I think the so called "professionals" supposedly use heaters or ovens so they can get it done in a day.
Rust proofing begins today
- Thread starter ldrego
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
I think the so called "professionals" supposedly use heaters or ovens so they can get it done in a day.
So which dinitrol wax did you go for. I went for the ml3125 which is a thin penetrating spray. It does say it needs to be oversprayed too in areas of high wear. Interestingly even dinitrol say that it can only delay the onset if rust. Poor car.
Last edited:
So it is been a fee days since I painted the vactan on. An inspection of the area reveals that some areas that I have not scrubbed hard enough has chipped away exposing surface rust. All areas treated are really rough and do need painted over. I am holding out for another bottle of vactan to arrive and also to select the correct paint to cover the cured rust and the incurred bits. I am thinking gloss so that everything is nice and smooth. Also thinking a paint that reacts with rust and a pastel colour as opposed to the common silver or black. High temp exhaust and manifold spray has arrived.
So I have started painting the first layer of undercoat which is zinc 182. This is usually meant to be applied to bare metal however it can be applied over painted metal. The ability of any zinc paint is questionable as a rust proofing element as the carrier used may not allow conductivity anyway. One good thing about this grey paint is that you can see what you have not painted.
Incidentally, this painting takes ages to do and a cross hatch painting style seems to work the best and also destroys paintbrushes. Hope this is helping someone!
Incidentally, this painting takes ages to do and a cross hatch painting style seems to work the best and also destroys paintbrushes. Hope this is helping someone!
Incidentally to clean out the chassis rails, I ran a pressure washer through them and then fed a hose pipe through. Whole load of crap removed from there and now hoping to finish off the zinc 182 painting. I am not sure wether to run a second coat as this may decrease the adhesion of the next layer of paint. Going to leave this layer to cure for at least 5 days.
So essentially there s just so much metal to paint that I am thinki I will never get this finished. 1 tin of paint has completed 3/4 of the car but i have come across another failed box section. There are also sections that I just can't get to with a paint brush and I am using a zinc spray for these areas. I think I will paint the chassis now with the next paint type, thinking of an enamel spray at the moment.
Just a little addition. I almost forgot to seal of the seams that are exposed with a seal seamer. Definitely worth doing otherwise the rust will just go between the metal. Also I have spent most of my time on the middle to back sections were there is little oil and heat. I imagine that this is the are that rusts the most. Correct me if I am wrong... I may be destroying this vehicle!
- Posts
- 29
- Location
- Bristol, Yate
Im not sure of the rules on the site, but someone else has mentioned it, or the web page. CCI. This will go where a paint brush or waxoil wont. I don't believe i can publish/tell you where to get it though, due to site rules? where do i find out site rules?
Thanks a million for that I will try and look up CCI. I am getting there slowly but the one thing to note is that the is a labour of love and a learning experience too.
is that dinitrol? I have got that ready to go but need to get all the eternal stuff paint first. Well that is the plan anyway.
GDM
Active Member
- Posts
- 205
- Location
- West Sussex
All the Dinitrol stuff is really good, far better than Waxoyl.
I wire brushed the chassis on our TD5, then treated it with a rust converter. Then I sprayed the chassis inside and out with 3125 and then just the outside with their black 4941 wax. I used a compressor but these are available in aerosols.
It has been on there for about 15 months now and still looks really good. I just wish I had done it when we got the car in 2007, it would have been far less work.
- Posts
- 29
- Location
- Bristol, Yate
No cci is definetly not dinitrol.
You have layers, and people will debate who belongs where.
Waxoil/ hammerite> dinitrol> rustoleum/POR/corroless.
Dinitrol is in the grand scheme of things cheap paint. Better than waxoiling, but your still looking at a product that is cheap, and cheap for a reason.
You can often tell where corners have been cut by how many other coatings, extra prep, or products you have to buy to go with it to get it to work in their "recommended" application.
You have layers, and people will debate who belongs where.
Waxoil/ hammerite> dinitrol> rustoleum/POR/corroless.
Dinitrol is in the grand scheme of things cheap paint. Better than waxoiling, but your still looking at a product that is cheap, and cheap for a reason.
You can often tell where corners have been cut by how many other coatings, extra prep, or products you have to buy to go with it to get it to work in their "recommended" application.
Last edited:
Thanks for taking the time to answer that question. As you can see, I am just trying things out on this chassis and it is a great learning curve and opportunity for me. My thoughts are so far that nothing can stop the rust from progressing internally however, you can seriously reduce the progression on the visible components (assuming not a chassis off job). Is CCI really as good as you say?
Sorry for being so blunt but there are so many views on rust proofing.
So I ordered corroless primer and I am going to use it on the front half of the chassis plus some unpaired bits on the rear chassis. This is going to be an interesting test I think. Will wZit until the stuff arrives to decide what kind of preparation is required. The front of the engine is greasiest so may have to steam Caen things first, or do I with this paint?
Corroless has arrived but so has another tine of Zinc 182. Back to the rear end of the car and painting over the bits I missed. It is impossible to get it all but one think I notice is that using the grey paint makes it easier to see hidden away bits. Still realise that it is impossible to do an amazing job unless you have the chassis by itself. Going through paint brushes like mad but at only 50p a pop, not too bad.
Also interesting to say that the grey paint also allows you to see where things have chaffed off which makes it easier to repair too. Chassis is definitely getting painted silver when I have finished. Only reason to paint it black would be to hide things.
Also interesting to say that the grey paint also allows you to see where things have chaffed off which makes it easier to repair too. Chassis is definitely getting painted silver when I have finished. Only reason to paint it black would be to hide things.
3 months have passed since my last post. It's been a sudden stop to my progress but back on. The zinc paint has stayed on but will need to be rubbed down now as it has been on there so long. I am having to repair more rusts sections which I will do myself. My thoughts are it is worth while biting the bullet and learning how to weld as it is an uphill struggle to keep rust at bay.
Both side box sections have corroded away but,only the floor bits so I am going to go in there and paint them whilst they are visible.
Both side box sections have corroded away but,only the floor bits so I am going to go in there and paint them whilst they are visible.
markomate2
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 899
- Location
- Bedford and Tallinn
Slightly off topic, one of the ways that hollow sections/sill/chassis etc can be protected, ideally from new, is to use expanding PU foam.
Its a very well trodden path in the automotive industry, in fact for a while in the 1960,s Austin Minis had foam injected into their sills, it was in an effort to stop leaks, but the side effects were, huge increase in torsion resistance, made the whole structure stiffer, and years later when Austin recovered some these cars and cut the sills open, they had NO corrosion inside them!
There are plenty of papers on line giving more info.
If the chassis was very clean and dry inside its something that could be worth doing, you would just have to ensure all the cavities were filled.
It certainly sounds like it couldnt make it any worse!
Mark
Its a very well trodden path in the automotive industry, in fact for a while in the 1960,s Austin Minis had foam injected into their sills, it was in an effort to stop leaks, but the side effects were, huge increase in torsion resistance, made the whole structure stiffer, and years later when Austin recovered some these cars and cut the sills open, they had NO corrosion inside them!
There are plenty of papers on line giving more info.
If the chassis was very clean and dry inside its something that could be worth doing, you would just have to ensure all the cavities were filled.
It certainly sounds like it couldnt make it any worse!
Mark
I would. Be worried about welding near Any sections carrying foam or about fire in a crash.
markomate2
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 899
- Location
- Bedford and Tallinn
I guess rust wouldnt be an issue if it was done from new, so hopefully no welding, unless its being modified.
According to the papers I read its already very common to foam inject A pillars and other cavities.
With all the flamable stuff in a car already it probably wouldnt add to it and it would be in an enclosed space.
Anyway all just a theory on my part for putting it into a chassis!
Mark
According to the papers I read its already very common to foam inject A pillars and other cavities.
With all the flamable stuff in a car already it probably wouldnt add to it and it would be in an enclosed space.
Anyway all just a theory on my part for putting it into a chassis!
Mark
Similar threads
Freelander 2 (LR2)
Advice Needed - Rust Issues
