Rustproofing/waxoyl

lightning · Jul 25, 2019

So, my 110 was “waxoyled” in 2014 when l bought it (although l don’t know exactly what product was used)
The chassis was very clean with only light surface rust.
The coating is coming off in places after five years do l looked at having it done again.
However
A/ there’s about an inch of dry mud/dirt in all the inaccessible places of the rear crossmember particularly

B/ if you scrape off the coating there’s rust underneath in places (not serious corrosion yet fortunately but it seems the underseal is not stopping the rust)
In fact it looks to be the rust that’s causing the coating to come off!!

So what’s the best thing to do with it? I had booked it in to get it “waxoyled” but cancelled it as there’s no point spraying over the old coating, caked on dirt, and surface rust.

I would imagine the best thing would be to steam clean the entire chassis and then re treat it with one of the German products that everyone raves about.

Anybody know somewhere in Cheshire that can do this? The only place l can find that offers the full service is the guy down south who has a full page advert in the LR magazines, l would take it to him but he gets mixed reviews. (And that’s being kind)

bankz5152 · Jul 25, 2019

Buzzweld. Depending on how much you want to spend they will sort it.

Also have agents over the UK.

Ignore the landymag fella - he used a post of mine on here as a negative review, without premision (which i edited to include his poor reviews)

Henry_b · Jul 25, 2019

underseal protects good metal it won't help oxidised metal.

scrape or pressure wash the dirt off. Kurust or similar then paint.

On my corroded D2 chassis I Kurusted 3 coats, then waxoyled on top which was then followed up with the underseal.
Should be good for a while.

My Rust free P38 chassis was Zinc primed then Undersealed.

All hammerite.

lynall · Jul 25, 2019

Whatever you use, if its wax based it wont last forever and needs topping up bi annually.

Knappster · Jul 25, 2019

My old disco had the chassis dinitrol’d. It lasted the four years before showing any signs of needing a further application.

Discodevon · Jul 25, 2019

Hi lightening, wash off the underside as you mentioned, let it dry out for a few days at least, and use a compressor and suitable gun to apply gear oil everywhere, I can recommend John Deere hyguard as it’s thin to spray but stick like poo poo to a blanket! Oil really soaks into rust and stops it in its tracks but you would need to re apply every year ideally, if you wanted a blackened finish you could always mix in some black waxoyl... waxoyl is good but as mentioned previously it does dry out eventually and any moisture underneath will just get trapped and do more harm than good... Looking forward to doing mine within the next couple of months!

I forgot to mention look into vacuuming out the rear of your chassis, I have done it twice this year on mine, and you would be amazed what comes out

Blaven · Jul 25, 2019

Gave mine a dose of Dinitrol last year. For the whole vehicle cost between £3-400. Took 3 days and very impressed. Took photos of my truck before and after which they give you as an album. They pressure wash it first, dry it and then weave their magic.

frog hopper · Jul 25, 2019

I'm currently working on my 90's chassis, what I've done is take off the rear bodywork to get good access to everything. Alright, I'm doing other work at the same time but as far as rustproofing is concerned this is what I am doing.
I used a blowtorch and scaper to get off the worst of the useless underseal/paint.
Used a selection of wire brushes in my angle grinder and drill and also hand brushes. Then 40 grit flap wheels, anything that survived that was left on.
Blow off the dust, wipe down with a bar towel and acetone.
Give a good coat of Corroless etching-rust neutralising primer.
2 coats of agricultral chassis paint.
When I've done I shall jubilee clip a bit of copper to a hose pipe and stuff that up the chassis legs etc and just leave on full bore for a while to get as much sand/mud out as I can, leave for a few weeks to dry and then use Dinitrol cavity wax.
Should have washed out the chassis first really, just didn't think it would be so bad.
I'm making a big job of it, but after it's done it should be right for the next decade, obviously top up the cavity treatment.

lightning · Jul 27, 2019

It’s no wonder the crossmember rusts out when you look at all the mud traps in it, and the rear chassis too...it fills with muck over time which never dries out.

I have bought some plastic liners that fit in front of the crossmember and stop mud being sprayed into it, which should help a bit.

Discodevon · Jul 27, 2019

lightning said:
It’s no wonder the crossmember rusts our when you look at all the mud traps in it, and the rear chassis too...it fills with muck over time which never dries out.

I have bought some plastic liners that fit in front of the crossmember and stop mud being sprayed into it, which should help a bit.

Discodevon · Jul 27, 2019

That’s what come out the rear end of mine after a hoover

K14 · Aug 5, 2019

i had the body off my 110 csw a few years ago and gave it a good clean scrape and waxoyl. since then i just do the areas that require attention every 2 years. the main area that gets attention is between the chassis rails under the second row seats. i wouldnt leave it for 4 odd years. if you think about driving down a country road in winter at 50mph, its like grit blasting the under side of your car.

Rustproofing/waxoyl

lightning

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bankz5152

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Henry_b

Think outside, no box required.

lynall

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Knappster

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Discodevon

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Blaven

Active Member

frog hopper

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lightning

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Discodevon

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Discodevon

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K14

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