RX8 Seats into early/military Defender/Series

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v8250

v8250

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Dear All, as a share for those fitting RX8 seats...this morning, drilled and ground off all the mounting plates and superfluous guff from the RX8 seat bases - advisory, be sure to wrap your rails and seats before drilling begins. This is to stop the swarf...and there's a lot of swarf...from getting into the rails and sticking to the rail grease + into seat crevices + sticking to the electric motors. Ask me how I know :rolleyes:

+ I've had a major brain wave...

All the seat riser manufacturers state their risers do not fit early/military Defenders/late Series buses. This is because some frame/rail mountings are of the twin screw per end type. Whilst pondering naval post lunch I had a eureka moment...all that's needed is the following:

  1. Buy your preferred later seat rail risers
  2. Locate risers, centre punch and drill the centre line between the two existing seat rail screw holes
  3. Buy 8off 120mm x 40mm x5mm or 1m length of 120mm x 40mm x5mm alloy plate - this is used as seat box strengthener/s
  4. centreline drill the seat riser holes into the alloy plate and secure riser through seat box and plate - here you'll need longer nuts & bolts than supplied
  5. once fitted and lined up, drill through one or both of the original seat box holes and secure with another nut & bolt set
  6. rinse and repeat 1-5 for all four risers :)
I'm sure someone's discovered this before but it make for a proper/structurally secure install.

I've ordered the 1m alloy plate £28 from eBay plus the 2x MUD seat risers. I'll post pics with a before/during/after once done.
 
@P38, have finally started the install this w/e.
  • as per this existing RX8 seat install https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...ns-for-fitting-mazda-rx8-seats-needed.289854/ I've opted for using the 3rd hole inwards on the MUD seat rails
  • the rear seat rail to MUD rail positions perfectly @ 165mm inbound from the MUD rail rear threaded hole edge -to- to be drilled centreline @ 8.5mm dia' [this to give a little wiggle room] - [note, the front rear hole-to-hole length is 440mm centre-to-centre].
20210501_130535.jpg

  • next was to cut/make up the 8x 125x40x5mm alloy plates - here, I used the existing outer four LR rail holes to locate alloy plates under the seat box [they provide a very strong mechanical base]
  • next I offered up the passenger seat with MUD rails attached to correctly locate the seat to ensure 1. it does not clash with the door inner, 2. to give ease of access to the seat side adjuster, and 3. to ensure the seat belts are easily accessible [have seen many LR's with RX8 seats where the seats have been installed too close to the doors]
  • once lined up, I drilled an 8.5mm hole exactly centre of the two existing holes of the inbound seat rail...then, measured off the width of the seat base...this is precisely 430mm...and drilled the 8.5mm holes for the outer seat rail, through both the seat box and alloy support plates
  • then offered up the complete assembly for checking - this is current status...

20210502_170905.jpg
 
To add, have decided how I'm going to complete electrical install/ordered components this morning...

Driver Seat Motors - 1no 40A relay + inline 30A fuse + correct cable rating
Driver Seat Heater - 1no 40A relay + inline 20A fuse + correct cable rating
Passenger Seat Heater - 1no 40A relay + inline 20A fuse + correct cable rating

  1. have chosen 3no 40A relays as this simplifies relay types should a relay fail :. easy for fail test changeover
  2. will install individual seat heater switches to the centre cubby box front
  3. will install all wiring inside of cubby box to keep out of way/dry + with easy access, and will use a 6way fuse box...this giving easy option for any future accessories
  4. wiring wise...I'll be removing the RX8 connectors, replacing with std Male auto jobbies - from the Female connector to the relays will be one continuous cable, giving a clean/single cable run that will route from rear lower of seat along the seat box rear 'lip' - the cable to be attached with rubbered st/st P Clips attached to the existing seat box lip bolts.

I'll post more pics once install is complete
 
flat said:
Huh cool, can you still access the battery the normal way?
Click to expand...

Hi Flat, no :(

With seat max' forward there's access but not enough for battery replacement/service. However...I have a plan!! :D Took a close look at this and will fit steel Rivnuts to the 4no MUD rail holes - the still gives a mechanically correct/structurally strong install + means only having to unscrew 4no 10.9 rail screws [which takes only a few minutes] to remove the battery - for me, this is no great shakes.

I did think of designing a quick release pin type install but this would not be ideal in an emergency + would be detrimental to the rails vertical sides [side wall compression strength is most important and MUD rails have been safety tested/fitting a quick release function would nullify the safety data]

As above, will post pics when done...
 
+++ be sure to inspect the RX8 tin seat bases...by Jove, they rust. The driver side base had no rust...gave this a good cover of grease to ensure longevity, However, the passenger side had light rust to lower face and once removed the inner face was covered in ~60% light/very fine powdered rust :mad: So buzzed back both sides, cleaned, degreased, zinc primed and two light coats of the ubiquitous Underhood Black :)

Upper Face:
20210428_153807.jpg


Lower Face:
20210428_153838.jpg
 
Last edited:
A final note today - trial parked the derriere in the passenger seat yesterday...they're very comfortable seats and fit perfectly in a Land Rover. I'm only 6ft tall/34" inside leg and there's a distinct improvement in seating position and seating adjustment, this even with the standard rear bulkhead. Am looking forward to testing the hemorrhoid heaters this coming winter...;)
 
This is good timing! I bought a set today after driving around a k in the defender last week I thought fcuk this I’m on a comfort mission! I bought that, more silentcoat, some carpet for the headlining and a clip on fan to clip onto the grab handle. Gunna get one to go on the dog guard too if decent
 
v8250 said:
To add, have decided how I'm going to complete electrical install/ordered components this morning...

Driver Seat Motors - 1no 40A relay + inline 30A fuse + correct cable rating
Driver Seat Heater - 1no 40A relay + inline 20A fuse + correct cable rating
Passenger Seat Heater - 1no 40A relay + inline 20A fuse + correct cable rating

  1. have chosen 3no 40A relays as this simplifies relay types should a relay fail :. easy for fail test changeover
  2. will install individual seat heater switches to the centre cubby box front
  3. will install all wiring inside of cubby box to keep out of way/dry + with easy access, and will use a 6way fuse box...this giving easy option for any future accessories
  4. wiring wise...I'll be removing the RX8 connectors, replacing with std Male auto jobbies - from the Female connector to the relays will be one continuous cable, giving a clean/single cable run that will route from rear lower of seat along the seat box rear 'lip' - the cable to be attached with rubbered st/st P Clips attached to the existing seat box lip bolts.

I'll post more pics once install is complete
Click to expand...

cheers - look forward to seeing this as it’s my weak point. If you could dumb it down and grab pics it would be really helpful! Thanks! I understand how relays, external fuse boxes etc work just not massively confident in wiring installs as it quickly confuses me!
 
v8250 said:
Hi Flat, no :(

With seat max' forward there's access but not enough for battery replacement/service. However...I have a plan!! :D Took a close look at this and will fit steel Rivnuts to the 4no MUD rail holes - the still gives a mechanically correct/structurally strong install + means only having to unscrew 4no 10.9 rail screws [which takes only a few minutes] to remove the battery - for me, this is no great shakes.

I did think of designing a quick release pin type install but this would not be ideal in an emergency + would be detrimental to the rails vertical sides [side wall compression strength is most important and MUD rails have been safety tested/fitting a quick release function would nullify the safety data]

As above, will post pics when done...
Click to expand...

You could remove two rear squab bolts and make the front one wing bolts/thumb screws
 
v8250 said:
To add, have decided how I'm going to complete electrical install/ordered components this morning...

Driver Seat Motors - 1no 40A relay + inline 30A fuse + correct cable rating
Driver Seat Heater - 1no 40A relay + inline 20A fuse + correct cable rating
Passenger Seat Heater - 1no 40A relay + inline 20A fuse + correct cable rating

  1. have chosen 3no 40A relays as this simplifies relay types should a relay fail :. easy for fail test changeover
  2. will install individual seat heater switches to the centre cubby box front
  3. will install all wiring inside of cubby box to keep out of way/dry + with easy access, and will use a 6way fuse box...this giving easy option for any future accessories
  4. wiring wise...I'll be removing the RX8 connectors, replacing with std Male auto jobbies - from the Female connector to the relays will be one continuous cable, giving a clean/single cable run that will route from rear lower of seat along the seat box rear 'lip' - the cable to be attached with rubbered st/st P Clips attached to the existing seat box lip bolts.

I'll post more pics once install is complete
Click to expand...
I have the same seats I am about to install. I cut the cable to the air bag last night and hoped to remove it completely, but decided to just leave it in as it’s inert now anyway. I hope it is anyway :confused:
Can you post pictures and post on the drivers seat wiring as I have no clue how to go about this ??
 
@meego , yes, of course. To date wiring is as follows:

  1. As you, cut out yellow airbag wiring and left in airbags. This is perfectly safe to do...and if for any reason they were to go 'pop', they go pop.
  2. Have removed the original connectors and fitted new separate connector to each driver and passenger seat function - this to enable quick removal should I ever need to remove the seats in the future.
  3. Extended 27A and 30A wiring from the seats with spiral wrap to the cubby box area in prep' for final cct connections.
  4. **using my battery charger which has a 12v/10A 'power supply' function I pre-tested all/both seat functions at new wiring tail ends to ensure no wiring errors.
  5. Extended 4no 30A wires with spiral wrap from separate 8mm battery terminal connectors to cubby box area in prep' for final +12v supply connections - here it's important to run separate connections 1] for futureproof fault finding, and 2] it's not best to share power wires even though it would be rare for wire overload i.e. seat motors on at the same time as heated seats. And it's easy to run 4no wires.
  6. the drivers seat is in and fixed + had already installed the passenger seat for trial fitting, then removed as I'll need this access for final wiring to fuse box & relay install.
Now just waiting for the alloy plate to arrive to install fuse box and relays to inner-rear wall of cubby box. I'll post up pics when install complete...:)

Notes:
  1. The alloy under plates work very well, but did not use on the driver side outer rear - this is from lack of space between the seat box and fuel tank.
  2. when drilling for the driver side outer rear seat rail hole, a metal protection plate must be used in case of accidentally drilling straight through the petrol tank!! :eek:
  3. have thought through the heated switch options - will install 2no Carling's with 'heated seat' logo https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products...heated-seat-right?_pos=1&_sid=05c87d7b0&_ss=r
eta : have just founds these with bright green 'ON' window - I like this idea so as to not accidentally leave the heated seats on when not needed https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carling-...le-stage-off-on-Land-Rover-spec-/372689869387
 
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