Séries 3 Diesel Advice

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Longstride

Longstride

Active Member
Posts
120
Location
Hampshire
Hey LandyZoners,

I've just bought a 1982 Series 3 pickup diesel, marine blue, on eBay. I've either got a great bargain or bought a dog! But I love a gamble and the seller seems genuine and straight.

It's been off the road since 2009, but apparently dry stored with what look like 58k original miles and original engine. Chassis is supposedly good and looks it in pics. It starts and runs but a bit smokey.

I don't know diesels, only petrol. My question is what advice can you offer me in checking it over? What should I look for? I've already bought it, so any tips on where to start to get it running nice? I'd normally start with fuel, carbs etc on a petrol!

Cheers
 

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If it not been MOTed get it done and they will find out what needs doing. Or better still a proper Land Rover mechanic local who can give you a better assessment. Later Series 3 had issues with rotting chassis quicker than earlier 3 versions. If it been sitting idle then there must have been a reason as smoking diesels tend to be the norm crud in the tank filters needing replacing good service required. But having inspecting first for hidden gems
 
Might get more help in the series section but as your ere :D

Smoke is a good give away for how its running. Colour and when etc. Tappet clearances, oil and filter, coolant. Just the usual stuff. Worth checking all the oils including engine, gear box, transfer box, steering box, axles. Check all the electrics are working and have a tap around the chassis and bulkhead. Then bang it in for an MOT.
 
There's a series section!? ;) I'm learning more about this forum every day!

Thanks guys. I'm fairly series savy now, it's the diesel engine part I'm looking for help with. I can handle brakes, basic chassis checks etc and will definitely pass it by a proper mechanic and see how that goes.

If it were the petrol 2.25 I'd be right at home. It's the diesel I've no idea about? For example is there an equivalent of tweaking the carb or setting the mixture? Do I need to check anything on the pump? Or is it a case of getting a professional to strip it down and take a look?

Just keen to get fiddling myself ;) but no idea where to start on this engine (partly why I bought it, something new to learn).

Cheers
 
Longstride said:
There's a series section!? ;) I'm learning more about this forum every day!

Thanks guys. I'm fairly series savy now, it's the diesel engine part I'm looking for help with. I can handle brakes, basic chassis checks etc and will definitely pass it by a proper mechanic and see how that goes.

If it were the petrol 2.25 I'd be right at home. It's the diesel I've no idea about? For example is there an equivalent of tweaking the carb or setting the mixture? Do I need to check anything on the pump? Or is it a case of getting a professional to strip it down and take a look?

Just keen to get fiddling myself ;) but no idea where to start on this engine (partly why I bought it, something new to learn).

Cheers
Click to expand...
Not a lot you can do with diesel "tuning" as such without specialised equipment, "tinkering" with injection pumps by unqualified amateurs is not wise, but, that being said, making sure the fuel line filters and sedimenters etc are clean is a great first step, clean moisture free fuel is essential to injection pump well being and clean running, air leaks on fuel lines are your enemy, check all connectors and lines for perforation/air ingress points.
An engine oil and filter change would be also of benefit, check the engine valve clearances and adjust to spec, also a new induction air filter element will be a good investment.
If there are still issues with the engine operation after all the above have been tended to then maybe the services of a qualified diesel specialist may be required to properly check the fuel injectors, injection timing, cylinder compression and fuel deivery is up to spec. Any cold starting problems will be down to faulty glow plugs, easily fixed.
Dont expect great strokes in performance from an old Landrover diesel, they are very basic and "low tech" versions of the breed but extremely reliable and honest workers, and that's all that is required to do the job.
 
Is there anything specifically wrong with it?

Like I said, the type of smoke (and there will be some) usually gives the game away on issues.

The pump can be rotated to improve things but often the timing chain has worn enough so the pump cant be adjusted enough. Not worth messing with until tappets are spot on and clean airless fuel is guaranteed.
Once the timing is tweaked its down to injectors and finally pump overhaul but thats the last thing to look at.
 
Thanks folks! I'll find out tomorrow when she arrives exactly what the situation is. It may be the seller mistook the standard smokeyness of the diesel as being a potential issue, I really don't know. I'll look her over and report back! I'd read somewhere you can adjust the injector pump timing, so was wondering about that.

All great advice and many thanks!! If the body and chassis is solid I may just put a petrol in it. I like petrols. Then again I may fall in love with a reliable diesel! I'm not planning on racing it!!
 
Once set up the diesel is purdy bomb proof and very reliable.
They’ll be a list of people along with it’s shortcomings as they have an extra two miles an hour up hill with their petrol engine but there is very little difference.
There is adjustment in the pump. Just not a lot. The knack is turning it half a mm then re trying. A pain but well worth repeating a few dozen times until right. White smoke is removable. Black smoke can be much harder to deal with.
 


What do you guys make of the smoke colour?

She starts and runs well, like a tractor, and all the electrics WORK! I can't believe it! Now will it pass an MOT.......HMMMMM
 
I have the 2.5na so very similar. Give it a good service and adjust tappets as advised above. I’m sure you can get timing pins to set th3 pump to spec position. Mine is always a bit rough after sitting a week or two, if you give it plenty of use for a while with decent clean diesel it should start to feel much better.

When first acquired I thought my engine was pretty healthy until I went off-roading. I practiced a failed hill climb where you stall it on the steep hill and the engine compression holds you still, whereas mine rolled backwards to the bottom despite being in 2nd gear. Worn bores and piston rings was the issue.

Your smokeyness could be old diesel gummed up in the injectors and pump but see how u get on with the cheap stuff first.
 
Looks like white/grey smoke to me? Unburnt diesel?

Good servicing and see how u do. Previous owner may have twisted the pump to over fuel slightly in a bid for more power, but that’s usually black smoke.
 
I've got one question...

When filling the tank with clean fuel, it over flowed and ran down outside of tank onto floor, I.e not out via the filler pipe. Does that indicate hose is split/detached or is there a "normal" over flow hole in there somewhere? How the heck do I get to the fuel hose to tank? Looks well hidden!
 
Fuel shunt come out at all. Possible culprits will be under drivers seat. One big filler pipe attaches to the tank plus an overflow. Then there are the feed and return pipes and the sender unit to the gauge. Any one of them could be leaking but pop the seat out, remove the tin cover and all are there in front of you to check.

Oh and that aint smoking FFS. :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::p
 
Longstride said:
I've got one question...

When filling the tank with clean fuel, it over flowed and ran down outside of tank onto floor, I.e not out via the filler pipe. Does that indicate hose is split/detached or is there a "normal" over flow hole in there somewhere? How the heck do I get to the fuel hose to tank? Looks well hidden!
Click to expand...
That's not a bad looking unit you have there, bit of white smoke but not looking chronic, looks like some minor service/attention will sort it.
The tank maybe accessible under the seat box, I know my mates 2A and Series 1 access to top of fuel tanks is remove a plate from top of seat box, think it may even be on a hinge, @Bobsticle will know for sure. Don't think the tank overflow should be from somewhere on top/side of the tank, that could be down to a broken/disconnected fuel or vent line, it's not normal to have overflow fuel happening whilst you blithely put fuel in the filler neck, the fuel station driveways would be awash with diesel.
 
Mine used to leak when I filled it. It was the rubber hose connecting the filler tube to the tank, the big jubilee clips where a tad loose. A couple of minutes with a big screwdriver sorted it.

Col
 
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