the moment?

J
You're good. When it has jammed the rocker is in the valve max open position. The rocker is not free it is still compressing the valve spring. I don't really know about the pushrod. It seemed okay,but I did not try to rotate it. I just tried to put a 1/2 inch box wrench on the adjuster nut and that amount of movement released whatever was causing the jam and the valve snapped shut. No the head is back on. I took it off in desperation and dismantled each valve. They were all free but I spun them in a hand drill with some 400 wet/dry paper and hand lapped the valves just for good measure but they were fine. Seals good and in place.
 
Can you replicate this everytime when you turn the engine by hand?

How many valves stick?

If you can then try very carefully to push the rocker, it should move with hardly any pressure.

Need to read back, but I believe you have totally disassembled the rocker shaft. Are the rockers “handed” (inlet, exhaust) have you mixed some?

Just chucking questions I know but maybe someone will have a “light bulb” moment.

J
 
Can you replicate this everytime when you turn the engine by hand?

How many valves stick?

If you can then try very carefully to push the rocker, it should move with hardly any pressure.

Need to read back, but I believe you have totally disassembled the rocker shaft. Are the rockers “handed” (inlet, exhaust) have you mixed some?

Just chucking questions I know but maybe someone will have a “light bulb” moment.

J
no I can't replicate it. only happened a few times when I turn it over by hand. Beyond that it has been the engine running very rough, dying rather than idling, vacuum gauge reading ~5 psi indicating late valve timing or sticking valves. Rockers are handed and on the right and left way.
 
You're good. When it has jammed the rocker is in the valve max open position. The rocker is not free it is still compressing the valve spring. I don't really know about the pushrod. It seemed okay,but I did not try to rotate it. I just tried to put a 1/2 inch box wrench on the adjuster nut and that amount of movement released whatever was causing the jam and the valve snapped shut. No the head is back on. I took it off in desperation and dismantled each valve. They were all free but I spun them in a hand drill with some 400 wet/dry paper and hand lapped the valves just for good measure but they were fine. Seals good and in place.
Ok, let's isolate the problem. Get one to stick. Feel the pushrod for movement before doing anything else. If the valve or rocker are stuck then it follows that the cam has moved on and the pushrod should be in danger of falling sideways out of the tappet.
 
Okay, that is about where I am. Cradock said "std 7 inch pushrods". Turner said the pushrods they use for engines 7:1 going to 8:1 are #546798 and they work. My pushrods are 546798. So I will put the rocker assembly back on the engine and very slowly turn it over by hand to see if one sticks and go from there.
 
Soo~ the engine is back together again and running better!! I adjusted the clearance to .012, ran the engine looking and feeling the action of each rocker. The valves seem to be operating smoothly oiling well. I think polishing the rocker pads did it! To help a little I have the lash slightly on the loose side at 12 and it is not noisy. It still doesn't want to idle down it dies. And the vacuum gauge is still reading around 5 psi. I haven't found an intake leak. I am going to move the vacuum pickup to the intake plenum directly below the carb mounting and see what happens. I want to thank all of you for your great help and support!! I hope that I am past the "sticking valve" part of the problem. We'll see. Again, your support really made a big difference. I started the rebuild 2 years ago. it was finished about this time last year. Since then I have been chasing all those other issues that can pop up and slow everything down. I'm feeling better!!!
 
>>I am going to move the vacuum pickup to the intake plenum directly below the carb mounting and see what happens.

Yes, you need to use the large vacuum take off for the brake servo.

If you measure near the throttle valve, you are not measuring the full vacuum, and will get misleading results.
 
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