Rust Proofing any ideas?
- Thread starter mikejoz85
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A 50/50 mixture of old engine oil and paraffin. Sprayed on with a paraffin gun.
Dr_evil
Banned
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yes.
nicedayforit
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It certainly does work.
Kept my disco going for 17.5 years before I sold it, almost no rust on the car.
Kept my disco going for 17.5 years before I sold it, almost no rust on the car.
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- Preston Lancs.
look at most rrc's...rusty as **** at the rear and where no old oil gets to..
solid as a solid thing where the engine and gearbox ****es out onto...
better than any wax based treatment...i squrt it on every engine oil change..dont believe people who say the acids in the oil attack the metal,yes they should,but never seen any harm done..
note rather messy cover brake discs up..(and dont park it on nice clean drive straight after!)
solid as a solid thing where the engine and gearbox ****es out onto...
better than any wax based treatment...i squrt it on every engine oil change..dont believe people who say the acids in the oil attack the metal,yes they should,but never seen any harm done..
note rather messy cover brake discs up..(and dont park it on nice clean drive straight after!)
polsta
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have a read of this
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/chassis-undersealing-165983.html
after im done with the paintng, its going to be waxoyled in all the caveties, then its all soid and protected
whats the oil/parafin mix like when power jet cleaning the chassis ? does it all come off
but - it would all come down to how your chassis is at the moment ? is it all nice and painted and in good condition , or very flakey and rusty etc and in need of a good refurb as opposed to some winter protection ?
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/chassis-undersealing-165983.html
after im done with the paintng, its going to be waxoyled in all the caveties, then its all soid and protected
whats the oil/parafin mix like when power jet cleaning the chassis ? does it all come off
but - it would all come down to how your chassis is at the moment ? is it all nice and painted and in good condition , or very flakey and rusty etc and in need of a good refurb as opposed to some winter protection ?
yeah it does sound like a plan there but how do i go about it i dont have a parafin gun or anything like it, but seriously need it doing anytime really soon lol dont fancy doing it in the snow thats coming soon please could someone give me a step by step guide please i am a newbie after all and to rangies too lol
polsta
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1st thing like i said above...is to examine your chassis , clean it with a power jet and wire brush it etc to remove any gunk/dirt/flakey rust
power jet
a plastic scraper of some sort
wire brush
power jet
and get it all clean and nice and bare, and then depending on the state of it, is what you do next and what to use
power jet
a plastic scraper of some sort
wire brush
power jet
and get it all clean and nice and bare, and then depending on the state of it, is what you do next and what to use
Davie F
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Give it a good blast with a power hose, let it stand for 24 hours then get under it with a schuts gun and waxoil. don,t know about the parrafin/oil mix in this day of enviromental friendly.
Davie
Davie
polsta
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you need to clean and have a good look 1st, to determine if you 1st need rust treatment, then painting, then rust prevention/protection ie if its rusty you cant just wack a load of stuff on top and thats it...
norseman
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mikejoz85 dont fancy doing it in the snow thats coming soon :D:D[/quote said:Been collecting seaweed? or listening to those that have a vested interest ie electrical outlets
Last edited:
Been collecting seaweed? or listening to those that have a vested interest ie electrical outlets
true..
diy parafin gun is from wickes etc garden sprayer,hand pump up.holds a gallon,works fine..squirt in all the holes in chassis,sills etc..(no i dont mean rust holes)
oh...do this as often as you like..more the better..its an on going battle to keep rust away..leave it and it will rust.
as mentioned earlier by someone, it was standard practice many moons ago - certainly was in my dads garage back in the 70's / early 80's.
Some garages mind get pi$$ed when having to MOT an oily mess too now, and I have heard (donbt know anyone though) that some garages insist on it getting jet washed before hand if too bad "so they can inspect" it propoerly apparently was what I heard.
That said the same would apply if you put rust proofer on.
Finally waxoil - craps stuff. Buy some good stuff Dinitrol if you want the proper stuff - its waht I use on my Stag and E type in the cavities too and it really is good stuff. Cost of dinitrol against 4 hours garage labour for welding / repairs - dinitrol will win all the time and they have a protection system designed to spray direct onto rusty metal as it stabilises / converts and protects all at the same time. I dont work for dinitrol either.
Some garages mind get pi$$ed when having to MOT an oily mess too now, and I have heard (donbt know anyone though) that some garages insist on it getting jet washed before hand if too bad "so they can inspect" it propoerly apparently was what I heard.
That said the same would apply if you put rust proofer on.
Finally waxoil - craps stuff. Buy some good stuff Dinitrol if you want the proper stuff - its waht I use on my Stag and E type in the cavities too and it really is good stuff. Cost of dinitrol against 4 hours garage labour for welding / repairs - dinitrol will win all the time and they have a protection system designed to spray direct onto rusty metal as it stabilises / converts and protects all at the same time. I dont work for dinitrol either.
norseman
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I have the sales literature & price lists for my '87 Vogue auto & the car cost in excess of £22k when new
For that money you would think LR could throw in a better level of rust protection.
